any suggestions for aeration? The aeriation just raises the PH allowing more acid be used again to lower TA more right?I think you can do it. Try to work the TA down to the 50 to 60 range through aeration and pH additions.
any suggestions for aeration? The aeriation just raises the PH allowing more acid be used again to lower TA more right?I think you can do it. Try to work the TA down to the 50 to 60 range through aeration and pH additions.
Correct. Pool Math, "Effect of Adding Chemicals" will tell you how much TA with decrease with acid additions. Remember, your pH 100 fill water will try to pull TA up with evaporative top offs.The aeriation just raises the PH allowing more acid be used again to lower TA more right?
Spa spillover? Waterfalls/water features? Lotta cannonballs.? Anything that causes lots of popping bubbles. @PoolStored made this DIY this SCAD (Self-Contained Aerating Device):any suggestions for aeration?
Pump has full time power thru breaker. There is a mechanical timer in the electrical box.That is a problem. Tfp recommends that the flow switch not be relied upon as the primary safety device. Flow switches are subject to failure, and a buildup of hydrogen gas in the cell can cause an explosion. Luckily you were out there when it happened and now you can take corrective action.
I assume you have no automation system, correct? If not, you need to connect the swg to a timer. Your VS pump should receive full-time power. Is it wired through a timer or connected directly to the breaker? Do you have any type of a timer at the equipment pad?
This is probably best.Given that you are using the flow switch as the primary safety I would just replace it with a Hayward part.
Is the timer controlling any devices? If the VS is newer, the timer probably controlled a single speed pump.Pump has full time power thru breaker. There is a mechanical timer in the electrical box.
All equipment came with the install 4 years ago. I'm assuming the builder justed used a standard "pool box" on the install but the mech timer has never been connected to anything. I will do as requested later tonight. Once again. Thanks.This is probably best.
Is the timer controlling any devices? If the VS is newer, the timer probably controlled a single speed pump.
Are you able to connect the SWG to the timer? The SWG should be set to power on only within the pump's run schedule. If you need help, post pics of the timer and load center. Shut down power and remove any wire covers under the timer.
I did not as it was 2200 and dark. I just turned it off and then on this morning on way to work when pump was running. I will check it after work.Did you unscrew the flow switch and examine the contacts?
Did you test the flow switch using a multimeter?
Given that you are using the flow switch as the primary safety I would just replace it with a Hayward part.
TA was tested at 70 before I put the load in. 7.2 and 70. Have been gone the last two days so I'll take a look tonight.Cool, you're still with us. I thought maybe you exploded.
How is your TA doing? Are you still seeing flakes?
That's a pretty good number. With the softener controlling your calcium level, you should be fine. Consider exchanging some water during the off-season to get your CH level down to the 400 range. You'll be able to allow TA and pH to drift up a bit and find their sweet spot. Should be smooth sailing from that point out.TA was tested at 70 before I put the load in. 7.2 and 70. Have been gone the last two days so I'll take a look tonight.
About 6 hours post borate and a bit of cya. Normally it’s about half of the “flakes” pictured.That's a pretty good number. With the softener controlling your calcium level, you should be fine. Consider exchanging some water during the off-season to get your CH level down to the 400 range. You'll be able to allow TA and pH to drift up a bit and find their sweet spot. Should be smooth sailing from that point out.
Pool is clear of flakes bro. Thanks again.Dang...it actually worked!
Happy to hear the good news.