Measure it again. 20 by 40, the shallow end is 3 and the deep is 8. The bottom has 2 slopes, but I think it's more like 36-40 gal.Going by that picture, does not look like 50k capacity. Calculate it with pool math to get close otherwise you'll overshoot and run into new issues.
Just added 4 gallon LC this evening. Water now is more milky gray with cloud than green. Is this good?Measure it again. 20 by 40, the shallow end is 3 and the deep is 8. The bottom has 2 slopes, but I think it's more like 36-40 gal.
Recent picturesTF100 just delivered:Bought a house with large in ground pool which is not taken care for 2 years. Spent months fixing things inside and finally got to the pool. Water was dark, dark green with rotten leaves and mud at bottom. I first got PH right and added pool stabilizer using the amount based on its instruction...www.troublefreepool.com
FC=2 (added 3 gallon liquid 3 hours ago)
CYA=95 (added to much stabilizer using the strip)
Pool math says to drain 47%. Is there any other way to increase CYA?
If have to drain, I plan to drain from the main and shut off skimmers. Will that be too much pressure on main pipe?
Do i need to drain and refill 1 foot each time not to stress the vinyl liner?
I plan to raise HP after draining, believe it'll save some Borax, make sense?
And then I'll get TA right before SLAM.
Getting sump pump for water exchange on Sunday and just vacuumed 2 hours. Anything else before Sunday? More LC?
Thanks. Tested CYA again. Feel it's much lower. Tested last night in kitchen. Do I have to rest under sunlight? Black dit just now was very visible.It would be best to add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day with pump running to not let things get worse.
This will take many hours. At 6 gpm, to exchange half of your pool water will take 50 hours.