Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Also check TFtestkits they sell the flow Vis too
Also check TFtestkits they sell the flow Vis too
SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on check sensor?
- Thread starter theskyisthelimit99
- Start date
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Perfect, thanks
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
I suppose i could always just put a hose in front of my return jet and time a fill on a 5 gallon bucket and get the pool rate there (though i guess that rate would be less due to the solar portion slowing it down), ideally just after the filter. I'll i'd be after is a one time value for how long one turnover takes with all i have going on (i know what stock rate it should be in theory anyway, ie: 2700 gph or so).
Ill take a look.. i also saw this, $79, you can drill a hole and add later.. not quite the $45 someone mentioned but it appears to be rated ok in reviews ($59 here)
I suppose i could always just put a hose in front of my return jet and time a fill on a 5 gallon bucket and get the pool rate there (though i guess that rate would be less due to the solar portion slowing it down), ideally just after the filter. I'll i'd be after is a one time value for how long one turnover takes with all i have going on (i know what stock rate it should be in theory anyway, ie: 2700 gph or so).
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Here is an updated diagram of the under the deck layout i think i finally will be doing.. still think ill put the other check valve (return one) either just above the tee in this photo (harder to get to under deck) or just after drain valve on the wall of garage on the return (edit, definitely just before the tee, photo updated). The 3 way and pipes would be flat on the ground with the 3 way+actuator on the paver
Obviously my swg wont be laying sideways up in the air, but you get the idea
This will likely involve a few 90s and a few 45s i think. The black line represents the "normal" all 3 open operational position of the hayward valve/actuator.. while the blue line with closed pointing at the direction going to the solar panels would represent the "solar off" position. The word closed appears on the handle of the hayward valve so you know exactly where it should be.
I may later add that drill in flow meter to the filter line, but up top near the filter after the union i have at the tank (off picture not visible up high by the tank output junction).
**I think that i should probably add a union on the filter line before the 3 way valve (shown), because if i disconnect at the tank and try to blow the filter line out in the fall, i would think the check valve will prevent it from fully venting.. so the real use of union should be there i think.
edit: i think there is a problem here, solar off wouldnt work, there'd be no return flow (nevermind, i see it, it would go "up" the return line and into the pool, but not past the check valve, which i think really should go just after the tee here, closer to the change in direction) (photo updated)
(added two more unions, unknown if ill use both), i probably will, so i can bring the 3 way/actuator in in one piece in the fall, rest of PVC leave outside
Here is an updated diagram of the under the deck layout i think i finally will be doing.. still think ill put the other check valve (return one) either just above the tee in this photo (harder to get to under deck) or just after drain valve on the wall of garage on the return (edit, definitely just before the tee, photo updated). The 3 way and pipes would be flat on the ground with the 3 way+actuator on the paver
Obviously my swg wont be laying sideways up in the air, but you get the idea
This will likely involve a few 90s and a few 45s i think. The black line represents the "normal" all 3 open operational position of the hayward valve/actuator.. while the blue line with closed pointing at the direction going to the solar panels would represent the "solar off" position. The word closed appears on the handle of the hayward valve so you know exactly where it should be. I may later add that drill in flow meter to the filter line, but up top near the filter after the union i have at the tank (off picture not visible up high by the tank output junction).
**I think that i should probably add a union on the filter line before the 3 way valve (shown), because if i disconnect at the tank and try to blow the filter line out in the fall, i would think the check valve will prevent it from fully venting.. so the real use of union should be there i think.
edit: i think there is a problem here, solar off wouldnt work, there'd be no return flow (nevermind, i see it, it would go "up" the return line and into the pool, but not past the check valve, which i think really should go just after the tee here, closer to the change in direction) (photo updated)
(added two more unions, unknown if ill use both), i probably will, so i can bring the 3 way/actuator in in one piece in the fall, rest of PVC leave outside
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Made some progress.. got the parts connected under the deck from the filter.. and also the pipes out and through the deck into the outer ditch (photos below).. Things went well i think.. word of caution, probably obvious to most.. you either have to unscrew the jandy check filter and remove the flap before gluing or find a way to hold it open till dry.. i did the latter.
