Simplifying BBB for very small pools (e.g. Intex)
- Thread starter PaulR
- Start date
Just saw this on the HTH site and thought I'd share. Of course, they are trying to sell HTH products but I think that the layout is pretty basic and informative:
http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/HTH/Docs/HTH_Pop_Up_Pool_Care_Guide.pdf
http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/HTH/Docs/HTH_Pop_Up_Pool_Care_Guide.pdf
actually, the basic advice in the guide is not far off from what we have been arguing about! 
Okay folks, I’ve waded through the four-five pages of discussion for days and really tried to boil it down into something that both resembles sound pool management and is simple to do (both in acquiring supplies and in daily practice).
Coming to a consensus on exactly what to recommend is hard b/c of so many of the issues we’ve raised in discussion…availability of six-way tests, copper in the algaecides, can’t find dichlor, an owner will use too much dichlor and raise CYA through the roof. But, in the interest of the greater good, can we all agree that sanitation is the priority? Algae-prevention is secondary b/c of the relative easy of dumping and refilling these pools, right?
So if we think of an Intex pool in these terms, I'd suggest starting with something along these lines:
So...if sanitation is our priority, the simplest suggestion is to test pH and chlorine daily, adjusting pH as appropriate and adding bleach as necessary. Since chlorine degrades so quickly in direct sunlight, the 6ppm someone suggested as a nightly target might not last, so suggest an additional 2ppm or so dose of chlorine an hour before swimming (kids will survive the wait, and you can plan ahead if you know you need to do it). Add shock-level bleach in the evening once per week (as calculated by the pool calc -- there will be no checking of the shock level afterward as the two-way test only goes up to 5). This method requires the purchase of a two-way drop test kit and some 6% bleach. It isn't perfect, as we all know, but it's basic and covers sanitation for most average families.
That's about as basic as you get, in terms of what you purchase, what you do, and how you do it.
Now, step two would be to consider algae control and prevention. There are two options here for the Intex owner to consider. Option 1 is to dump and refill. Option 2 is to take some additional step to reduce the likelihood of algae growth in the first place. Option 1 will be the preference for some owners...it's easy if you have city water and a small pool, doesn't require a lot of thought or additional testing, chemicals, etc. Option 2 was my preference when I started out with our Intex b/c I live in the country on well water and have a =/-5400 gal pool. Refilling that on a well in a dry summer isn't possible. Option 2 would also be recommended for Intex owners using their pools as "starter" pools -- gives good practice for later.
Option 1 is simple...drain, scrub, refill and start the process again.
Option 2...step one is add CYA, whether by purchasing it outright (I got a small container at walmart...can't remember the pounds, but it was just enough to get a 5000 gal pool to 40, as I recall) or through using dichlor, as others in this forum have outlined. Not going to worry about testing CYA at the moment...just put in what you need to get to a CYA of 40 and no more (remember, we're going for simple and there were concerns about the availablility of the 6-way drop test). Most everyone should be able to find either CYA or dichlor, and state up front "don't plan to use it all" if necessary. That way they're at least forewarned. Consider weekly doses of algaecide. Refer to pool school for more info.
I haven't covered any of the run the pump, change the filter, brush the pool, clean the debris out, etc. b/c we all agree that has to be done...I was trying to come up with a plan that helped resolve the differing opinion.
So, everyone...thoughts or comments?
Coming to a consensus on exactly what to recommend is hard b/c of so many of the issues we’ve raised in discussion…availability of six-way tests, copper in the algaecides, can’t find dichlor, an owner will use too much dichlor and raise CYA through the roof. But, in the interest of the greater good, can we all agree that sanitation is the priority? Algae-prevention is secondary b/c of the relative easy of dumping and refilling these pools, right?
So if we think of an Intex pool in these terms, I'd suggest starting with something along these lines:
So...if sanitation is our priority, the simplest suggestion is to test pH and chlorine daily, adjusting pH as appropriate and adding bleach as necessary. Since chlorine degrades so quickly in direct sunlight, the 6ppm someone suggested as a nightly target might not last, so suggest an additional 2ppm or so dose of chlorine an hour before swimming (kids will survive the wait, and you can plan ahead if you know you need to do it). Add shock-level bleach in the evening once per week (as calculated by the pool calc -- there will be no checking of the shock level afterward as the two-way test only goes up to 5). This method requires the purchase of a two-way drop test kit and some 6% bleach. It isn't perfect, as we all know, but it's basic and covers sanitation for most average families.
That's about as basic as you get, in terms of what you purchase, what you do, and how you do it.
Now, step two would be to consider algae control and prevention. There are two options here for the Intex owner to consider. Option 1 is to dump and refill. Option 2 is to take some additional step to reduce the likelihood of algae growth in the first place. Option 1 will be the preference for some owners...it's easy if you have city water and a small pool, doesn't require a lot of thought or additional testing, chemicals, etc. Option 2 was my preference when I started out with our Intex b/c I live in the country on well water and have a =/-5400 gal pool. Refilling that on a well in a dry summer isn't possible. Option 2 would also be recommended for Intex owners using their pools as "starter" pools -- gives good practice for later.
Option 1 is simple...drain, scrub, refill and start the process again.
Option 2...step one is add CYA, whether by purchasing it outright (I got a small container at walmart...can't remember the pounds, but it was just enough to get a 5000 gal pool to 40, as I recall) or through using dichlor, as others in this forum have outlined. Not going to worry about testing CYA at the moment...just put in what you need to get to a CYA of 40 and no more (remember, we're going for simple and there were concerns about the availablility of the 6-way drop test). Most everyone should be able to find either CYA or dichlor, and state up front "don't plan to use it all" if necessary. That way they're at least forewarned. Consider weekly doses of algaecide. Refer to pool school for more info.
I haven't covered any of the run the pump, change the filter, brush the pool, clean the debris out, etc. b/c we all agree that has to be done...I was trying to come up with a plan that helped resolve the differing opinion.
So, everyone...thoughts or comments?
ALL: I've been reading this site for about ten days, which is also how long I've owned a pool. Novice to say the least! However, my inexperience may be a plus with respect to being able to tell you what information I would have liked to read my first time visiting the site. No doubt some Intex users will want to delve deeper, but here is the info I think would be nice in an introductory article for beginners with very small pools. In some areas I know I'm completely guessing and in those cases I prompte you with a FORUM PLEASE HELP type notation. I may well be completely off on other areas not flagged, and in those cases please fix them. It does seem difficult to put all this info in a short list of to-do's, but it seems to me that people taking the time to be on this site can read it once all the way through for a primer, and then refer back to parts as needed or post a particular question. If you keep seeing the same questions posed, or if one part or another is prompting posts asking for clarification, you'll know you need to add to or amend the main article.
I would take care not use the word "shock" at all in the article --- just say add (x times) more bleach than the normal dose or (x cups per y gallons) -- "shock" is just confusing since there is a product called that (and consumes almost a whole shelf at Walmart) and it is a completely different chemical than you want us to add. If you feel the need to use the term, please define it up front so no ones sees it and runs out to buy "hth Shock."
Here's my attempt - I know for sure someone needs to fix the part where I try to say how you know when you've used dichlor long enough without doing a CYA test -- my point is this is a format I would find useful if the info was accurate.
Start of proposed article:
BBB METHOD FOR VERY SMALL (INTEX-TYPE) POOLS (IE, 5000 GALLONS OR LESS)
This is an introduction intended for first-timers setting up a very small pool intended to last the whole season, or for very small pool owners who want to convert to the BBB method from other methods of sanitation. While the chemistry does not change for bigger pools, bigger pools will need more sensitive tests to be conducted, and will require more precision, and likely will involve chemicals never needed for very small pools since the option to dump and refill larger or in ground pools is not as practical. Experts beware -- you will be able to find fault with the explanations below, but for purposes of a very small Intex-type pool, they are accurate enough and we won't needlessly scare anyone off.
A. VERY BASIC INTRODUCTION TO BBB METHOD SIMPLIFIED FOR VERY SMALL POOLS (5000 GALLONS OR LESS):
1. Very simply, if you are not going to be dumping your pool every two days or so like you did with a regular inflatable, you need to sanitize the water to prevent things like algae from forming. To sanitize your water, you must have chlorine in the pool at all times.
2. There are a number of ways to add chlorine. BBB is an alternative to the "starter kits" of chemicals you may have found in the same aisle as your pool. The hallmark of BBB is that chlorine will be added primarily by the introduction of regular household bleach, which has the chlorine you need without a bunch of other things like calcium and copper that you don't need and which are found in the chemical cocktails used in the "starter kits." The chlorine itself in the bleach is the same chlorine found in the "starter kits" -- it is safe once in the pool water.
