Bought a house with large in ground pool which is not taken care for 2 years. Spent months fixing things inside and finally got to the pool. Water was dark, dark green with rotten leaves and mud at bottom. I first got PH right and added pool stabilizer using the amount based on its instruction. But I didn't wait to test CYA but rather started SLAM immediately. Spent 1 hour every day to scoop mud at bottom at vaccum. Now it's the forth day, the pool is light green but not clear. I have a question. tested 2 hours after every SLAM and CYA, CC, and FC have been always 0. I assume it's because they were also consumed by the algae but not sure about CYA. Should I trust CYA test during SLAM and add stabilizer? Now I'm adding chlorine at night to avoid this problem but would like to SLAM during day time if CYA level is right.
SLAMing an abondoned pool
- Thread starter youngguon
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
Can we assume you are testing with your own proper test kit?
How much CYA was added to target what ppm?
You must remove as much of the solid organic material as possible. Until you do, all the chlorine will act on is oxidizing that material.
Whatever CYA you added is in the pool water. How did you add the CYA powder?
Can you fill out your signature so we know more information about your pool and equipment?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Can we assume you are testing with your own proper test kit?
How much CYA was added to target what ppm?
You must remove as much of the solid organic material as possible. Until you do, all the chlorine will act on is oxidizing that material.
Whatever CYA you added is in the pool water. How did you add the CYA powder?
Can you fill out your signature so we know more information about your pool and equipment?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Welcome to TFP!
You are missing the key point of a SLAM if you let the chlorine drop. You have to keep adding chlorine as needed as often as needed until the process is over.
You are missing the key point of a SLAM if you let the chlorine drop. You have to keep adding chlorine as needed as often as needed until the process is over.
Thanks. I tested with clorox smart strip. The pool has about 50k gallons. I added 3 bottles of 4-lb stabilizers from Lowes slowly through skimmer to try to get 30 ppm, but as I said I did wait to test.
I only had 1-2 hours/day to work on the pool, so I tried to do everything in parallel although I know it's not ideal to scoop while SLAM.
I'll find time to figure out the signature thing.
I only had 1-2 hours/day to work on the pool, so I tried to do everything in parallel although I know it's not ideal to scoop while SLAM.
I'll find time to figure out the signature thing.
gh
I felt i may need to add tones of chlorine not to let it drop. I added 8 1-gallon liquid every time, but in 2 hours, nothing left. I heard adding too much is bad for liner and pump. Should I add more? It's a pool with 40-50K gallons.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Test Strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
Do you recommend me stop here and get test kit and start over following the process exactly?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Correct. You can add 5-10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day with pump running to hold the algae back some. When you get your kit, run a full set of tests and post them here.
Thanks. I'll see if I can get some test kit tomorrow and will vacuum through before restart. Was able to vacuum out a lot of green today.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Proper test kits are only available from online retailers. See the links in my post above.
Going by that picture, does not look like 50k capacity. Calculate it with pool math to get close otherwise you'll overshoot and run into new issues.
Can you clarify what you're understanding by saying "not ideal to scoop while SLAM"?
Do you mean scoop for leaves and debris? If so, by all means do that as much as you can. As long as you have organic materials in the pool you're going to lose chlorine quickly and it won't have much of a chance of clearing the water.
It's hard to know if you got it all when you can't see the bottom but if you get a leaf net it'll be much easier and go faster.
Did you put the CYA in the skimmer, and then perhaps backwash? If so, there's a chance you backwashed the CYA out. To add CYA, just put it in a sock, tie it off so that it doesn't touch the liner and hang it in front of a return. Then periodically go squish the sock (30 minutes is plenty of soaking time between squishings).
Please put your pump and filter information in your sig when you get a chance. Is it sand filter, cartridge filter, or DE filter?
TF-Testkits ships fast, so get that on order right away. You will absolutely need the XL Option though. If you get the K-2006C make sure it is the C version, and even that may not be enough to complete your SLAM. See Test Kits Compared
Those test strips are useless, utterly worthless junk. You can throw them away.
If you want to see a pool in similar conditions as yours turn crystal clear, check this out.
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Also, if you're going to SLAM, you will need to test and add chlorine frequently. 3 or more times a day is essential. SLAM is an acronym for "Shock Level And Maintain", which means maintaining FC at shock level for your CYA level. See FC/CYA Levels. SLAM is a process, and it does take time and diligence.
Some reading for you, read them as many times as you need to fully understand.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
SLAM Process
While you're waiting for a test kit, you can use this time to scoop the debris from the pool. Do you have a cover for winterizing the pool?
Yes, it's a very rough calculation. You see it smaller or larger than 40k? The bottom is sloped. How to calculate it accurately?
Thanks. Never handled pool, although a very good part-time handyman. Overwhelmed by all the info, the pump, chemical, algae, liner, testing. Scooped and vaccumed in the last two days. I'm sure now not much at the bottom. Will follow your approach to adding CYA. I think I wasted abiut half.
Bought this and waiting. Taylor Complete K-2006 FAS-DPD Chlorine Test Kit
Still need to find filter info since I don't live there.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If the kit you purchased was not the C version of the K2006, you will need FAS-DPD and CYA refills now.
You can order those at TFTestkits.net
You can order those at TFTestkits.net
Yes. Scooped and vacuumed in the past two days.
There was a tarp. The pool guy opened it last winter as he believed covering with tarp is a risk.
Is tarp OK? The pool cover is very expensive
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It would be shown as a K2006C. Normally costs just under $100.
Best value was the TF100 I linked to above. If you can cancel your order and order the TF100 you would be better off.
Best value was the TF100 I linked to above. If you can cancel your order and order the TF100 you would be better off.