Skimmer plate size and white sediment

I know this is confusing- don’t you love all the Taylor numbers!
Synopsis:
4 tests kits contain what you need:
*Taylor K2006 - this contains the least reagents
*Taylor k2006 C (bigger bottles)
*TF 100 - best value - more chlorine tests than k2006C
*TFPro - same as tf100 in a fancy case +speedstir
There’s a comparison chart here
Ha, yes, makes my head hurt. I will likely buy this one to start.
TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD https://a.co/d/6VzO6b5
 
That is the correct kit (contains the correct tests)
But The slam will go through your fas/dpd reagents quickly so the k2006 C or tf100 are recommended so you don’t run out mid slam.

The TF100 or Pro both have a 'slam option' that's an even better choice.
 
TF100 will arrive tonight. Liquid chlorine SLAM starts tomorrow. I’ve been using cal hypo shock in the interim and brushing walls. Lots a white sediment. I would like to vacuum the pool, but I’m still having trouble finding a skimmer plate that fits. I tried the post-2013 waterway plate and it does not lock in, so definitely need a pre-2013 plate, which I cannot find anywhere. Thoughts/suggestions are welcome. There are two lips on either side of the skimmer hole, so the plate should have a lip that locks in underneath those. My terminology is off, but hopefully you get the idea. Many thanks.
 

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Contact inyo pools about the plate -
I fear it may be obsolete but they will know.
In the interim you may want to try an adapter cone. They are generally flexible rubber so it shouldn’t get stuck in the pipe like the hose cuff.
Usually lowes, Home Depot, Leslies, has them
 
Contact inyo pools about the plate -
I fear it may be obsolete but they will know.
In the interim you may want to try an adapter cone. They are generally flexible rubber so it shouldn’t get stuck in the pipe like the hose cuff.
Usually lowes, Home Depot, Leslies, has them
Thank you. It’s definitely discontinued. I will try the adapter and contact inyo.
 
First off, I have no idea what I’m doing and my pool is in bad shape, but much better than it was. See pic for white sediment.
 

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Now on to the test. As I posted previously, I’ve been adding cal hypo shock about every other day. Today I poured half a gallon of liquid chlorine in hours before I tested, which is clearly expired because it did nothing. Here are the results:

pH 7.8
Cl Br clear (nothing)
 

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Fas Dpd - probably should have skipped this with the cl test above, but I added 90 drops and it never turned clear. It did turn pink, but I stopped adding drops at 90 to avoid wasting it.
 

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Alkalinity 110
Calcium (wow) assuming it did this right, it’s 1100.
CYA - confused. What does “fill until the bottom is obscured” mean? I filled all the way to top and still saw the black dot at the bottom.

These are the instructions I followed for the tests. Test Kit Instructions and Tips
 

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I purchased new liquid chlorine and pored 1/2 a gallon into the skimmer after the test.
Pour liquid chlorine in slowly infront of a running return - not the skimmer. Brush the area.
There’s really no chems that go in the skimmer except if you’re adding DE to
your sand.

It looks like you have no cya If the dot stayed completely visible & the tube never got cloudy.
Without cya any chlorine you add will be consumed very quickly by the sun.
If you wish to proceed as is then
You need to add 30ppm worth of cya to a sock 🧦, tie a knot in it & hang it infront of a return from a pole or something. Squeeze the sock to dissolve the cya.
If you are going to exchange water (highly recommend) then you will wait & do the cya upon completing that.

For the fas dpd test be sure you’re using the right reagent at the right time.
10ml sample
Heaping scoop of powder- if it stays clear you have no fc
If it turns pink
Add R0871 drops until clear for fc measurement (each drop counts as 0.5 ppm)
Add Approximately 1 drop per second- if you let the sample sit it will become more pink again.
After clear Then proceed with the cc portion - by adding 5drops of R0003
If it turns pink Then R0871 drops until clear. (Each drop counts as 0.5 ppm)
If it says clear you have no cc.

About the ch -
I suspect you have some calcium precipitation due to the high ch & recent use of cal hypo-
With ch that high you really need to exchange most of your water. It is very hard to filter out calcium precipitation.
Approximately a 70% exchange is needed
IMG_7542.jpeg
This will also rid you of the bulk of the copper you have added which is contributing to stains.
You can do this with the no drain water exchange to avoid endangering your plaster
Step 3.5
👇
Afterwards with proper management of CSI you should be able to treat current calcium scale & prevent new from occurring.

Since you have added approximately 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine- try the fas/dpd test again & see how you fare.
Let us know what you decide to do regarding exchanging water.
 
Thank you. Question: will it work if
I drain my pool in increments and refill over time or is that inefficient and ineffective? So, drain 5 inches, refill, a week later drain 5 inches, refill, etc? We don’t have a water drainage system in our neighborhood, so my water would run into my neighbor’s new grass across the street and in my neighbor’s yard to my right if I drained a significant amount at one time. I also don’t want to leave the plaster exposed to the sun for a long period of time if I drain the pool over the course of a week or so to avoid runoff. As I mentioned previously, we are also on water restrictions in my neighborhood. I’m afraid this job is beyond me. I will likely call a professional to help and then maintain it myself once it’s back in shape. I did hire a pool “professional” months ago and he ripped me off for $300. Came once, put chemicals in, never swept or vacuumed. Came a second time, put chemicals in, never swept, brushed or vacuumed. Then completely ghosted me. Incredibly frustrating. I have someone reputable that services a family member’s pool near by that I can call. Should have done that in the first place.
 
The fix is getting the ch down through water exchange - to be honest a “professional” will probably throw more stuff in there that only complicates things.
You can do small exchanges but it uses more water overall.
You should be able to drain to your sewer clean out without flooding anything provided you are on city sewer not septic.

The no drain exchange poses no risk to your plaster as the water level in the pool will not change & shouldn’t take more than a day to complete. Then you can begin the
SLAM Process to deal with your algae.
 
The fix is getting the ch down through water exchange - to be honest a “professional” will probably throw more stuff in there that only complicates things.
You can do small exchanges but it uses more water overall.
You should be able to drain to your sewer clean out without flooding anything provided you are on city sewer not septic.

The no drain exchange poses no risk to your plaster as the water level in the pool will not change & shouldn’t take more than a day to complete. Then you can begin the
SLAM Process to deal with your algae.
Thank you. We are on a septic and community well. We don’t have a sewer cleanout, so the water just drains into my side yard and flows toward the street. We don’t have a drainage ditch either to direct the water so it just runs over the street into my neighbor’s yard.
 
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Thank you. We are on a septic and community well. We don’t have a sewer cleanout, so the water just drains into my side yard and flows toward the street. We don’t have a drainage ditch either to direct the water so it just runs over the street into my neighbor’s yard.
And that’s if I use my pool drain to waste. If I buy a pump I could drain the water into a larger section of my years. Either way it will eventually reach one of my neighbor’s yards.
 
If small drains & refills is all you can do it will eventually work to lower ch so long as you stop using the cal hypo too!
I still suggest you do the no drain method to prevent your plaster from drying out.
Even a 50% exchange would get you in a much better place.
 

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