I just checked and good schedule 80 unions are spendy most places at the moment. I'd rather see you use a few good ones, than buy 15 cheapo ones that will need replacing.
Small leak from glued elbow: patch or replace?
- Thread starter Ignoramus
- Start date
Also, since I've got attention.of you all, would you please help me with this suspect? I have problem with Jandy Neverlube to select input from skimmers and floor drain.
Locking "teeth" on the handle are worn out and it can be turned rather easily when the set screw is tightened. Is it a problem?
Also, I seem to regularly strip that set screw trying to tighten it "enough to seal". I have arthritis in my hands that reduced my hand strength and so "hand tight" is no more good enough to seal. I usually do hand tight and then 1/8 of a turn or less. It seems to work the first time on new screw, but not on subsequent uses. Doing any less leaves me with bubbles in pump basket. Is it me not having found sweet spot or is it some damage in the valve?
The o-rings are all new. I had been using Teflon lube.
Thank you!
Ig
Locking "teeth" on the handle are worn out and it can be turned rather easily when the set screw is tightened. Is it a problem?
Also, I seem to regularly strip that set screw trying to tighten it "enough to seal". I have arthritis in my hands that reduced my hand strength and so "hand tight" is no more good enough to seal. I usually do hand tight and then 1/8 of a turn or less. It seems to work the first time on new screw, but not on subsequent uses. Doing any less leaves me with bubbles in pump basket. Is it me not having found sweet spot or is it some damage in the valve?
The o-rings are all new. I had been using Teflon lube.
Thank you!
Ig
All the pieces above ground seem to be schedule 40. There's not enough pipe length for the line to and from the pool to see what kind it is. Is there another way to check?
Assuming in-ground pipes are schedule 40, if I replace all aboveground parts with schedule 80, would that make in-ground pipes the weakest link, most vulnerable to bursting?
Thank you!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,665
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I don't know what that mystery component is. It doesn't look like a check valve, though it's in the right spot for one, right before the tab feeder. @1poolman1 has run into just about everything in his work. Thoughts?
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,665
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
There are cams you can rent or buy that can travel down underground pipes.
Could have be an injection port, an anode, or a water bond.
Yeah that's good. Get schedule 80 unions. The standard HomeDepot ones are mostly crud.
Clearly the teeth are stripped on both the handle and valve cover, so the set screw probably cant do what its supposed to do. This is the exact reason to use rebuildable valves. Everything but the valve body is replaceable in minutes. Pop those screws and put the new lid and handle on.
Don’t know, maybe a stub for a temperature probe? Or maybe it’s just an odd looking valve. Doesn’t seem like it could seal very well with that little black pivot.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,665
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
See, now I wouldn't use unions there. You have room for plenty of pipe, which could be cut a half dozen times and put back together with couplers. Unions are less reliable and cost a lot more. Unions are more appropriate for a pump that has to come in from the cold each winter season. I don't think you need unions for every instance of an off chance potential some-day repair. But if you want, it's really no harm, just slightly less reliable. Don't overthink all this. Eliminate some elbows, plot it out so you can replace most everything with couplers some day, leave enough pipe for the SWG we're going to talk you into, and save the dough for the ever-increasing expense of chemicals. IMO...