3. Chlorine by itself has a pretty short lifespan in a pool. It gets eaten up by sunlight and also organics (stuff your bodies leave in the pool). In order to have chlorine stay effective longer, in the very beginning of having your pool filled for the season you will need to add what is called a chlorine stabilizer (sometimes referred to as a conditioner), which will slow the consumption of chlorine. Once the stabilizer is in your water, it never leaves -- so it is important to not add too much too quickly, and to not keep adding for so long that too much accumulates in the pool. Too much stabilizer is not a good thing. The stabilizer is also referred to as CYA.
4. You will likely only need to test for two things on a daily basis -- chlorine level and pH level. The testing is easy -- fill a special test kit vial with pool water, add a prescribed number of drops of a reagent provided with the kit, and observe the reading. Based on the reading, you will soon learn what you should add to keep the chlorine and pH levels where they should be.
5. If you stick to the BBB plan from the start (gradually get your CYA level up to between 40 and 50 ppm, test chlorine and pH daily, and add bleach as needed to keep your chlorine levels between 2 and 5) you will have a healthy, clean, enjoyable pool for your family all season with minimal time, minimum effort, and without the risks associated with some other sanitation methods (ie, green hair; green water; green leaving your wallet).
B. ABOUT TO BUY A POOL? First thing to do is figure out what size you want. Check out the area you plan to place it in -- it should be close enough to a GFCI outlet that an extension cord is not needed for the pump/filter; should be fairly level (ususally better to dig down to level than to build up because water is very heavy and often squishes anything used to build up a space, ruining the levelness; should not have danger zones around it -- ie, an air conditioning unit or retaining wall that will invite the kids to dive off it into to a much too shallow pool.
Once you know the space you have available, buy the pool that fits your space and needs. Pool depths will vary. Keep in mind that if you buy a deeper pool than you want the first year (ie, you want the kids to grow into it), you'll still need to fill it to a point where the pump will work, so you won't be able, for instance, to buy a 42" deep pool and only fill it to 30 inches the first year while the kids learn to swim.
The next thing to do is figure our what style of pool you want -- the kind with the inflatable ring or the kind with the steel frame. Can't really go wrong with either, but here are few considerations:
Easy Set (Inflatable Ring):
Pros: inexpensive (but shop around - finding which big box has them on sale can save twenty or thirty bucks); very quick and easy to set up; gets the job done; forgiving of a little bit less than level spot for the pool
Cons: hard to clean -- if need to clean the inside when it is empty it is difficult because it collapses on itself when not full of water; harder to dry out at the end of the season for storage, again because once drained it collapses on itself.
Frame Type:
Pros: can also be found on good sales; easier to clean inside because even when empty it stands upright; still easy to set up, but does take more effort and time; easier to dry out before storage because it can air-dry after emptying.
Cons: more pieces to store in the off-season; costs more; more important to have leveler ground.
C. WHAT TO BUY DAY ONE: (FORUM -- if someone could add photos here from the encyclopedia or add a link to the encyclopedia, it might help)
1. Pool
2. Plastic or glass measuring cup that can be dedicated to pool use only (no food)
3. Test kit to monitor pool chemicals. If your pool holds 5000 gallons or less, a good choice is the hth 6-way test kit (some Walmarts carry it for about $20). If your pool is small enough that you don't mind dumping it and starting over if things get out of whack, and you can't find the 6-way kit, just get a five dollar or so test kit that tests chlorine and pH. That can get you through several months if you stay on top of it daily. Its possible, however, that you'll eventually wish you could do what is called a CYA test that can be done with the 6-way but not the 3-way from hth.
4. Chlorine Bleach (The first "B" in BBB). You want it to be unscented and look for 6% concentration. Store brands are fine, as is Chlorox. Chlorine must always be present in your pool. It is what sanitizes it and prevents things like algae.
5. Dichlor. This is one of the few things you will need to add to your pool that may not be readily available in a super market or Home Depot type place (although some Home Depots apparently do sell it, probably near hot tub supplies). Dichlor will almost certainly be available in a pool store. It is granular - be sure what you are buying lists the active ingredient as dichloro-s-triazinetrione or Sodium dichloroisocyanurate. Buy about 1 pound for every 1000 gallons of water your pool holds -- but unless it is difficult to get to the store to buy it, under-buy rather than over-buy. The pool store guy will tell you it is not what you want. Ignore him. This is a product you will use primarily in the first week to ten days or so of having your pool filled, then you will stop using it. Its purpose is to introduce the stabilizing agent into your water so that the chlorine in the bleach is not used up so quickly by sunlight (dichlor also adds chlorine to the pool, which is used up just like the chlorine in the bleach). Do not over-use the dichlor -- unlike the chlorine, the stabilizer in dichlor does not get used up and stays in your pool until you dump it.
6. Buy extra filter cartridges. In the beginning, while you are getting your pool chemistry built up, you will probably need to change the filter daily or at least every two days. They can be pressure washed with the garden hose, and brushed lightly when dried out, and reused. In the beginning it is nice to have two or three you can rotate.
7. A net designed to get grass and stuff out of the pool.
8. A cover is not required from a chemical standpoint, but also does not hurt. Having a cover on during the day, however, may make a difference in how much chlorine you need to add, since sunlight eats up chlorine. Whether or not the pool is covered during the day should be included with any test results you post, and you should probably let your pool go topless every couple days.
D. THINGS YOU MIGHT NEED TO BUY LATER1. Baking Soda (the second "B" in BBB). The kind you bake with -- Arm and Hammer or a house brand. Baking soda will raise a low TA level. It is unlikely you will need to get this specific, so don't worry about getting the baking soda or testing TA unless you are advised to after posting your numbers in the event of a problem with your pool or unexpected test readings.
2. Muratic Acid. Available at Home Depot type stores. Muratic Acid is (FORUM -- liquid, powder???) and will lower a pool's pH.
3. Borax (the third "B" in BBB). Borax is available in the laundry detergent aisle - look for a green box called 20 Mule Team. Borax will raise a pool's pH.
E. WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU ARE READY TO SET UP THE POOL
1. Place the Easy-Set or build the frame set pool in the level spot you picked out earlier.
2. Hook up the pump/filter device. Confirm the cord reaches an appropriate outlet.
3. Fill the pool.
F. BEGIN THE CHEMICAL REGIMEN:
1. Sprinkle in one ounce of dichlor. Sprinkle it in front of the where the pump pumps water into the pool. One ounce of dichlor is just under 1/4 cup. Swirl it around well and run the pump for an hour or longer (but don't run it while the pool is in use)
2. Swim starting 1 hour after adding the dichlor. (FORUM -- I made this part up -- how long do we need to wait to swim after adding dichlor?)
3. The plan is to add one ounce of dichlor and little or no liquid bleach each day for six to ten days. This should keep your chlorine level high enough to sanitize, and will gradually build up your CYA level. Do not rush the introduction of the dichlor - remember, once it is in your pool you can't get it out - so, slow and steady will get you in your pool right away and keep you in your pool for the long haul. Once your CYA level is correct, you will switch to adding only liquid bleach. Because the CYA you've built up in the pool will stabilize it, the bleach you add will last longer and be more effective. Too much CYA will make your bleach ineffective. You can monitor your CYA in a number of ways -- one is you can actually test for it, but this is a slightly more complicated test and really not necessary for most of these very small pools (5000 gallons or less). A reliable way to measure CYA is to monitor your chlorine levels DAILY. So, go to step 4.
4. TESTING. Test your chlorine and pH levels daily. You want to test the water that is about 18" below the surface and from the opposite side from where the pump pumps water into the pool. (FORUM - I made this up, may have read it somewhere in an hth pamphlet?)
a. CHLORINE: You test chlorine by putting drops of a reagent called OTO into a sample of pool water. If you are browsing around this site or other places on the web, you will likely see references to what your Free Chlorine (FC) levels should be. FC is important, but knowing its level as opposed to total chlorine (which is what the OTO tests for in the hth testing kits) is not important on pools as small as this article is intended for. For your purposes, use the OTO test and assume it is giving you a Free Chlorine reading (the hth test kit will have it labeled as Cl -- that's the chlorine number we want to know). During this stabilizer build-up phase in the first ten days or so, you want your reading for chlorine to be between 3 and 5, with 3 being ideal and 5 being a target since as the chlorine dissipates, it will hopefully level off at a 3.
Between days 1 and 10 of having your pool, try to add the dichlor each evening. During days 1 through 10, plan on testing the water right before you add the chemicals. If you get a chlorine reading of 1 or less, add 1 cup of bleach to the pool for every 1000 gallons of water in addition to the regular ounce of dichlor. Do not raise the dichlor dose. If your chlorine reading is between 2 and 3, add the dichlor and no liquid bleach. If your chlorine reading is 4 or 5, you can skip the dichlor that day -- however, if you are testing in the morning and get a 4 or 5, you should re-test that midday or evening to be sure the chlorine level has held - if the chlorine has fallen to less than 3, add the ounce of dichlor. (FORUM -- I totally made this up based on what I've understood reading various parts of TFP).