As you can see my ditch which was mainly for water now void of rocks going along the garage is not super deep, maybe 8".. my plan was just to back fill with rocks which probably will only cover 4" of the pipe.. not sure if thats best or not.. with walking pressure pushing down at times, but this was my thinking.
On the wire extensions for the solar sensor.. i have 3/4" conduit pipe for the under ground part which is really just as it exits the deck and through the trench (though rock not dirt mostly there).. im assuming its ok to let that wire bare and out ziptied to the pipe (2 conductor thermostat wire) where its not under ground, so no conduit there?
Made some progress.. got the parts connected under the deck from the filter.. and also the pipes out and through the deck into the outer ditch (photos below).. Things went well i think.. word of caution, probably obvious to most.. you either have to unscrew the jandy check filter and remove the flap before gluing or find a way to hold it open till dry.. i did the latter.
As you can see my ditch which was mainly for water now void of rocks going along the garage is not super deep, maybe 8".. my plan was just to back fill with rocks which probably will only cover 4" of the pipe.. not sure if thats best or not.. with walking pressure pushing down at times, but this was my thinking.
On the wire extensions for the solar sensor.. i have 3/4" conduit pipe for the under ground part which is really just as it exits the deck and through the trench (though rock not dirt mostly there).. im assuming its ok to let that wire bare and out ziptied to the pipe (2 conductor thermostat wire) where its not under ground, so no conduit there?
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Looks pretty good to me!
Looks pretty good to me!
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Thank you, it's getting there. The weather has not cooperated much lately.
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Can anyone provide any tips on the goldline GL-235 panel install..
I think installation is pretty basic, though the instructions seem to indicate that the 115v should be tapped into the pump or timer wiring, unsure what that implies.
My outside 115v wiring starts with an outlet that is GFCI and then i have 3 more outlets in series after that.. just tied together by proper 115v outdoor gauge wiring.
My thinking was that i just tap into the 115V terminal in the control panel of the hayward.. and the ground terminal.. run the 115v to the last electrical outlet (receptical) that is in series to its unused posts for the voltage and ground (all 3 wires) while running the wire in standard conduit along my deck.
Is this really all there is to it.. ? What is the meaning of the timer/pump diagram? My pump has a standard plug on it (hayward 1.5 hp).. it plugs into a hanging timer that i manually set for say 10am till 6pm daily (i'm pretty sure this isnt relevant to the wiring diagram). Seems i should only need wire the box up like another outlet in series?
Can anyone provide any tips on the goldline GL-235 panel install..
I think installation is pretty basic, though the instructions seem to indicate that the 115v should be tapped into the pump or timer wiring, unsure what that implies.
My outside 115v wiring starts with an outlet that is GFCI and then i have 3 more outlets in series after that.. just tied together by proper 115v outdoor gauge wiring.
My thinking was that i just tap into the 115V terminal in the control panel of the hayward.. and the ground terminal.. run the 115v to the last electrical outlet (receptical) that is in series to its unused posts for the voltage and ground (all 3 wires) while running the wire in standard conduit along my deck.
Is this really all there is to it.. ? What is the meaning of the timer/pump diagram? My pump has a standard plug on it (hayward 1.5 hp).. it plugs into a hanging timer that i manually set for say 10am till 6pm daily (i'm pretty sure this isnt relevant to the wiring diagram). Seems i should only need wire the box up like another outlet in series?
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
The solar controller should have power at all time. The swg power should be tied into your timer for the pump.
The solar controller should have power at all time. The swg power should be tied into your timer for the pump.
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
I am not familiar with this unit BUT
I looked at the instruction book https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/AquaSolar-GL-235.pdf and I think the reason they want you to tap at the pump timer for the power is this will insure the pump is on when the solar valves are activated.... I could be wrong
I am not familiar with this unit BUT
I looked at the instruction book https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/AquaSolar-GL-235.pdf and I think the reason they want you to tap at the pump timer for the power is this will insure the pump is on when the solar valves are activated.... I could be wrong
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
There is really no issue with the actuator moving while the pump is off.
