I put in 231 oz per the pool math app recommendation.
That's almost two gallons. Don't add that much all at once.

Add enough to change the pH by 0.4. Wait at least 30 minutes, test again, add more if necessary. What's you current pH? What were you targeting with PoolMath?
 
I was also going to mention that your FC is kind of low, someone beat me to it!

Something that's wasn't mentioned is liquid chlorine and regular household bleach are the same except bleach is at a lower concentration. You can use regular unscented bleach and do not use splashless bleach. I say this because it's the end of the season at a HD or Walmart in a lot of areas and liquid chlorine may not be available. For some reason the HD by me only had full strength "pool" MA, there was none in the painting area.

I used mainly bleach with our last pool but did use trichlor pucks when we went on vacation. The TFP process works, our pool always looked great!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager
That's almost two gallons. Don't add that much all at once.

Add enough to change the pH by 0.4. Wait at least 30 minutes, test again, add more if necessary. What's you current pH? What were you targeting with PoolMath?
My PH is at 8.2 right now. I already added the 231 oz, as that is what the pool math app said to do. So......we will see what the result is tomorrow! It has been very stubborn this year, so hopefully it will have the right impact!
 
Are you using the FAS-DPD test (powder and drops) or the OTO (color block) test? You should be using the FAS-DPD.


The only way to remove copper from your pool is draining, which is one of many reasons never to use copper products.


Correct.


No, do not add baking soda. Add muriatic acid to lower the pH. The MA will also lower your TA slightly.


Yes. For chlorination, all you need (or want) is LC.


Correct. Just maintain your FC at or above the target for your CYA.


Until you get your chemistry under control, daily checks of pH and FC are good. Once things are under control, you can test FC and pH a couple times a week. You'll dose LC almost every day.


Do some experimenting to determine the minimum RPM that still achieves your purposes. Many people (including myself) run their systems constantly at low RPM.


Yes.


What's the TA of your fill water? Any baking soda additions?

MA to lower your pH will reduce your TA over time. Use full strength 31.45% MA. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot.

Here's the best and safest method for adding MA: Adding Muriatic
I did both chlorine tests, the powder and the OTO, which is the number 3 I mentioned. The powder gives me the FC number, I think? It is at 2 so I added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine. I did the low and slow application of the MA. I guess I should not have added the entire amount at once, but too late now....it's in there! I need to check the TA of my fill water, but ran out of time today. When I get back to pool care tomorrow I will check that from both faucets. One is direct from the well and the other one runs through our softener system.
 
I was also going to mention that your FC is kind of low, someone beat me to it!

Something that's wasn't mentioned is liquid chlorine and regular household bleach are the same except bleach is at a lower concentration. You can use regular unscented bleach and do not use splashless bleach. I say this because it's the end of the season at a HD or Walmart in a lot of areas and liquid chlorine may not be available. For some reason the HD by me only had full strength "pool" MA, there was none in the painting area.

I used mainly bleach with our last pool but did use trichlor pucks when we went on vacation. The TFP process works, our pool always looked great!
I'm not exactly sure how the replies work here. I feel like I'm repeating myself, so I apologize if I am. I looked at Home Depot for liquid chlorine since I was there for the HDX muriatic acid. They didn't have anything so I looked at the liquid bleach and they only had "concentrated" Clorox, so I did a quick check on the forums here and decided against that because of some additives that are in the brand name. I ended up going to Leslie's pool supply and bought a case of their brand of liquid sanitizer. It was expensive! But I needed to get it into the pool so sucked it up and bought it anyway.
 
I did both chlorine tests, the powder and the OTO, which is the number 3 I mentioned. The powder gives me the FC number, I think? It is at 2 so I added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine. I did the low and slow application of the MA. I guess I should not have added the entire amount at once, but too late now....it's in there! I need to check the TA of my fill water, but ran out of time today. When I get back to pool care tomorrow I will check that from both faucets. One is direct from the well and the other one runs through our softener system.
Interestingly, after I used the little pods that remove copper my copper level which was very high came down to normal. I did used the pool store to test for that and purchase those little pod things! :)
 