Between days 1 and 10 when you are building up your CYA level you should be able to use your pool continuously (allowing 1 hour after adding the dichlor) -- the test numbers will fluctuate a bit, and that is okay. If at any point in the day you choose to test the water, and a reading on chlorine is below 2, add a cup of bleach for every 1000 gallons in the pool to carry you through to the next regularly scheduled dichlor dose, assuming that is more than a couple hours away. You can swim right after mixing in the bleach well.
b. pH: The pH value is as important as the chlorine level. It should be between 7.2 and 7.8, with 7.5 being ideal. (FORUM -- can someone add a quick sentence stating what pH in a pool does -- as in chlorine acts as a sanitizer). If your pH level goes below 7.2 or above 7.8, post your numbers on this site and someone will coach you on what to do. They will need to know --
i. your pool type and capacity in gallons;
ii. what the appearance of the water is;
iii. what your current chlorine and pH test levels are;
iv. when you last added what (bleach, dichlor, etc) to the water, including the amounts added
v. if your pool is covered during the day
vi. what type of test kit you have so they know if they should direct you take a reading other than chlorine and pH
Generally, if pH is too low you will be told to add Borax. If pH is too high you will be told to add muratic acid. You could go buy a small portion of whichever you'll need based on your numbers, while waiting for a response to your post.
After posting, await a response before adding anything to the pool (other than liquid bleach if needed to swim while you wait) -- you'll often get a response within an hour or so. While waiting, go ahead and use the pool as long as the chlorine reading is at least a 2 and the pH level is (FORUM - is there a pH that would say don't swim?) -- if chlorine is below a 2, add 1 cup bleach for every 1000 gallons capacity, wait 10 minutes or so, and swim.
5. WHEN TO STOP ADDING DICHLOR. IMPORTANT!! Depending on the size of your pool, you should start to see your chlorine levels being more consistent after about six to ten days of using dichlor. Remember, the dichlor's job is to stabilize the chlorine so that it lasts longer in the pool. So, after about ten days of one ounce of dichlor per day, your chlorine level will probably be holding at 3 after 24 hours of no dichlor being added. At that point, you can assume you have enough CYA in your water and it is time to stop using the dichlor -- even if you still have 1/2 a bottle left!! (FORUM -- Help explain how to know when to stop using dichlor if you don't have a CYA test -- I'm totally guessing on thsi). Save the remainder of the dichlor just in case something happens and you need to start over with fresh water. If you'd like, you can test for CYA (if you bought a 6-way test kit) or take a sample of water to a pool store. You want your CYA reading to be between 40 and 50 ppm.
6. LIFE AFTER DICHLOR. Starting the day you determine you are done with dichlor, add 1 cup bleach for every 1000 gallons and see what happens the next evening. If your chlorine level has stayed at between 2 and 5, add 1 cup bleach per 1000 gallons each day and keep testing daily. If the chlorine level dips below 2, that is an indicator that you need to add more bleach. If the chlorine level dips down below 1, post your numbers and the experts will consider if you stopped the dichlor too soon and may want you to start that up again, or perhaps will want you to do the actual CYA test. If chlorine dips below 2, add 1 cup bleach per 1000 gallons of water and enjoy a swim while you are waiting for the experts to figure out why the chlorine level is not holding.
7. USE COMMON SENSE.
a. If your chlorine level tests low (a light 3 or below), add more bleach. Chlorine is used up by sunlight and also depletes more quickly the more often and more people that use the pool. If your chlorine level is testing high, cut back a little on the bleach.
b. If your pool water looks green or cloudy, you might just want to dump it and start over - or, post a good set of test results (chlorine, pH, and CYA if you know it) including when, what and how much chemical you've added to the pool in the preceding 24 or 48 hours, and pool type/volume and await an expert's advice (which might be to dump it and start over).
c. Enjoy your pool and don't obsess on the chemicals aspect - save that for when/if you get a pool greater than 5000 gallons. If you stick to the schedule outlined above you should not get a dangerously high chlorine level (which would be over 7) and if you are getting low readings, just add bleach and swim until you figure it out. If all else fails, with these pools you can dump, clean, and start over. However, many people using this method have successfully kept these pools going all season long without ever having to drain and re-fill. Frequent testing is the key!!
8. POST QUESTIONS.
The hope is that if you follow the above schedule, you will enjoy clear and clean water all season. However, everyone's starting water has a different chemical make-up; everyone's weather is different; everyone's use is different. There may be times when you get unexpected test results or the water appears or feels "off" -- when that happens post a question including details. It is helpful if you create a signature block that will be attached to each post containing the following info:
a. Pool capacity in gallons
b. Pool type (above-ground, Easy Set or frame, etc)
c. Type of test kit you own
d. Current readings (Clorine and pH at a minimum, CYA if you know it as long as you have done dichlor for at least 6 days -- if not, don't bother testing the CYA)
e. Your location (climate can make a difference)
9. FLEXIBILITY.
Sometimes even good intentions prevent adherence to the above advice. For example, if you are unable to buy 6% bleach for some reason, don't abandon BBB -- just post what bleach you have and someone will help with the amounts. If you are going on a vacation and can't test or add chlorine daily, post your situation and someone will help you figure out a solution (maybe adding chlorine via a tablet like comes with "starter kits" for a short time). If you've had a run of sunless days during the initial CYA-building days (when you are adding dichlor) you might want to post to be sure you should keep adding it or if you should wait for Mr. Sun's return.
ENJOY, and feel free to post questions.
END of PROPOSED ARTICLE
FORUM -- If you took the time to read this DRAFT, thanks. I apologize in advance if I have horribly missed the mark, and hopefully I have enough caveats that no one relies on this before you folks make it more accurate. Thanks again for all your help, time, and attention to TFP -- it is truly a terrific site that had an immediate effect on my family's ability to enjoy our first "permanent" pool.
Kindly,
Connor
_________________
1000 Gallons (10' x 30" Easy Set AG pool)
Using Filter/pump that came with it - D cartridge
TRYING TO USE BBB SYSTEM if that alters advice
Climate/Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
I would take care not use the word "shock" at all in the article --- just say add (x times) more bleach than the normal dose or (x cups per y gallons) -- "shock" is just confusing since there is a product called that (and consumes almost a whole shelf at Walmart) and it is a completely different chemical than you want us to add. If you feel the need to use the term, please define it up front so no ones sees it and runs out to buy "hth Shock."
Here's my attempt - I know for sure someone needs to fix the part where I try to say how you know when you've used dichlor long enough without doing a CYA test -- my point is this is a format I would find useful if the info was accurate.
Start of proposed article:
BBB METHOD FOR VERY SMALL (INTEX-TYPE) POOLS (IE, 5000 GALLONS OR LESS)
This is an introduction intended for first-timers setting up a very small pool intended to last the whole season, or for very small pool owners who want to convert to the BBB method from other methods of sanitation. While the chemistry does not change for bigger pools, bigger pools will need more sensitive tests to be conducted, and will require more precision, and likely will involve chemicals never needed for very small pools since the option to dump and refill larger or in ground pools is not as practical. Experts beware -- you will be able to find fault with the explanations below, but for purposes of a very small Intex-type pool, they are accurate enough and we won't needlessly scare anyone off.
A. VERY BASIC INTRODUCTION TO BBB METHOD SIMPLIFIED FOR VERY SMALL POOLS (5000 GALLONS OR LESS):
1. Very simply, if you are not going to be dumping your pool every two days or so like you did with a regular inflatable, you need to sanitize the water to prevent things like algae from forming. To sanitize your water, you must have chlorine in the pool at all times.
2. There are a number of ways to add chlorine. BBB is an alternative to the "starter kits" of chemicals you may have found in the same aisle as your pool. The hallmark of BBB is that chlorine will be added primarily by the introduction of regular household bleach, which has the chlorine you need without a bunch of other things like calcium and copper that you don't need and which are found in the chemical cocktails used in the "starter kits." The chlorine itself in the bleach is the same chlorine found in the "starter kits" -- it is safe once in the pool water.
3. Chlorine by itself has a pretty short lifespan in a pool. It gets eaten up by sunlight and also organics (stuff your bodies leave in the pool). In order to have chlorine stay effective longer, in the very beginning of having your pool filled for the season you will need to add what is called a chlorine stabilizer (sometimes referred to as a conditioner), which will slow the consumption of chlorine. Once the stabilizer is in your water, it never leaves -- so it is important to not add too much too quickly, and to not keep adding for so long that too much accumulates in the pool. Too much stabilizer is not a good thing. The stabilizer is also referred to as CYA.
4. You will likely only need to test for two things on a daily basis -- chlorine level and pH level. The testing is easy -- fill a special test kit vial with pool water, add a prescribed number of drops of a reagent provided with the kit, and observe the reading. Based on the reading, you will soon learn what you should add to keep the chlorine and pH levels where they should be.
5. If you stick to the BBB plan from the start (gradually get your CYA level up to between 40 and 50 ppm, test chlorine and pH daily, and add bleach as needed to keep your chlorine levels between 2 and 5) you will have a healthy, clean, enjoyable pool for your family all season with minimal time, minimum effort, and without the risks associated with some other sanitation methods (ie, green hair; green water; green leaving your wallet).