There is really no issue with the actuator moving while the pump is off.
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Thanks for looking at that. That diagram is what confused me.. as Jason mentioned, there should be no issue with the actuator / valve moving if the pump happens to be off. Sounds like a simple additional 115v wire into the terminals of the control box and i should be good to go. I just hope the 18awg thermostat wire I have, is suitable for the solar sensor up on the roof (via conduit mostly), as some i think said it should be. One thing that initially confuses me in the kit is the little orange "leads" that are in the kit.. i assume they integrate with the wired sensors in some way.. havent gotten that far yet, but i'm sure it will make sense then.I am not familiar with this unit BUT
I looked at the instruction book https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/AquaSolar-GL-235.pdf and I think the reason they want you to tap at the pump timer for the power is this will insure the pump is on when the solar valves are activated.... I could be wrong
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
A little build log update for this weekend.. I toughed it out in the drizzle made some progress today. My cold/input line on the left is tilted rightward.. i could force it left, but id rather not do that (in case eventually it would cause a leak somewhere).. ill probably just cut it on the ground and put a coupler on it, easy to fix.. they ended up about 2" further left than i figured though (ill end up being some 2 feet from the lower edge of the roof line).. either way ill go straight up and ONLY tie it down on the overhang (unless i can find some sort of say 6" long offset brackets that can extend to the wall of the garage for better security like when turning the valves on and off).. its all wood under the roof ledge, so it should be solid up there with my deck screws.. however, the roof line is my only real anchor point aside from gravel/dirt on the ground.. i thought about doing another 90 to the wall, but decided not to (there was a cement ledge down below causing this 6"
however.. just above the tee will be the valves.. these valves from lowes (first time i ran into this).. i can barely turn them.. i'm not sure.. would they just be "bad" (return and get another set) or do i need to get silicone lubricant? Thats why they arent on yet in this picture..
Also.. i'm fearing i may have a pebble in the pipe somewhere (small chance).. I'm thinking i may turn the system on open ended and open the valves and let water shoot out both pipes for 5 seconds just to make sure (hopefully this is ok to do.. instant water fountain) before i attach to the solar panels, hopefully by mid week..
Once at the roof line.. both lines will have to make that right hand turn for about 2 feet, then a left to each location.
A little build log update for this weekend.. I toughed it out in the drizzle made some progress today. My cold/input line on the left is tilted rightward.. i could force it left, but id rather not do that (in case eventually it would cause a leak somewhere).. ill probably just cut it on the ground and put a coupler on it, easy to fix.. they ended up about 2" further left than i figured though (ill end up being some 2 feet from the lower edge of the roof line).. either way ill go straight up and ONLY tie it down on the overhang (unless i can find some sort of say 6" long offset brackets that can extend to the wall of the garage for better security like when turning the valves on and off).. its all wood under the roof ledge, so it should be solid up there with my deck screws.. however, the roof line is my only real anchor point aside from gravel/dirt on the ground.. i thought about doing another 90 to the wall, but decided not to (there was a cement ledge down below causing this 6"
however.. just above the tee will be the valves.. these valves from lowes (first time i ran into this).. i can barely turn them.. i'm not sure.. would they just be "bad" (return and get another set) or do i need to get silicone lubricant? Thats why they arent on yet in this picture..
Also.. i'm fearing i may have a pebble in the pipe somewhere (small chance).. I'm thinking i may turn the system on open ended and open the valves and let water shoot out both pipes for 5 seconds just to make sure (hopefully this is ok to do.. instant water fountain) before i attach to the solar panels, hopefully by mid week..
Once at the roof line.. both lines will have to make that right hand turn for about 2 feet, then a left to each location.
SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
I have my solar controller wired so it will override the pump timer and run the system if there is heat at the panels. This is why the controller would need its own power source (and is explained in the instructions).
My pump plugs into a motor contactor (relay) that is controlled by both the timer and solar controller. The timer & controller energize the contactor coil and switch the contactor on and off as needed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have my solar controller wired so it will override the pump timer and run the system if there is heat at the panels. This is why the controller would need its own power source (and is explained in the instructions).
