SLAM question and general algae question

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Baker25

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Jul 1, 2018
72
Roscoe, IL
Noticed some "junk" in the bottom of the pool the other day before I left for a 24 hour trip. FC level was normal, no CC. Topped off the FC to 6 (CYA is 30). When I came back the junk had become more widespread. Also noticed a yellow hue on the bottom of the pool. Nothing on the walls. FC was down to 2.5, but no CC. Started the SLAM this morning, FC to 12. Been checking it every few hours. I brushed the heck out of the pool, and vacuumed everything I could see. Water is currently clear.

Question 1: How many PPM can the FC level go down before the whole SLAM process needs to be restarted? I caught it at 10.5ppm after two hours. Is that fine? I don't know how people with full time jobs can keep up with a SLAM.

Question 2: Does the pump absolutely have to run 24/7 during this process? Would like to give it a break overnight or for a few hours if possible.

Question 3: How does algae grow when FC is being maintained? I never let it get below 3ppm. It appears the growth started under the mat I have down for the steps. The water was very cloudy near the stairs and under the mat it was very slimy. I'm thinking this might be mustard algae as there is zero hint of green anywhere.
 
You can have algae with CC at 0.

1. Just raise FC back up to SLAM level whenever you can check it.

2. Yes. Run the pump 24/7 during the SLAM Process for best results.

3. The FC/CYA Levels assumes algae free water. Once algae takes hold it can thrive at those levels until you raise to SLAM levels b
 
ajw22 said:
You can have algae with CC at 0.

1. Just raise FC back up to SLAM level whenever you can check it.

2. Yes. Run the pump 24/7 during the SLAM Process for best results.

3. The FC/CYA Levels assumes algae free water. Once algae takes hold it can thrive at those levels until you raise to SLAM levels b
Click to expand...

So algae can start even when the FC as it should be? I'm guessing the answer is no, unless you fail to clean dark places like under a pool floor mat.
 
The SLAM Process is a process, not a one time addition. The process isn’t over until you meet the 3 exit criteria. You are still in the process. Test and redose chlorine to get FC up to SLAM levels.
You should test at least three times a day, morning, when you get home, before bed and as much as you can in between.

Yes, run the pump 24/7. Why do you want to run it less?

FC level is based on CYA level. Arbitrary number of 3 ppm is meaningless. Any place with stagnant water can allow local FC to be low and not sufficient to prevent algae

What method are you using for testing?
 
Baker25 said:
So algae can start even when the FC as it should be? I'm guessing the answer is no, unless you fail to clean dark places like under a pool floor mat.
Click to expand...

FC drops during the day. What time would you test your FC? All it takes is one day for your FC to drop too low and algae makes a home.
 
Algae exists in the air, it finds its way in to the pool constantly. There is no such thing as an open container of water (like a pool) that is algae-free.

The "Minimum FC" on the FC/CYA Levels is where chlorine kill rates of algae is faster than the reproduction rates of algae. That is: it kills algae faster than it reproduces. This is enough to keep a clear pool clear and would technically clear a green pool eventually.
 
Teald024 said:
The SLAM Process is a process, not a one time addition. The process isn’t over until you meet the 3 exit criteria. You are still in the process. Test and redose chlorine to get FC up to SLAM levels.

You should test at least three times a day, morning, when you get home, before bed and as much as you can in between.



Yes, run the pump 24/7. Why do you want to run it less?



FC level is based on CYA level. Arbitrary number of 3 ppm is meaningless. Any place with stagnant water can allow local FC to be low and not sufficient to prevent algae



What method are you using for testing?
Click to expand...



I don't want to run it less, I just don't want to burn the motor out. Maybe they are built to run 24/7, I just would want to give it a break I guess. I haven't stopped it yet, going on 36 hours. I am using a test kit similar to the one sold here. It has Leslies Pool on the front but all the reagents are from Taylor.





ajw22 said:
FC drops during the day. What time would you test your FC? All it takes is one day for your FC to drop too low and algae makes a home.
Click to expand...



Usually in the evening. I suspect that the algae was beginning to grow under the stairs and eventually took over causing the outbreak.



So I feel defeated today. Went to bed last night, set the FC to 12. Got up this morning and checked it. It was down to 10ppm which was around 8 hours later at 5am. Got home and test 12 hours later and I was down to 7.5ppm. It was a very cloudy day. Pool is perfectly clear though. My PH was a little higher, took about 3 drops to bring it to the right color so I added the proper dose of muratic acid. I am on well water and it has high alkalinity. I am off Wednesday and Thursday, guess I will keep playing this game until then and can check it every few hours.
 

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frogabog said:
Can you tell us which Leslie's test kit you've got? The standard one is only a DPD kit (Taylor K-2005). They do sell (online) a FAS-DPD kit which looks to be the same as the Taylor K-2006.
Click to expand...

It's the FAS-DPD kit. I bought it at intheswim and it showed up as the Taylor K-2006 on the site but when it got delivered it has Leslies on it but still days FAS-DPD. I bought it before I knew this website was created or else I would have bought the TF-100!
 
Good Good... Just wanted to make sure it wasn't the K-2005.

It seems Leslies is banking on the TFP "get the right kit" backlash. It's not cheaper through them though. They're marking up a K-2006 (not -2006c) at $99 plus shipping vs Amazon's $59.99 with Prime. I've never seen or been in a Leslie's... but the chain doesn't seem super into offering great deals. The price, is the price. Wonder if they keep them on the shelf in some places...
 
Hi, I believe pH is unreliable during a slam, i.e. pH test with high FC is not a valid result.
Therefore you would not add anything to adjust it during the slam.

“Got up this morning and checked it. It was down to 10ppm which was around 8 hours later at 5am. Got home and test 12 hours later and I was down to 7.5ppm.”
I am assuming you added chlorine after each of these tests to bring it back up, yes?
 
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