B. ABOUT TO BUY A POOL? First thing to do is figure out what size you want. Check out the area you plan to place it in -- it should be close enough to a GFCI outlet that an extension cord is not needed for the pump/filter; should be fairly level (ususally better to dig down to level than to build up because water is very heavy and often squishes anything used to build up a space, ruining the levelness; should not have danger zones around it -- ie, an air conditioning unit or retaining wall that will invite the kids to dive off it into to a much too shallow pool.
Once you know the space you have available, buy the pool that fits your space and needs. Pool depths will vary. Keep in mind that if you buy a deeper pool than you want the first year (ie, you want the kids to grow into it), you'll still need to fill it to a point where the pump will work, so you won't be able, for instance, to buy a 42" deep pool and only fill it to 30 inches the first year while the kids learn to swim.
The next thing to do is figure our what style of pool you want -- the kind with the inflatable ring or the kind with the steel frame. Can't really go wrong with either, but here are few considerations:
Easy Set (Inflatable Ring):
Pros: inexpensive (but shop around - finding which big box has them on sale can save twenty or thirty bucks); very quick and easy to set up; gets the job done; forgiving of a little bit less than level spot for the pool
Cons: hard to clean -- if need to clean the inside when it is empty it is difficult because it collapses on itself when not full of water; harder to dry out at the end of the season for storage, again because once drained it collapses on itself.
Frame Type:
Pros: can also be found on good sales; easier to clean inside because even when empty it stands upright; still easy to set up, but does take more effort and time; easier to dry out before storage because it can air-dry after emptying.
Cons: more pieces to store in the off-season; costs more; more important to have leveler ground.
C. WHAT TO BUY DAY ONE: (FORUM -- if someone could add photos here from the encyclopedia or add a link to the encyclopedia, it might help)
1. Pool
2. Plastic or glass measuring cup that can be dedicated to pool use only (no food)
3. Test kit to monitor pool chemicals. If your pool holds 5000 gallons or less, a good choice is the hth 6-way test kit (some Walmarts carry it for about $20). If your pool is small enough that you don't mind dumping it and starting over if things get out of whack, and you can't find the 6-way kit, just get a five dollar or so test kit that tests chlorine and pH. That can get you through several months if you stay on top of it daily. Its possible, however, that you'll eventually wish you could do what is called a CYA test that can be done with the 6-way but not the 3-way from hth.
4. Chlorine Bleach (The first "B" in BBB). You want it to be unscented and look for 6% concentration. Store brands are fine, as is Chlorox. Chlorine must always be present in your pool. It is what sanitizes it and prevents things like algae.
5. Dichlor. This is one of the few things you will need to add to your pool that may not be readily available in a super market or Home Depot type place (although some Home Depots apparently do sell it, probably near hot tub supplies). Dichlor will almost certainly be available in a pool store. It is granular - be sure what you are buying lists the active ingredient as dichloro-s-triazinetrione or Sodium dichloroisocyanurate. Buy about 1 pound for every 1000 gallons of water your pool holds -- but unless it is difficult to get to the store to buy it, under-buy rather than over-buy. The pool store guy will tell you it is not what you want. Ignore him. This is a product you will use primarily in the first week to ten days or so of having your pool filled, then you will stop using it. Its purpose is to introduce the stabilizing agent into your water so that the chlorine in the bleach is not used up so quickly by sunlight (dichlor also adds chlorine to the pool, which is used up just like the chlorine in the bleach). Do not over-use the dichlor -- unlike the chlorine, the stabilizer in dichlor does not get used up and stays in your pool until you dump it.
6. Buy extra filter cartridges. In the beginning, while you are getting your pool chemistry built up, you will probably need to change the filter daily or at least every two days. They can be pressure washed with the garden hose, and brushed lightly when dried out, and reused. In the beginning it is nice to have two or three you can rotate.
7. A net designed to get grass and stuff out of the pool.
8. A cover is not required from a chemical standpoint, but also does not hurt. Having a cover on during the day, however, may make a difference in how much chlorine you need to add, since sunlight eats up chlorine. Whether or not the pool is covered during the day should be included with any test results you post, and you should probably let your pool go topless every couple days.
D. THINGS YOU MIGHT NEED TO BUY LATER1. Baking Soda (the second "B" in BBB). The kind you bake with -- Arm and Hammer or a house brand. Baking soda will raise a low TA level. It is unlikely you will need to get this specific, so don't worry about getting the baking soda or testing TA unless you are advised to after posting your numbers in the event of a problem with your pool or unexpected test readings.
2. Muratic Acid. Available at Home Depot type stores. Muratic Acid is (FORUM -- liquid, powder???) and will lower a pool's pH.
3. Borax (the third "B" in BBB). Borax is available in the laundry detergent aisle - look for a green box called 20 Mule Team. Borax will raise a pool's pH.
E. WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU ARE READY TO SET UP THE POOL
1. Place the Easy-Set or build the frame set pool in the level spot you picked out earlier.
2. Hook up the pump/filter device. Confirm the cord reaches an appropriate outlet.
3. Fill the pool.
F. BEGIN THE CHEMICAL REGIMEN:
1. Sprinkle in one ounce of dichlor. Sprinkle it in front of the where the pump pumps water into the pool. One ounce of dichlor is just under 1/4 cup. Swirl it around well and run the pump for an hour or longer (but don't run it while the pool is in use)
2. Swim starting 1 hour after adding the dichlor. (FORUM -- I made this part up -- how long do we need to wait to swim after adding dichlor?)
3. The plan is to add one ounce of dichlor and little or no liquid bleach each day for six to ten days. This should keep your chlorine level high enough to sanitize, and will gradually build up your CYA level. Do not rush the introduction of the dichlor - remember, once it is in your pool you can't get it out - so, slow and steady will get you in your pool right away and keep you in your pool for the long haul. Once your CYA level is correct, you will switch to adding only liquid bleach. Because the CYA you've built up in the pool will stabilize it, the bleach you add will last longer and be more effective. Too much CYA will make your bleach ineffective. You can monitor your CYA in a number of ways -- one is you can actually test for it, but this is a slightly more complicated test and really not necessary for most of these very small pools (5000 gallons or less). A reliable way to measure CYA is to monitor your chlorine levels DAILY. So, go to step 4.
4. TESTING. Test your chlorine and pH levels daily. You want to test the water that is about 18" below the surface and from the opposite side from where the pump pumps water into the pool. (FORUM - I made this up, may have read it somewhere in an hth pamphlet?)
a. CHLORINE: You test chlorine by putting drops of a reagent called OTO into a sample of pool water. If you are browsing around this site or other places on the web, you will likely see references to what your Free Chlorine (FC) levels should be. FC is important, but knowing its level as opposed to total chlorine (which is what the OTO tests for in the hth testing kits) is not important on pools as small as this article is intended for. For your purposes, use the OTO test and assume it is giving you a Free Chlorine reading (the hth test kit will have it labeled as Cl -- that's the chlorine number we want to know). During this stabilizer build-up phase in the first ten days or so, you want your reading for chlorine to be between 3 and 5, with 3 being ideal and 5 being a target since as the chlorine dissipates, it will hopefully level off at a 3.
Between days 1 and 10 of having your pool, try to add the dichlor each evening. During days 1 through 10, plan on testing the water right before you add the chemicals. If you get a chlorine reading of 1 or less, add 1 cup of bleach to the pool for every 1000 gallons of water in addition to the regular ounce of dichlor. Do not raise the dichlor dose. If your chlorine reading is between 2 and 3, add the dichlor and no liquid bleach. If your chlorine reading is 4 or 5, you can skip the dichlor that day -- however, if you are testing in the morning and get a 4 or 5, you should re-test that midday or evening to be sure the chlorine level has held - if the chlorine has fallen to less than 3, add the ounce of dichlor. (FORUM -- I totally made this up based on what I've understood reading various parts of TFP).
Between days 1 and 10 when you are building up your CYA level you should be able to use your pool continuously (allowing 1 hour after adding the dichlor) -- the test numbers will fluctuate a bit, and that is okay. If at any point in the day you choose to test the water, and a reading on chlorine is below 2, add a cup of bleach for every 1000 gallons in the pool to carry you through to the next regularly scheduled dichlor dose, assuming that is more than a couple hours away. You can swim right after mixing in the bleach well.
b. pH: The pH value is as important as the chlorine level. It should be between 7.2 and 7.8, with 7.5 being ideal. (FORUM -- can someone add a quick sentence stating what pH in a pool does -- as in chlorine acts as a sanitizer). If your pH level goes below 7.2 or above 7.8, post your numbers on this site and someone will coach you on what to do. They will need to know --
i. your pool type and capacity in gallons;
ii. what the appearance of the water is;
iii. what your current chlorine and pH test levels are;
iv. when you last added what (bleach, dichlor, etc) to the water, including the amounts added
v. if your pool is covered during the day
vi. what type of test kit you have so they know if they should direct you take a reading other than chlorine and pH
Generally, if pH is too low you will be told to add Borax. If pH is too high you will be told to add muratic acid. You could go buy a small portion of whichever you'll need based on your numbers, while waiting for a response to your post.
