Spa pump going bad?

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JDinVT

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Feb 9, 2024
11
VT
I have an old image spa I think circa 2003. Pump keeps getting air locked or so I think....could this be a sign the 20 year old pump is dying?

The pump turns on and then shuts off in ten second intervals progressively getting longer.

To fix I have loosened couplings and purged air a few times and it happens again in a few days. When I have purged i do not feel that I heard or saw and air burp out.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 
RDspaguy said:
Any errors on the display?
Post pics of the equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.
Remove filter and raise water level.
Click to expand...
No errors on the display. I have removed the filter and raised the water and it happened again which prompted the post here.

I don't have any photos at the moment but It has balboa control box. I replaced the board in 2020 with same which was a Balboa Circuit Board ICON15 #54446
4kw heater. Xp2 pump. Replaced heating element in 2015. Wet end at the same time(it froze while the heater was down).

Thanks for any help. I will try and get a picture when it happens again!
 
Congrats on the 20 years of service. Is it a US motor? Wish they still made them that way.

I'm not sure the motor is the issue. Do you hear the relay shift state when it stalls and restarts?
 
bradgray said:
Congrats on the 20 years of service. Is it a US motor? Wish they still made them that way.

I'm not sure the motor is the issue. Do you hear the relay shift state when it stalls and restarts?
Click to expand...
It's an Emerson Motor # T55CXBMM-986. I believe it said made in Ohio.

I'm not sure 100%, I believe I did hear a click when it was cycling off an on. I honestly felt I smelled electrical when it was doing it and I had the cabinet open.

The first time this happened and when the motor was between cycles, in the dead space, I pressed the jet button and popped a fuse on the circuit board.

Not sure if that indicates anything.
 
JDinVT said:
No errors on the display.
Click to expand...
None at all?
Ok. We need to determine if it is switching off at the board or in the motor. You will do this by testing voltage to the motor during a shutdown. If it still has voltage (black to white for low speed) then it's in the motor, if not it's a control issue.
This requires testing of live electrical circuits. If you are not comfortable with that you should call a professional.
 
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RDspaguy said:
None at all?
Ok. We need to determine if it is switching off at the board or in the motor. You will do this by testing voltage to the motor during a shutdown. If it still has voltage (black to white for low speed) then it's in the motor, if not it's a control issue.
This requires testing of live electrical circuits. If you are not comfortable with that you
Click to expand...

RDspaguy said:
None at all?
Ok. We need to determine if it is switching off at the board or in the motor. You will do this by testing voltage to the motor during a shutdown. If it still has voltage (black to white for low speed) then it's in the motor, if not it's a control issue.
This requires testing of live electrical circuits. If you are not comfortable with that you should call a professional.
Click to expand...
Okay. I have a multimeter and have tested the output from the board with the pump unplugged. The pump reads 120v from from low speed to ground and high speed to ground when I cycle the speed on the control panel.

You are suggesting testing with the pump plugged into the board and getting readings from the back of the motor connections while the pump cycles?

I just want to make sure what or where I need to read from. Thanks!
 
JDinVT said:
The pump reads 120v from from low speed to ground and high speed to ground when I cycle the speed on the control panel.
Click to expand...
You must test to common on the pump not ground.


JDinVT said:
You are suggesting testing with the pump plugged into the board and getting readings from the back of the motor connections while the pump cycles?
Click to expand...
You need to test it when it is mafunctioning, which means it will be plugged in. You can test that the low/high relays are working without the motor, but it could be something else on the control side.
It's probably the pump motor, but I don't spend money on probably.
 
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RDspaguy said:
You must test to common on the pump not ground.



You need to test it when it is mafunctioning, which means it will be plugged in. You can test that the low/high relays are working without the motor, but it could be something else on the control side.
It's probably the pump motor, but I don't spend money on probably.
Click to expand...
Alright I have the pump malfunctioning again after I topped off the water a few days ago...if it's air it's stubborn, I tried ten ways to Sunday to get the air out.

Pictures of setup below. I assume if I remove the black cover on the end of the pump I can see where the wires attach to the motor for testing.
 

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I am starting to suspect the slice valve is bad on the pump side and perhaps isn't open all the way?

Are there any indicators that could confirm this without draining the tub completey? (It's 10 degrees out right now!)

I also want to add there appear to be some piece of rubber possibly that have appeared in the tub.
 

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Finally got a test on the pump side of the control pack with the pump cycling. Low to neutral reads 228-230v for the few seconds until it cycles off and then when off reads 000v.

Bad pump? Getting the juice but to tired to push enough water?
 
RDspaguy said:
It could be a suction-side slice valve. They are known for sticking on older tubs. Sometimes the handle pulls out of the top.
You can also test at the pump plug on the board.
Click to expand...

Mr RD. I did get test on the pump side of the control pack with the pump in the run condition. Low to neutral reads 228-230v during the cycle and then zero when it cycles off. Time for a new pump?
 
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