Smart switch for pool light control?

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C

ckh1980

0
Oct 14, 2016
92
Virginia Beach
I've used some inexpensive smart switches from Monoprice.com to put our porch and entry lights on from dawn to dusk. I got the idea the other day that the same switch could be used to automate the pool light to come on for a few hours in the evening. Currently, the light is controled by a manual switch out by the pad. Aside from making sure the switch is in a water tight enclosure, is there anything else I should consider? This is the switch:

STITCH by Monoprice Smart In-Wall On/Off Light Switch, Works with Alexa and Google Home for Touchless Voice Control, No Hub Required - Monoprice.com

Powered by STITCH™, this Wireless Smart In‑Wall Light Switch is UL® approved and allows you to remotely control your lights using your Android™ or iOS® smartphone or tablet f
www.monoprice.com
 
ckh,

I see no problem on the surface.. But...

I assume your light power is from a GFCI source. If so, depending on how the switch is made, and wired, it may trip the GFCI.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Have you checked if you have a neutral and ground wires in the pool light switch box?
 
I have a smart switch (TP-Link Kasa) controlling my pool light, and it works great, along with the outdoor plugs I have on the rest of the landscape lighting, the fountain, the SWCG, and the robot. 95% of the functionality of an automation system at <5% of the cost :) It's even responsive enough to use for a color-changing LED light (where you toggle the switch to change modes)

Main consideration is having a neutral in the box, enough space for a bigger switch, and a decent Wi-Fi signal there. The pool light absolutely should have a GFCI in the path before the switch, but I wouldn't expect issues with that. If the switch (or any device) is leaking current to ground, it's faulty and you don't want it on any circuit anyway. I'm pretty sure that devices that don't require a neutral (uncommon to find a WiFi switch that doesn't) get their power by being in series with the bulbs (which is why they often only work with incandescents of enough wattage). That won't trip a GFCI either.

Only other thing is to make sure it has a good weatherproof cover -- for a switch it doesn't necessarily need to be the big "in-use" type meant to close while a cord is plugged in, but I have a nice clear one so I can see the status light. Most of these switches say they must be installed in dry locations -- my understanding is that a proper weatherproof box is considered "dry" inside.
 
ckh1980 said:
To be honest, I'm not sure that the light is on a GFCI.
Click to expand...
Based on a previous post you have a 120V Amerilite fixture so you absolutely need GFCI protection on that circuit.

735325984988430453-jpg.432217
 
I think any pool light needs or should be GFCI protected. I use a Leviton wifi switch to control my pool light. I also use wifi switches to turn on and off contactors for my pool pump and chlorine dosing pump. If a switch (or any device) down stream of a gfci breaker is causing nusance trips, most likely there is an issue with one or both of the devices. Most likely you have a neutral wire available or can run one if needed to install a smart switch that requires a neutral wire. Once thing to take into consideration is the range of the wifi and the type of enclosure the switch is in. I had some TP-link switches and their connection was flaky at best, the Leviton wifi ones have been reliable. I doubt you will find a smart wifi switch that does not need a neutral wire. There are smart switches that don't require a neutral, but they need a seperate hub to work and the range is much less than wifi. Some may cause nusance trips since they sometime leak a small amount of current to the ground. This shoud be less than the trip current on a gfci, but that is not always the case.
 

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