After posting, await a response before adding anything to the pool (other than liquid bleach if needed to swim while you wait) -- you'll often get a response within an hour or so. While waiting, go ahead and use the pool as long as the chlorine reading is at least a 2 and the pH level is (FORUM - is there a pH that would say don't swim?) -- if chlorine is below a 2, add 1 cup bleach for every 1000 gallons capacity, wait 10 minutes or so, and swim.
5. WHEN TO STOP ADDING DICHLOR. IMPORTANT!! Depending on the size of your pool, you should start to see your chlorine levels being more consistent after about six to ten days of using dichlor. Remember, the dichlor's job is to stabilize the chlorine so that it lasts longer in the pool. So, after about ten days of one ounce of dichlor per day, your chlorine level will probably be holding at 3 after 24 hours of no dichlor being added. At that point, you can assume you have enough CYA in your water and it is time to stop using the dichlor -- even if you still have 1/2 a bottle left!! (FORUM -- Help explain how to know when to stop using dichlor if you don't have a CYA test -- I'm totally guessing on thsi). Save the remainder of the dichlor just in case something happens and you need to start over with fresh water. If you'd like, you can test for CYA (if you bought a 6-way test kit) or take a sample of water to a pool store. You want your CYA reading to be between 40 and 50 ppm.
6. LIFE AFTER DICHLOR. Starting the day you determine you are done with dichlor, add 1 cup bleach for every 1000 gallons and see what happens the next evening. If your chlorine level has stayed at between 2 and 5, add 1 cup bleach per 1000 gallons each day and keep testing daily. If the chlorine level dips below 2, that is an indicator that you need to add more bleach. If the chlorine level dips down below 1, post your numbers and the experts will consider if you stopped the dichlor too soon and may want you to start that up again, or perhaps will want you to do the actual CYA test. If chlorine dips below 2, add 1 cup bleach per 1000 gallons of water and enjoy a swim while you are waiting for the experts to figure out why the chlorine level is not holding.
7. USE COMMON SENSE.
a. If your chlorine level tests low (a light 3 or below), add more bleach. Chlorine is used up by sunlight and also depletes more quickly the more often and more people that use the pool. If your chlorine level is testing high, cut back a little on the bleach.
b. If your pool water looks green or cloudy, you might just want to dump it and start over - or, post a good set of test results (chlorine, pH, and CYA if you know it) including when, what and how much chemical you've added to the pool in the preceding 24 or 48 hours, and pool type/volume and await an expert's advice (which might be to dump it and start over).
c. Enjoy your pool and don't obsess on the chemicals aspect - save that for when/if you get a pool greater than 5000 gallons. If you stick to the schedule outlined above you should not get a dangerously high chlorine level (which would be over 7) and if you are getting low readings, just add bleach and swim until you figure it out. If all else fails, with these pools you can dump, clean, and start over. However, many people using this method have successfully kept these pools going all season long without ever having to drain and re-fill. Frequent testing is the key!!
8. POST QUESTIONS.
The hope is that if you follow the above schedule, you will enjoy clear and clean water all season. However, everyone's starting water has a different chemical make-up; everyone's weather is different; everyone's use is different. There may be times when you get unexpected test results or the water appears or feels "off" -- when that happens post a question including details. It is helpful if you create a signature block that will be attached to each post containing the following info:
a. Pool capacity in gallons
b. Pool type (above-ground, Easy Set or frame, etc)
c. Type of test kit you own
d. Current readings (Clorine and pH at a minimum, CYA if you know it as long as you have done dichlor for at least 6 days -- if not, don't bother testing the CYA)
e. Your location (climate can make a difference)
9. FLEXIBILITY.
Sometimes even good intentions prevent adherence to the above advice. For example, if you are unable to buy 6% bleach for some reason, don't abandon BBB -- just post what bleach you have and someone will help with the amounts. If you are going on a vacation and can't test or add chlorine daily, post your situation and someone will help you figure out a solution (maybe adding chlorine via a tablet like comes with "starter kits" for a short time). If you've had a run of sunless days during the initial CYA-building days (when you are adding dichlor) you might want to post to be sure you should keep adding it or if you should wait for Mr. Sun's return.
ENJOY, and feel free to post questions.
END of PROPOSED ARTICLE
FORUM -- If you took the time to read this DRAFT, thanks. I apologize in advance if I have horribly missed the mark, and hopefully I have enough caveats that no one relies on this before you folks make it more accurate. Thanks again for all your help, time, and attention to TFP -- it is truly a terrific site that had an immediate effect on my family's ability to enjoy our first "permanent" pool.
Kindly,
Connor
_________________
1000 Gallons (10' x 30" Easy Set AG pool)
Using Filter/pump that came with it - D cartridge
TRYING TO USE BBB SYSTEM if that alters advice
Climate/Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
launboy
0
If it helps, here's what we've done with our Intex pool for the past 8 summers, and this one, without any major trouble. Only difference was I used the Pool Calculator instead of the numbers on the back of the bottles to get the correct amounts this year.
We've got an 18' x 42" Easyset(ring) pool. Holds about 5500 gal. according to the water meter this year.
First, we bought a sand filter and better pump.
Chemical-wise, I use the Pool Calculator to get determine the amount of CYA to add to get to 35-40 ppm. I used a (GULP) test strip to double check the level. Surprisingly, it read the amount I had expected it too, on three different strips.
Our fill water TA is about 100 and I've never had an issue with it, so it stays untouched.
PH always starts low, around 7.0, so I aerate to bring it in the 7.5-7.6 range. That usually takes about a day.
After that, all I really do for the rest of the summer is keep my FC in range using the OTO test and 12% Liquid Chlorine from the Pool Store. PH pretty much stays where I leave it, unless it drops, in which case, I aerate.
Oh, and I vacuum when needed.
That's my key to a Trouble Free summer in a Trouble Free Pool.
We've got an 18' x 42" Easyset(ring) pool. Holds about 5500 gal. according to the water meter this year.
First, we bought a sand filter and better pump.
Chemical-wise, I use the Pool Calculator to get determine the amount of CYA to add to get to 35-40 ppm. I used a (GULP) test strip to double check the level. Surprisingly, it read the amount I had expected it too, on three different strips.
Our fill water TA is about 100 and I've never had an issue with it, so it stays untouched.
PH always starts low, around 7.0, so I aerate to bring it in the 7.5-7.6 range. That usually takes about a day.
After that, all I really do for the rest of the summer is keep my FC in range using the OTO test and 12% Liquid Chlorine from the Pool Store. PH pretty much stays where I leave it, unless it drops, in which case, I aerate.
Oh, and I vacuum when needed.
That's my key to a Trouble Free summer in a Trouble Free Pool.
There are lots of great ideas here. We just need an editor/integrator to put them together into one consistent document.
Not sure if it has been mentioned... but would it be possible for Duraleigh to configure a test kit specifically for Intex users that doesn't have all the other components? It may be a cost effective option and everyone would be on the same page as far as testing. Just a thought, it seems that we have many members here battling with their Intex pools and they can be a real pain. I had mine up for all of one month before I emptied it, drug it to the other side of the yard and ordered the 27" AG that I have now.
Well, IMO, all that's needed is a test for pH and Chlorine. That test can be purchased virtually anywhere for less money than I could ship it. It simply wouldn't be cost effective to purchase a kit and have it shipped when you can get one locally.
Well, that answers that. Thanks duraleigh! 
I guess I should stay out of threads I don't belong in!
I guess I should stay out of threads I don't belong in!
I'm happy to get this together into one document. The last time I'd checked in, though, we were up in the air on a few things.
Remembering that this is "watered-down" BBB,
I believe most of us are in agreement that the pH and chlorine drop test kit are what think will work, right?
Are we going to recommend a CYA or non-CYA approach (one of the issues was the ease of finding dichlor)? An approach outlined earlier gave an option for either way...do you want to go something more like that? This makes a huge difference in what we suggest...starting up with a specific amount of dichlor and stopping its use at a certain point, or using only bleach (and maybe an algaecide). Keep in mind that if we go with a CYA approach, it will be an theoretical/assumed level, where an owner has put in a recommended amount for a specified # of gallons...there will be no way to test for it.
Do we want to recommend a routine dose of algaecide? The copper was an issue in the pages of discussion we've had. While I'm an Intex owner (for a few more days :-D) I've not used or needed an algaecide. However, I've been able to be quite consistent re: pool maintenance...not everyone will have that luxury. The benefits of an algaecide might outweigh the copper.
Like I said, I'm happy to write it, but if we could get a consensus on these...particularly the CYA or no CYA issue (or a plan A and plan B), then I'll put something together.
