Small white flakes always

The aeriation just raises the PH allowing more acid be used again to lower TA more right?
Correct. Pool Math, "Effect of Adding Chemicals" will tell you how much TA with decrease with acid additions. Remember, your pH 100 fill water will try to pull TA up with evaporative top offs.

Ideally, you want to get your TA down to desired range before adding borates.

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any suggestions for aeration?
Spa spillover? Waterfalls/water features? Lotta cannonballs.? Anything that causes lots of popping bubbles. @PoolStored made this DIY this SCAD (Self-Contained Aerating Device):

More ideas here:
 
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Jumping in here as a fellow Tucsonan with white flakes in her pool from the SWCG. It's just something I deal with at this point, no amount of trying to fight the CH around here seems worth it. Granted my fill water is Marana Water which, while slightly less calcified (my fill water tests around 200PPM), is AWFUL for TDS. I have found (like others mentioned) that running the pH low helps (as long as you don't have a heater). I try to keep mine around 7.2 (but that's a constant battle because the fill water has a pH of 7.8 and 90PPM TA... grr!). If anyone ever finds the solution, I would adore you.
 
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New pool 3 months old, and found that white-flaks can be caused by not allowing the SWG to shut off before the Pump.
One reason I read was 'cool-down' for the salt chlorinator for it runs hot. With no flow it develops CA in its chamber then when started up flaks appear around returns. (just one reason for flakes, older units could need other actions)
Now mind you I am new and have the same problem. I not worried since now run pump 24/7 until I can make a shut-off idea for the SWG. Btw very little flakes now running 24/7.
 
Softner piped into fill line this morning.
Cell issues last night. A couple months ago I luckily heard the water boiling basically late at night sitting on the patio when pump was off and saw the cell was generating still. Took switch out and it had no debris in it. Unplugged connection and reinstalled. Still generating with no flow. Replaced switch and everything was working fine. Last night I switched the cell off when i was running the pump longer to move acid around. I went out prior to bed and turned pump off and switch back on. No flow but cell was generating. Turned pump on and off and that stopped the generation. Wondering if switch is going bad again or there are control panel issues? Will keep an eye on it.
 
That is a problem. Tfp recommends that the flow switch not be relied upon as the primary safety device. Flow switches are subject to failure, and a buildup of hydrogen gas in the cell can cause an explosion. Luckily you were out there when it happened and now you can take corrective action.

I assume you have no automation system, correct? If not, you need to connect the swg to a timer. Your VS pump should receive full-time power. Is it wired through a timer or connected directly to the breaker? Do you have any type of a timer at the equipment pad?
 
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Did you unscrew the flow switch and examine the contacts?

Did you test the flow switch using a multimeter?

Given that you are using the flow switch as the primary safety I would just replace it with a Hayward part.
 
That is a problem. Tfp recommends that the flow switch not be relied upon as the primary safety device. Flow switches are subject to failure, and a buildup of hydrogen gas in the cell can cause an explosion. Luckily you were out there when it happened and now you can take corrective action.

I assume you have no automation system, correct? If not, you need to connect the swg to a timer. Your VS pump should receive full-time power. Is it wired through a timer or connected directly to the breaker? Do you have any type of a timer at the equipment pad?
Pump has full time power thru breaker. There is a mechanical timer in the electrical box.
 
Given that you are using the flow switch as the primary safety I would just replace it with a Hayward part.
This is probably best.
Pump has full time power thru breaker. There is a mechanical timer in the electrical box.
Is the timer controlling any devices? If the VS is newer, the timer probably controlled a single speed pump.

Are you able to connect the SWG to the timer? The SWG should be set to power on only within the pump's run schedule. If you need help, post pics of the timer and load center. Shut down power and remove any wire covers under the timer.
 
This is probably best.

Is the timer controlling any devices? If the VS is newer, the timer probably controlled a single speed pump.

Are you able to connect the SWG to the timer? The SWG should be set to power on only within the pump's run schedule. If you need help, post pics of the timer and load center. Shut down power and remove any wire covers under the timer.
All equipment came with the install 4 years ago. I'm assuming the builder justed used a standard "pool box" on the install but the mech timer has never been connected to anything. I will do as requested later tonight. Once again. Thanks.
 
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Did you unscrew the flow switch and examine the contacts?

Did you test the flow switch using a multimeter?

Given that you are using the flow switch as the primary safety I would just replace it with a Hayward part.
I did not as it was 2200 and dark. I just turned it off and then on this morning on way to work when pump was running. I will check it after work.
 
TA was tested at 70 before I put the load in. 7.2 and 70. Have been gone the last two days so I'll take a look tonight.
That's a pretty good number. With the softener controlling your calcium level, you should be fine. Consider exchanging some water during the off-season to get your CH level down to the 400 range. You'll be able to allow TA and pH to drift up a bit and find their sweet spot. Should be smooth sailing from that point out.
 
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That's a pretty good number. With the softener controlling your calcium level, you should be fine. Consider exchanging some water during the off-season to get your CH level down to the 400 range. You'll be able to allow TA and pH to drift up a bit and find their sweet spot. Should be smooth sailing from that point out.
About 6 hours post borate and a bit of cya. Normally it’s about half of the “flakes” pictured.
 

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Update. Have noticed a giant decrease in the amount of flakes. Some days I don't notice any unless I REALLY look. Thanks to all for the help.
 

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