Interestingly, after I used the little pods that remove copper my copper level which was very high came down to normal. I did used the pool store to test for that and purchase those little pod things! :)
The little pods were likely a Sequesterant - they are just “hiding” the copper (sequestering it) when they wear off - which they will, it will be back. To actually remove it you must replace the copper laden water.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager
I'm not exactly sure how the replies work here. I feel like I'm repeating myself, so I apologize if I am. I looked at Home Depot for liquid chlorine since I was there for the HDX muriatic acid. They didn't have anything so I looked at the liquid bleach and they only had "concentrated" Clorox, so I did a quick check on the forums here and decided against that because of some additives that are in the brand name. I ended up going to Leslie's pool supply and bought a case of their brand of liquid sanitizer. It was expensive! But I needed to get it into the pool so sucked it up and bought it anyway.
Sorry, not looking to be confusing! I tend to use Walmart brand bleach vs name brands because I have heard Clorox did/does add things to their bleach and it's less expensive. I think a non pool store can be hit or miss for pool stuff at certain times of the year. HD by me did have a pool area in the beginning of the summer and I did order my winter cover from them online but when I went for MA there was only about a dozen "pool" MA and their pool area consisted of pool salt that wasn't sold. I went to an ACE hardware store to get some oring lube because it was "in stock" and I got the last one. LOL! Sometimes we need to go to the correct store to get what we need.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager
My PH is at 8.2 right now.
After adding 231 oz of MA, it won't be. Check again. Keep your pH in the 7s. If your pH is below 7, you can aerate to speed up pH rise.

that is what the pool math app said to do
PoolMath is just a calculator. You need to think about the effects of adding chemicals and your desired outcomes, then use PoolMath to perform the calculations. Don't blindly follow what the app tells you.

I did both chlorine tests, the powder and the OTO
Use the FAS-DPD powder test. The OTO test isn't useful. It will tell you whether or not there's chlorine in the water, but that's about it.

I added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine
Don't add MA and LC at the same time. Wait about 30 minutes between adding them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager
I'm not exactly sure how the replies work here. I feel like I'm repeating myself, so I apologize if I am. I looked at Home Depot for liquid chlorine since I was there for the HDX muriatic acid. They didn't have anything so I looked at the liquid bleach and they only had "concentrated" Clorox, so I did a quick check on the forums here and decided against that because of some additives that are in the brand name. I ended up going to Leslie's pool supply and bought a case of their brand of liquid sanitizer. It was expensive! But I needed to get it into the pool so sucked it up and bought it anyway.
Do you have access to a Menards?

They have 31% Muratic Acid and a bonus it's not green. They also sell Liquid Bleach which is 12.5%. Bonus they are both cheap.


 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Okay, Now I am totally confused. I just tested the pool water again. NO chlorine! I added 2 gallons of fresh, brand new sanitizer from Leslie's Pool Supplies last night. HOW can there be zero today? PH did come down to 7.2 and TA down now to 100. CYA is 70. I also tested my faucets for TA and ph. On the faucet that is direct from the well TA is 360 and PH is 8.2. From the faucet that is in our garage and runs through the water softener TA is 390 and PH is 7.2. I'm just glad I'm not a chemist.....or maybe I'd understand it all better if I was! I'm assuming I should add 2+ gallons of liquid chlorine? I guess slamming is in my future, but we are going out of town this weekend. My son will be here to continue to add chlorine daily while we are gone. HELP! :eek:
 
Okay, Now I am totally confused. I just tested the pool water again. NO chlorine! I added 2 gallons of fresh, brand new sanitizer from Leslie's Pool Supplies last night. HOW can there be zero today? PH did come down to 7.2 and TA down now to 100. CYA is 70. I also tested my faucets for TA and ph. On the faucet that is direct from the well TA is 360 and PH is 8.2. From the faucet that is in our garage and runs through the water softener TA is 390 and PH is 7.2. I'm just glad I'm not a chemist.....or maybe I'd understand it all better if I was! I'm assuming I should add 2+ gallons of liquid chlorine? I guess slamming is in my future, but we are going out of town this weekend. My son will be here to continue to add chlorine daily while we are gone. HELP! :eek:
Oh I should add that the 231oz of muriatic acid was added, hence the drop in the TA and PH. Will that continue to drop more? I was told I should not have added it all at once, but since I already did, how long will the impact last in lowering it?
 
Oh I should add that the 231oz of muriatic acid was added, hence the drop in the TA and PH. Will that continue to drop more? I was told I should not have added it all at once, but since I already did, how long will the impact last in lowering it?
What’s done is done- 7.2 is ok but u never want to lower ph to less than 7. You have a large pool with 50ppm borates & high ta so it does require more acid for each dose. Generally you just don’t want to lower ph more than .4 or .5 at a time incase it’s too much & risk going too low, better to do .4 or .5 then wait 30 minutes, test & add more if necessary.
As for the chlorine, just have your son add 5ppm every day to prevent it from getting worse before your return if u don’t feel he’s up for maintaining the SLAM Process.
 
Your pH will probably rise slowly and you'll have to add some more later. Even without knowing your pool i imagine pH will be good for at least a week. As long as you test often enough you can add more before it gets too high. For MA additions it is important you don't add too much. If PoolMath says you need 32 oz maybe just put in eight or ten and test to see what happened before you add more.