Remembering that this is "watered-down" BBB,
I believe most of us are in agreement that the pH and chlorine drop test kit are what think will work, right?
Are we going to recommend a CYA or non-CYA approach (one of the issues was the ease of finding dichlor)? An approach outlined earlier gave an option for either way...do you want to go something more like that? This makes a huge difference in what we suggest...starting up with a specific amount of dichlor and stopping its use at a certain point, or using only bleach (and maybe an algaecide). Keep in mind that if we go with a CYA approach, it will be an theoretical/assumed level, where an owner has put in a recommended amount for a specified # of gallons...there will be no way to test for it.
Do we want to recommend a routine dose of algaecide? The copper was an issue in the pages of discussion we've had. While I'm an Intex owner (for a few more days :-D) I've not used or needed an algaecide. However, I've been able to be quite consistent re: pool maintenance...not everyone will have that luxury. The benefits of an algaecide might outweigh the copper.
Like I said, I'm happy to write it, but if we could get a consensus on these...particularly the CYA or no CYA issue (or a plan A and plan B), then I'll put something together.
We should use a fixed startup dose of CYA, without testing. It seemed like dichlor was a good way to get that, but various people have reported that dichlor is hard to find at various stores. Therefore, it may need to be stabilizer/conditioner, or a choice of either dichlor or stabilizer/conditioner.
A drop based OTO/PH kit seems to be the consensus. They are very easy to find, though some brands are better than others. There have been a couple of suggestions to recommend the WalMart 6 way kit as an alternate, which seems like a good idea to me.
Polyquat should be recommended as an algaecide. It does not contain copper, or cause any problems. It will take care of any lapses of attention, plus it improves some of the bacterial kill rates. The only disadvantage is the expense.
A drop based OTO/PH kit seems to be the consensus. They are very easy to find, though some brands are better than others. There have been a couple of suggestions to recommend the WalMart 6 way kit as an alternate, which seems like a good idea to me.
Polyquat should be recommended as an algaecide. It does not contain copper, or cause any problems. It will take care of any lapses of attention, plus it improves some of the bacterial kill rates. The only disadvantage is the expense.
I think it should be something like, "If you can find Dichlor....." and "the alternative to Dichlor is purchasing CYA separately...."
I think it should include "a simple CL/PH test is necessary, a 6-way is a step up and probably a good idea for the larger 5,000 size pools." I still feel like people will post with a problem, and we'll say "please post a full set of test results" so they should at least be given that recommendation to start with.
And the algaecide should only include a recommendation for Polyquat 60, include the exact active ingredient's so there's no confusion, and state that it's an additional optional preventative, they'll probably have to order it online or purchase at a Pool Store, and stress that one should avoid any product with Copper listed as an active ingredient. "If you don't mind your blonde children and white dog walking around with green hair, by all means, use a copper-based product."
I think it should include "a simple CL/PH test is necessary, a 6-way is a step up and probably a good idea for the larger 5,000 size pools." I still feel like people will post with a problem, and we'll say "please post a full set of test results" so they should at least be given that recommendation to start with.
And the algaecide should only include a recommendation for Polyquat 60, include the exact active ingredient's so there's no confusion, and state that it's an additional optional preventative, they'll probably have to order it online or purchase at a Pool Store, and stress that one should avoid any product with Copper listed as an active ingredient. "If you don't mind your blonde children and white dog walking around with green hair, by all means, use a copper-based product."
Chiming in a little late here, but as a 2nd year intex user who took a while to adjust BBB to meet my needs, I think I can offer a couple important points.
One of the things that was hard for me to do at first was to trust the BBB method and not the pool store/chemical packaging reccomendations. For example, on the Aquachem 2 way (ph and cl) drop kit sold at Walmart, it has written on the kit itself that the range of 1-3 ppm is the ideal range, when this is not necessarily true. We need to be sure to stress that people should use the tools to get their readings, and then bring them here for the needed recommendations, not the recommendations on the packaging.
New people need to be reassured that BBB works. My pool is a testament to this, as we have the only intex pool in the neighborhood (and there are a lot of them) that has not (knock on wood) had to be drained and refilled due to algae.
New intex owners also need to be reminded up front that there WILL BE some time and committment required (ie frequent testing and adjusting, skimming, cleaning, vacuuming, if they want to keep their pool crystal clear.
Thank you for creating this thread. It will be a huge help to many!
One of the things that was hard for me to do at first was to trust the BBB method and not the pool store/chemical packaging reccomendations. For example, on the Aquachem 2 way (ph and cl) drop kit sold at Walmart, it has written on the kit itself that the range of 1-3 ppm is the ideal range, when this is not necessarily true. We need to be sure to stress that people should use the tools to get their readings, and then bring them here for the needed recommendations, not the recommendations on the packaging.
New people need to be reassured that BBB works. My pool is a testament to this, as we have the only intex pool in the neighborhood (and there are a lot of them) that has not (knock on wood) had to be drained and refilled due to algae.
New intex owners also need to be reminded up front that there WILL BE some time and committment required (ie frequent testing and adjusting, skimming, cleaning, vacuuming, if they want to keep their pool crystal clear.
Thank you for creating this thread. It will be a huge help to many!
Attachments
Connor (crek31) thanks for your writeup! I like the style. You cover a lot more than we were looking for, though, so let's save the site-prep and inflatable-vs-frame considerations for another time. We're sticking to the water chemistry parts for now. In that regard I have a few comments about your writeup.
Chlorine bleach: "Store brands are fine" depends on the store. I would say to look for "sodium hypochlorite 6%" on the label; if you don't see that, don't use it as your chlorine source. Some store brands don't list it at all and those are likely to be 2-3%.
Baking soda: We're ignoring TA so baking soda should not be in the small-pool formulary.
Muriatic acid: I'd rather recommend "pH Down" aka dry acid, which is granular (like dichlor). It's easier to handle. Use muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric acid, comes in gallon jugs) only if you're comfortable handling it.
Borax: Get some only if your pH is too low. Aeration (splashing) will also raise pH.
Regarding the "chemical regimen" the amount of dichlor to use each day depends on the volume of water, it's not a flat 1 oz. There's no problem with increasing CYA faster than the pace we've been talking about, it's just that if you use dichlor as your CYA source you don't want the TC to become uncomfortably high. If you find the suggested dichlor dose doesn't keep the TC high enough, it's fine to use more dichlor. Really no need to use dichlor and bleach at the same time.
You had other questions in there, hope I'm getting them all:
- in a small pool, 15-30 minutes after adding chems should be okay for swimming.
- test sample should be taken elbow deep for a grownup; near or far from the skimmer or return doesn't matter.
- what is pH? It measures the acid/base balance of the water, which matters for swimmer comfort and equipment longevity.
- when to stop using dichlor? Our intent is to say how much dichlor you should use in total, and stop when you have used that much.
Hope that answers your questions...
--paulr
Chlorine bleach: "Store brands are fine" depends on the store. I would say to look for "sodium hypochlorite 6%" on the label; if you don't see that, don't use it as your chlorine source. Some store brands don't list it at all and those are likely to be 2-3%.
Baking soda: We're ignoring TA so baking soda should not be in the small-pool formulary.
Muriatic acid: I'd rather recommend "pH Down" aka dry acid, which is granular (like dichlor). It's easier to handle. Use muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric acid, comes in gallon jugs) only if you're comfortable handling it.
Borax: Get some only if your pH is too low. Aeration (splashing) will also raise pH.
Regarding the "chemical regimen" the amount of dichlor to use each day depends on the volume of water, it's not a flat 1 oz. There's no problem with increasing CYA faster than the pace we've been talking about, it's just that if you use dichlor as your CYA source you don't want the TC to become uncomfortably high. If you find the suggested dichlor dose doesn't keep the TC high enough, it's fine to use more dichlor. Really no need to use dichlor and bleach at the same time.
You had other questions in there, hope I'm getting them all:
- in a small pool, 15-30 minutes after adding chems should be okay for swimming.
- test sample should be taken elbow deep for a grownup; near or far from the skimmer or return doesn't matter.
- what is pH? It measures the acid/base balance of the water, which matters for swimmer comfort and equipment longevity.
- when to stop using dichlor? Our intent is to say how much dichlor you should use in total, and stop when you have used that much.
Hope that answers your questions...
--paulr
Nikki, thanks for volunteering, I continue not to have a lot of extra time and have another trip coming up.
Regarding polyquat 60 I think it's optional insurance to help guard against algae. I dug up the chemical name which is "poly [oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride]" is that right? And the buyer should verify it's 60% on the label.
--paulr
Regarding polyquat 60 I think it's optional insurance to help guard against algae. I dug up the chemical name which is "poly [oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride]" is that right? And the buyer should verify it's 60% on the label.
--paulr
Okay, folks...I've tried to combine a lot of what we've discussed and it's still long (although maybe simpler). Some amounts may not be right...jump in and and correct.
