Hey guys, I am new here so my apologies if this isn't in the right section or format. Basically, I was curious to hear peoples' thoughts on a simplified Heat Exchanger to Air Conditioner set-up I intend to install. I am well aware of FPH's system and its installation. The issues I am having are in regards to the r410a lines/switches etc. I feel like the entire circuit, while well-engineered to be fool-proof, is super complicated, with too many moving parts to render it worthwhile IMO. My HVAC guy isn't really comfortable doing the entire job (I KNOW, I KNOW, get a new guy), but he is happy to just tap in heat exchanger on the hot r410a line between the condenser and compressor and owes me a favor, so I am stuck with him. He will be doing this during a new install of the AC.
I am in the northeast and my pool is in the shade and my AC unit is 3.5 ton. My pool will likely never get above 95 F. I use a solar cover and don't need too much heat in my pool. Our last house had a heat pump for the pool which I literally turned on once or twice a season, at the very beginning.
Moreover, I found a chinese heat exchanger that is formed of PPR which I believe is Polypropylene Random Copolymer (as opposed to PVC), which is capable of withstanding much higher temperatures. So my idea is to just install the heat exchanger inline as so the refrigerant is ALWAYS going through it. Then set up a simple electrical relay switch which turns the pool pump on whenever the AC is on. In this scenario, the fan of the AC always runs, and while redundant and using more power, I am okay with that. The maximum working temperature of the PPR is 158 degrees F, which I dont think will ever be reached if the pump is always circulating the water. And I was hoping that this setup would be fine even if the pump isn't on.
This would be connected to my upstairs AC unit, which is always on about 8-12 hrs a day for the extended season as the southern exposure and large amount of windows causes my house to heat up like a greenhouse, even in the early spring. We have a newborn and home office upstairs, so someone is always there.
Attached are some specs on the exchanger I am looking at, which seems to have better high temperature performance than the typical blue PVC housed ones you commonly see. As always, I suppose chinese specs should be taken with a grain of salt. But given that I can import this for less than $800 and the electric relay should be cheap, I feel that it is a pretty cost effective solution given the conditions, not to mention the cost of installation. I would put pool water re-routing valves so I could cut the heat exchanger out of the system should this experimental system melt or fail on the water side. Maybe I would install a pressure sensor to monitor for leaks in the system so i dont empty my pool if it fails. Unlike the other available systems, the low cost of this one could pay for itself in a season or two. I am in NYC and our electricity is currently an exorbitant 30 cents per kwh. Nat. Gas prices are even crazier, I've had 600/mth bills to heat my house this winter and we keep it at about 65 all winter! Any thoughts or advice? Am I missing something major here?
I am in the northeast and my pool is in the shade and my AC unit is 3.5 ton. My pool will likely never get above 95 F. I use a solar cover and don't need too much heat in my pool. Our last house had a heat pump for the pool which I literally turned on once or twice a season, at the very beginning.
Moreover, I found a chinese heat exchanger that is formed of PPR which I believe is Polypropylene Random Copolymer (as opposed to PVC), which is capable of withstanding much higher temperatures. So my idea is to just install the heat exchanger inline as so the refrigerant is ALWAYS going through it. Then set up a simple electrical relay switch which turns the pool pump on whenever the AC is on. In this scenario, the fan of the AC always runs, and while redundant and using more power, I am okay with that. The maximum working temperature of the PPR is 158 degrees F, which I dont think will ever be reached if the pump is always circulating the water. And I was hoping that this setup would be fine even if the pump isn't on.
This would be connected to my upstairs AC unit, which is always on about 8-12 hrs a day for the extended season as the southern exposure and large amount of windows causes my house to heat up like a greenhouse, even in the early spring. We have a newborn and home office upstairs, so someone is always there.
Attached are some specs on the exchanger I am looking at, which seems to have better high temperature performance than the typical blue PVC housed ones you commonly see. As always, I suppose chinese specs should be taken with a grain of salt. But given that I can import this for less than $800 and the electric relay should be cheap, I feel that it is a pretty cost effective solution given the conditions, not to mention the cost of installation. I would put pool water re-routing valves so I could cut the heat exchanger out of the system should this experimental system melt or fail on the water side. Maybe I would install a pressure sensor to monitor for leaks in the system so i dont empty my pool if it fails. Unlike the other available systems, the low cost of this one could pay for itself in a season or two. I am in NYC and our electricity is currently an exorbitant 30 cents per kwh. Nat. Gas prices are even crazier, I've had 600/mth bills to heat my house this winter and we keep it at about 65 all winter! Any thoughts or advice? Am I missing something major here?