My pump plugs into a motor contactor (relay) that is controlled by both the timer and solar controller. The timer & controller energize the contactor coil and switch the contactor on and off as needed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
I tried the silicone jell on the valves.. they are still very tight.. practically hurts your hand to turn.. tried a few others in the store.. same issue (lowes).. not sure whats up there.. i may look at a different store completely (i didnt have this issue with the valves on the pool in another location)
For my drain valves, i'm not sure what to do.. i currently have a 3 way slip in place.. couldnt find 3 way with one threaded.. I have caps, plugs and a 3 way with 3/4" plug option.. in any case none of these solutions screws in the whole way, so i'm concerned it will leak.
I'm leaning towards a pipe extension then the 2" threaded cap (so i dont have to cut out the 3 ways i already did) seen in the middle.. as you can see the caps/plugs wont thread the whole way in.. i assume the compression of the threads will prevent it from leaking? Does a cap vs plug make a difference?
I tried the silicone jell on the valves.. they are still very tight.. practically hurts your hand to turn.. tried a few others in the store.. same issue (lowes).. not sure whats up there.. i may look at a different store completely (i didnt have this issue with the valves on the pool in another location)
For my drain valves, i'm not sure what to do.. i currently have a 3 way slip in place.. couldnt find 3 way with one threaded.. I have caps, plugs and a 3 way with 3/4" plug option.. in any case none of these solutions screws in the whole way, so i'm concerned it will leak.
I'm leaning towards a pipe extension then the 2" threaded cap (so i dont have to cut out the 3 ways i already did) seen in the middle.. as you can see the caps/plugs wont thread the whole way in.. i assume the compression of the threads will prevent it from leaking? Does a cap vs plug make a difference?
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
I ended up just using the 2" bushing to 2" cap (threaded with teflon), seems to be holding up ok, no leaks.. moving on up to the sky here. Turned the water on, flushed out the inbound/cold/filter line.. ran a hose into the return to clear it up a bit. No visible leaks so far along the path.
I used a combination of silicone jell and petroleum jelly on the ball valves.. they were impossible to twist otherwise, seem much better now.
Tomorrow ill run the solar sensor and do the wiring.. for the sensor ill put conduit down and the thermostat 18awg wire inside.. when i get to the part where it comes out of the ground ill just use ziptie to tie the actual wire to the pvc pipe (no conduit).
I ended up just using the 2" bushing to 2" cap (threaded with teflon), seems to be holding up ok, no leaks.. moving on up to the sky here. Turned the water on, flushed out the inbound/cold/filter line.. ran a hose into the return to clear it up a bit. No visible leaks so far along the path.
I used a combination of silicone jell and petroleum jelly on the ball valves.. they were impossible to twist otherwise, seem much better now.
Tomorrow ill run the solar sensor and do the wiring.. for the sensor ill put conduit down and the thermostat 18awg wire inside.. when i get to the part where it comes out of the ground ill just use ziptie to tie the actual wire to the pvc pipe (no conduit).
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Does anyone know if it matters which side of the solar array the vac relief breaker goes (top left or top right).. my diagram/plan was to go with the top right on the return side.. smartpool's manual shows it on the top left end cap?
Does anyone know if it matters which side of the solar array the vac relief breaker goes (top left or top right).. my diagram/plan was to go with the top right on the return side.. smartpool's manual shows it on the top left end cap?
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
It doesn't really matter where the vrv valve goes.
It doesn't really matter where the vrv valve goes.
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
Ok, what of the instructions also says to pull the relief valve out when draining in the fall.. i guess thats necessary? Having it on the top on either side means crawling up onto the roof unfortunately i guess, if so.
Re: SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions on 3 way placement
I never remove my VRV, but I did add a spigot valve at the low point on the roof that I open in the winter to ensure that all the water is out. Of course in my climate, that is probably overkill, but no in yours
I never remove my VRV, but I did add a spigot valve at the low point on the roof that I open in the winter to ensure that all the water is out. Of course in my climate, that is probably overkill, but no in yours