So...are we closer?
Water Chemistry for Small Pools (e.g. Intex – less than 6000 gallons)
This guide covers smaller pools that have a pump and filter and which get completely drained and put away each winter. Water chemistry for small pools follows the same basic premise as it does for large pools: maintaining a minimum level of chlorine for sanitation and algae prevention, and protecting chlorine from rapid degradation from sunlight buy using a chlorine stabilizer. There are numerous components to pool water chemistry; this document provides only the most basic outline to maintain clear, sanitized water.
A few things to always remember:
Clean, sanitized water requires a few minutes of daily testing and adjustment. Get into the habit of this from the beginning.
All chemical additions should be made while the pump is running.
Filters for these pools are disposable…stock up on them. Plan to change them every couple of weeks as recommended by your pool documentation, and more frequently if problems arise.
Chlorine levels drop somewhat during the day due to sunlight. Chlorine levels also drop when in the presence of organic materials (algae, bacteria, etc.) that appear in the water (in other words, as chlorine does it’s job, it’s used up). How rapidly chlorine levels drop depends on several factors – two important ones are how much stabilizer (CYA) is present and how many people are using the pool. Think of CYA as “sunscreen†for chlorine.
Step 1
Test your fill water. For this you need a dropper test kit that tests pH and chlorine. No strips – they aren’t accurate. The test kit will also reference bromine along with the chlorine, but ignore that. Write down your pH level…you’re aiming for something between 7.2-7.8. You probably won’t have a chlorine level. Get into the habit of testing your water for pH and chlorine every day – it takes only a couple of minutes and is the key to clear, sanitized water.
Step 2
Calculate how much water your pool holds (pool calculator). Your instruction manual might tell you this. For Intex easy-set pools (the ones with the blue inflatable ring), the pool calculator doesn't work as accurately due to the sloping side walls of the easy-set style. Use the information on Intex's website here: http://www.intexcorp.com/faqs/faq-easyset.html#10 - question #10.
Step 3
Use the pool calculator to calculate how much bleach you need to raise your chlorine level to 6ppm. Also use the pool calculator to determine what you need to do to change pH if necessary (if it’s not in the good range of 7.2-7.8). Directions for the pool calculator are here: http://www.poolcalculator.com/.
[edited to clarify as per frustrated pool mom's post]
Step 4
Based on your fill water test results, the size pool you have, and the pool calculator, plan what you need to buy:
--Bleach – label should say sodium hypochlorite 6% - sometimes called “ultraâ€, ideally (it sometimes comes at lesser concentrations) with no added scent. Bleach will be your daily chlorine source to sanitize your water. Chlorine is quickly degraded by sunlight, so ideally you’ll also use a stabilizing product (CYA), explained below (see Dichlor).
--If you need to raise pH, buy Borax (in the laundry aisle…â€20 Mule Team†in a green box is a common brand)
--If you need to lower pH, buy dry acid (“pH down†pool product?)
--Polyquat 60 algaecide…poly [oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride 60%…do not buy an algaecide with copper as an ingredient…copper is what turns things green. Algaecides help prevent algae growth.
--Dichlor – chemical name is dichloro-s-triazinetrione, also called “pool shockâ€. It frequently comes in small bags. Purchase approximately _______ per 500 gallons of pool water. Dichlor adds both chlorine and CYA (stablilizer…“sunscreen†for chlorine). You will only use it for a few days, so don’t buy more than what you need.
Step 5 – the first four days
The first few days will be spent using dichlor to add chlorine while also raising your CYA level to help protect the chlorine from the degrading effects of sunlight. If you want to be able to jump into the pool as soon as it’s full, use the pool calculator to determine the amount of bleach needed to raise your chlorine level to 6ppm. Add that amount of bleach while the pump is running. Wait an hour to let it circulate before you use the pool.
The first four days, you will use dichlor to both chlorinate your pool and raise the level of CYA (chlorine stabilizer). The first evening, after you’re finished swimming, turn the pump back on, test and make any adjustments to pH. Let the pump circulate any chemicals added to adjust pH (30 minutes or so) and then add one ounce of dichlor for every 500 gallons of water. To add the dihlor, add it first to a bucket of pool water and let it dissolve, and then dump that into your pool. Let the pump run overnight. This dichlor addition will raise the chlorine level to about 8 (assuming no chlorine was added prior…if it was, the chlorine level will be a little higher, which is fine), and the CYA level to 8.
Repeat the above procedure each evening for four nights total. At the end of four nights, your CYA level should be around 30, right where it should be. After four evenings of adding dichlor, STOP USING THE DICHLOR. This is really important, even if you have extra left over. There is a complex relationship between chlorine and CYA, and too much CYA is absolutely not a good thing.
Each evening, continue to test your pH and chlorine, and make adjustments as necessary to maintain both.
Step 6 – daily pool maintenance
Continue testing your water each evening for pH and chlorine. Now that you aren’t using dichlor, bleach is your daily chlorine source. Try not to let your chlorine level fall below 2. If the chlorine level is above 2 then add enough chlorine to reach a target FC level of 4. If 2 or lower, raise FC up to 6. Chlorine is best added in the evening to protect it from sunlight for as long as possible. Also, make any adjustments necessary to keep pH in a range of 7.2-7.8 and chlorine above 2.
Step 7 – weekly maintenance
Following the directions, add the recommended amount of Polyquat 60 once a week throughout the swimming season. This will help prevent algae outbreaks, which can be very difficult to clear using the pump/filter supplied with these smaller pools.
Special circumstances
--Chlorine drops too low
If your chlorine drops below 2, plan to shock your pool using bleach. Calculate how much bleach you need to raise your chlorine level to 12 and add that much in the evening.
--Can’t find dichlor at the store
You have two choices:
1. Use the pool calculator to determine how much CYA you need to raise your level from 0 to 30 for your gallons of water, and purchase it separately. Know that unless you find a small quantity, you won’t use everything in the container (remember that too much CYA is a very bad thing). To add CYA (not dichlor), put it in a sock, tie a knot at the top of the sock and either a.)drop it into the skimmer basket and let it dissolve slowly (takes about a week) or b.) tie the sock off to a ladder, etc. (ideally near the return) to suspend it in the water until it’s dissolved. Do not broadcast the CYA into the pool and let it settle to the bottom; that is hard on the pool vinyl.
2. forgo CYA altogether (we don’t recommend this, but if you truly can’t find it, this is your option) and be diligent about maintaining chlorine levels. This will be tougher, and you will likely need to add chlorine before swimming to reach the minimum target level of 2, especially late in the afternoon, as unprotected chlorine is consumed quickly in sunlight.
--Pool water starts to turn cloudy or greenish, pool surfaces feel slippery
If the water begins turn cloudy or greenish, or pool the surfaces becomes slippery an algae bloom is likely starting to take hold. It is difficult (but not impossible) to resolve an algae bloom with the equipment included in these types of pools. Often, the easiest and quickest solution is to drain the pool, scrub the sides and bottom thoroughly, and start over. If you choose that route, start over with the water chemistry just as you did the first time.
If draining the pool doesn’t appeal to you, you need to plan on investing in a top-quality test kit (see pool school for comparisons of the two test kits TFP recommends) -- both are generally only available on-line so you'll need to plan a couple of days for shipping. Come back to the forum, read pool school two or three times, and post your questions. We’ll help you out. If a top-quality test kit isn't an option, your best best is to drain the pool. We won't be able to do much for you without the information the advanced test kits provide.
Further recommendations
The pH and chlorine test kit is the very, very basic necessity. If you want to learn more about your water chemistry, and/or you’re using this small pool as a “starter pool†before jumping into a more permanent pool, consider a more advanced test kit. A good intermediate test kit is the HTH 6-way test available at many discount/home improvement stores. In addition to chlorine and pH, it tests total alkalinity, CYA (enough for two tests) and...Recommendations for the best option in test kits can be found in pool school.
So...are we closer?
Water Chemistry for Small Pools (e.g. Intex – less than 6000 gallons)
This guide covers smaller pools that have a pump and filter and which get completely drained and put away each winter. Water chemistry for small pools follows the same basic premise as it does for large pools: maintaining a minimum level of chlorine for sanitation and algae prevention, and protecting chlorine from rapid degradation from sunlight buy using a chlorine stabilizer. There are numerous components to pool water chemistry; this document provides only the most basic outline to maintain clear, sanitized water.
A few things to always remember:
Clean, sanitized water requires a few minutes of daily testing and adjustment. Get into the habit of this from the beginning.
All chemical additions should be made while the pump is running.
Filters for these pools are disposable…stock up on them. Plan to change them every couple of weeks as recommended by your pool documentation, and more frequently if problems arise.
Chlorine levels drop somewhat during the day due to sunlight. Chlorine levels also drop when in the presence of organic materials (algae, bacteria, etc.) that appear in the water (in other words, as chlorine does it’s job, it’s used up). How rapidly chlorine levels drop depends on several factors – two important ones are how much stabilizer (CYA) is present and how many people are using the pool. Think of CYA as “sunscreen†for chlorine.