It's hard to imagine your pool ate two gallons of LC last night. As well as adding chlorine maybe ask your son to test a couple times while your gone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager
You may also want to double check that u get the expected rise from your liquid chlorine addition to confirm it’s not degraded.(liquid chlorine loses potency over time) Test 30 minutes after your next addition & modify your doses from that batch going forward if necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Palacemanager
What’s done is done- 7.2 is ok but u never want to lower ph to less than 7. You have a large pool with 50ppm borates & high ta so it does require more acid for each dose. Generally you just don’t want to lower ph more than .4 or .5 at a time incase it’s too much & risk going too low, better to do .4 or .5 then wait 30 minutes, test & add more if necessary.
As for the chlorine, just have your son add 5ppm every day to prevent it from getting worse before your return if u don’t feel he’s up for maintaining the SLAM Process.
So math is definitely not my strong suit! I just burned a couple of brain cells trying to figure out 5ppm! Even googled for a conversion and can't understand what calculations gives me a number in ounces to add! Can you explain or just tell me how much? 1 gallon, 2 gallons?
 
So math is definitely not my strong suit! I just burned a couple of brain cells trying to figure out 5ppm! Even googled for a conversion and can't understand what calculations gives me a number in ounces to add! Can you explain or just tell me how much? 1 gallon, 2 gallons?

So math is definitely not my strong suit! I just burned a couple of brain cells trying to figure out 5ppm! Even googled for a conversion and can't understand what calculations gives me a number in ounces to add! Can you explain or just tell me how much? 1 gallon, 2 gallons?

Are you using the FAS-DPD test (powder and drops) or the OTO (color block) test? You should be using the FAS-DPD.


The only way to remove copper from your pool is draining, which is one of many reasons never to use copper products.


Correct.


No, do not add baking soda. Add muriatic acid to lower the pH. The MA will also lower your TA slightly.


Yes. For chlorination, all you need (or want) is LC.


Correct. Just maintain your FC at or above the target for your CYA.


Until you get your chemistry under control, daily checks of pH and FC are good. Once things are under control, you can test FC and pH a couple times a week. You'll dose LC almost every day.


Do some experimenting to determine the minimum RPM that still achieves your purposes. Many people (including myself) run their systems constantly at low RPM.


Yes.


What's the TA of your fill water? Any baking soda additions?

MA to lower your pH will reduce your TA over time. Use full strength 31.45% MA. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot.

Here's the best and safest method for adding MA: Adding Muriatic
Are you using the FAS-DPD test (powder and drops) or the OTO (color block) test? You should be using the FAS-DPD.


The only way to remove copper from your pool is draining, which is one of many reasons never to use copper products.


Correct.


No, do not add baking soda. Add muriatic acid to lower the pH. The MA will also lower your TA slightly.


Yes. For chlorination, all you need (or want) is LC.


Correct. Just maintain your FC at or above the target for your CYA.


Until you get your chemistry under control, daily checks of pH and FC are good. Once things are under control, you can test FC and pH a couple times a week. You'll dose LC almost every day.


Do some experimenting to determine the minimum RPM that still achieves your purposes. Many people (including myself) run their systems constantly at low RPM.


Yes.


What's the TA of your fill water? Any baking soda additions?

MA to lower your pH will reduce your TA over time. Use full strength 31.45% MA. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot.

Here's the best and safest method for adding MA: Adding Muriatic

What’s done is done- 7.2 is ok but u never want to lower ph to less than 7. You have a large pool with 50ppm borates & high ta so it does require more acid for each dose. Generally you just don’t want to lower ph more than .4 or .5 at a time incase it’s too much & risk going too low, better to do .4 or .5 then wait 30 minutes, test & add more if necessary.
As for the chlorine, just have your son add 5ppm every day to prevent it from getting worse before your return if u don’t feel he’s up for maintaining the SLAM Process.

So math is definitely not my strong suit! I just burned a couple of brain cells trying to figure out 5ppm! Even googled for a conversion and can't understand what calculations gives me a number in ounces to add! Can you explain or just tell me how much? 1 gallon, 2 gallons?
 
If your pool is 33000 gallons 1.5 to 1.75 gallons is 5 ppm. PoolMath will show you that in its Effects of Adding section.
View attachment 451145
Thanks! I had to look for that effects of adding in the menu on the left. I had not seen that before! Such a great app! I especially like that my results/logs transfer here for the experts to see too!
 
If your pool is 33000 gallons 1.5 to 1.75 gallons is 5 ppm. PoolMath will show you that in its Effects of Adding section.
View attachment 451145
One more question. Would 5ppm be the regular daily maintenance amount? That would really add up in cost if it is! 1.5-1.75 gallons a day x avg season of 104 days (June through second week of September here in MI) would be 156 gallons per season. At approx $8-10 per gallon = $1248.00??!! I must be misunderstanding this.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.