Step 1
Test your fill water. For this you need a dropper test kit that tests pH and chlorine. No strips – they aren’t accurate. The test kit will also reference bromine along with the chlorine, but ignore that. Write down your pH level…you’re aiming for something between 7.2-7.8. You probably won’t have a chlorine level. Get into the habit of testing your water for pH and chlorine every day – it takes only a couple of minutes and is the key to clear, sanitized water.
Step 2
Calculate how much water your pool holds (pool calculator). Your instruction manual might tell you this. For Intex easy-set pools (the ones with the blue inflatable ring), the pool calculator doesn't work as accurately due to the sloping side walls of the easy-set style. Use the information on Intex's website here: http://www.intexcorp.com/faqs/faq-easyset.html#10 - question #10.
Step 3
Use the pool calculator to calculate how much bleach you need to raise your chlorine level to 6ppm. Also use the pool calculator to determine what you need to do to change pH if necessary (if it’s not in the good range of 7.2-7.8). Directions for the pool calculator are here: http://www.poolcalculator.com/.
[edited to clarify as per frustrated pool mom's post]
Step 4
Based on your fill water test results, the size pool you have, and the pool calculator, plan what you need to buy:
--Bleach – label should say sodium hypochlorite 6% - sometimes called “ultraâ€, ideally (it sometimes comes at lesser concentrations) with no added scent. Bleach will be your daily chlorine source to sanitize your water. Chlorine is quickly degraded by sunlight, so ideally you’ll also use a stabilizing product (CYA), explained below (see Dichlor).
--If you need to raise pH, buy Borax (in the laundry aisle…â€20 Mule Team†in a green box is a common brand)
--If you need to lower pH, buy dry acid (“pH down†pool product?)
--Polyquat 60 algaecide…poly [oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride 60%…do not buy an algaecide with copper as an ingredient…copper is what turns things green. Algaecides help prevent algae growth.
--Dichlor – chemical name is dichloro-s-triazinetrione, also called “pool shockâ€. It frequently comes in small bags. Purchase approximately _______ per 500 gallons of pool water. Dichlor adds both chlorine and CYA (stablilizer…“sunscreen†for chlorine). You will only use it for a few days, so don’t buy more than what you need.
Step 5 – the first four days
The first few days will be spent using dichlor to add chlorine while also raising your CYA level to help protect the chlorine from the degrading effects of sunlight. If you want to be able to jump into the pool as soon as it’s full, use the pool calculator to determine the amount of bleach needed to raise your chlorine level to 6ppm. Add that amount of bleach while the pump is running. Wait an hour to let it circulate before you use the pool.
The first four days, you will use dichlor to both chlorinate your pool and raise the level of CYA (chlorine stabilizer). The first evening, after you’re finished swimming, turn the pump back on, test and make any adjustments to pH. Let the pump circulate any chemicals added to adjust pH (30 minutes or so) and then add one ounce of dichlor for every 500 gallons of water. To add the dihlor, add it first to a bucket of pool water and let it dissolve, and then dump that into your pool. Let the pump run overnight. This dichlor addition will raise the chlorine level to about 8 (assuming no chlorine was added prior…if it was, the chlorine level will be a little higher, which is fine), and the CYA level to 8.
Repeat the above procedure each evening for four nights total. At the end of four nights, your CYA level should be around 30, right where it should be. After four evenings of adding dichlor, STOP USING THE DICHLOR. This is really important, even if you have extra left over. There is a complex relationship between chlorine and CYA, and too much CYA is absolutely not a good thing.
Each evening, continue to test your pH and chlorine, and make adjustments as necessary to maintain both.
Step 6 – daily pool maintenance
Continue testing your water each evening for pH and chlorine. Now that you aren’t using dichlor, bleach is your daily chlorine source. Try not to let your chlorine level fall below 2. If the chlorine level is above 2 then add enough chlorine to reach a target FC level of 4. If 2 or lower, raise FC up to 6. Chlorine is best added in the evening to protect it from sunlight for as long as possible. Also, make any adjustments necessary to keep pH in a range of 7.2-7.8 and chlorine above 2.
Step 7 – weekly maintenance
Following the directions, add the recommended amount of Polyquat 60 once a week throughout the swimming season. This will help prevent algae outbreaks, which can be very difficult to clear using the pump/filter supplied with these smaller pools.
Special circumstances
--Chlorine drops too low
If your chlorine drops below 2, plan to shock your pool using bleach. Calculate how much bleach you need to raise your chlorine level to 12 and add that much in the evening.
--Can’t find dichlor at the store
You have two choices:
1. Use the pool calculator to determine how much CYA you need to raise your level from 0 to 30 for your gallons of water, and purchase it separately. Know that unless you find a small quantity, you won’t use everything in the container (remember that too much CYA is a very bad thing). To add CYA (not dichlor), put it in a sock, tie a knot at the top of the sock and either a.)drop it into the skimmer basket and let it dissolve slowly (takes about a week) or b.) tie the sock off to a ladder, etc. (ideally near the return) to suspend it in the water until it’s dissolved. Do not broadcast the CYA into the pool and let it settle to the bottom; that is hard on the pool vinyl.
2. forgo CYA altogether (we don’t recommend this, but if you truly can’t find it, this is your option) and be diligent about maintaining chlorine levels. This will be tougher, and you will likely need to add chlorine before swimming to reach the minimum target level of 2, especially late in the afternoon, as unprotected chlorine is consumed quickly in sunlight.
--Pool water starts to turn cloudy or greenish, pool surfaces feel slippery
If the water begins turn cloudy or greenish, or pool the surfaces becomes slippery an algae bloom is likely starting to take hold. It is difficult (but not impossible) to resolve an algae bloom with the equipment included in these types of pools. Often, the easiest and quickest solution is to drain the pool, scrub the sides and bottom thoroughly, and start over. If you choose that route, start over with the water chemistry just as you did the first time.
If draining the pool doesn’t appeal to you, you need to plan on investing in a top-quality test kit (see pool school for comparisons of the two test kits TFP recommends) -- both are generally only available on-line so you'll need to plan a couple of days for shipping. Come back to the forum, read pool school two or three times, and post your questions. We’ll help you out. If a top-quality test kit isn't an option, your best best is to drain the pool. We won't be able to do much for you without the information the advanced test kits provide.
Further recommendations
The pH and chlorine test kit is the very, very basic necessity. If you want to learn more about your water chemistry, and/or you’re using this small pool as a “starter pool†before jumping into a more permanent pool, consider a more advanced test kit. A good intermediate test kit is the HTH 6-way test available at many discount/home improvement stores. In addition to chlorine and pH, it tests total alkalinity, CYA (enough for two tests) and...Recommendations for the best option in test kits can be found in pool school.
Nikki, I think you did a wonderful job! (Applause....)
Really. Simple, straightforward. Two thumbs up.
My only suggestion would be in "step 3"
Replace the word water with "chlorine level"
Thanks so much for contributing to this!
Really. Simple, straightforward. Two thumbs up.
My only suggestion would be in "step 3"
Replace the word water with "chlorine level"
Thanks so much for contributing to this!
Thanks, Frustrated Pool Mom. I made the change you suggested, and added an explanation of what was changed and why.
Do we want to clarify what kind of pools we are talking about in more detail? Perhaps: This guide covers smaller pools that have a pump and filter and which get completely drained and put away each winter.
Dry Acid is also called PH Down (the current writeup says PH Up).
It is probably worth explicitly mentioning the WalMart six way test kit as being a good optional step up from a basic kit. It is a huge step to move up to a TF100 from OTO/PH. The WalMart kit is a great intermediate step.
Where it says, "If draining the pool doesn’t appeal to you", it should say that the choice is likely to be between getting a top quality kit and asking for help, or draining the pool.
The discussion about targeting FC between 2 and 4 might want to be adjusted to take into account that most people can't distinguish any value above 2 from any other value above 2. I might say something like: if above 2 then add 2 ppm of FC, if 2 or lower, raise FC up to 6. Or something along those lines. Another approach would be to try and add an amount of chlorine such that FC is 2 the next evening.
Dry Acid is also called PH Down (the current writeup says PH Up).
It is probably worth explicitly mentioning the WalMart six way test kit as being a good optional step up from a basic kit. It is a huge step to move up to a TF100 from OTO/PH. The WalMart kit is a great intermediate step.
Where it says, "If draining the pool doesn’t appeal to you", it should say that the choice is likely to be between getting a top quality kit and asking for help, or draining the pool.
The discussion about targeting FC between 2 and 4 might want to be adjusted to take into account that most people can't distinguish any value above 2 from any other value above 2. I might say something like: if above 2 then add 2 ppm of FC, if 2 or lower, raise FC up to 6. Or something along those lines. Another approach would be to try and add an amount of chlorine such that FC is 2 the next evening.