Signs of Algae at bottom of pool every morning

gnhand

Silver Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Jun 4, 2022
147
East Hampton, NY
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My readings this morning Taylor k-2006. Test strips for metals.
FC 8.5
CC. .5
Cya 70
Ph. 7.4
Alk. 110
Ch. 200
Copper. .1
Iron. .0

The water look crystal clear. There are spots of what looks like some algae at the bottom of the pool.

Should I do some type of slam? It seems to me I should bring chlorine up to 28. Is that correct?

I can’t find on pool math where it will calculate how much shock to add to get to 28?
 
Let's not get ahead of ourselves - don't start a Slam based on one test and the observation of "spots of what looks like some algae". It may be something else.

Your next step should be an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove that you have an organic problem.

 
I admit I haven’t done the overnight test - but I have been testing for the past four days and brushing and vacuuming every nite for the past three to for days. And every morning I see the same thing.
 
How do I get to that page in pool math? I use 73% calcium hypochlorite.
If you get tot he point of starting a SLAM, liquid chlorine will be bettter. The CalHypo will be slow to get up to the concentration we want to see and you will be adding calcium tothe water. You already show CH-200 in your vinyl pool which is mid level of where we like to see it.

1661178003941.png
 
I have on hand about 10 bags of the calcium chlorite which I’d like to use up. And 40 lbs of tabs. When I use it up I’ll start buying liquid
 
I have on hand about 10 bags of the calcium chlorite which I’d like to use up. And 40 lbs of tabs. When I use it up I’ll start buying liquid
Put those tabs in the back corner and save them for vacations and stuff like that. Your CYA is already at 70 and every tab you use will add 1.8ppm CYA to your 18k pool. So, just 6 tabs will take you to 80. If those tabs have "blue" in the name they are also probably adding copper as you show you have 0.1 CU.

You are fairly new to TFP, how much Pool School have you read? If you haven't seen them, start with these:


ABCs of Water Chemistry


Recommended Pool Chemicals


How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 
Put those tabs in the back corner and save them for vacations and stuff like that. Your CYA is already at 70 and every tab you use will add 1.8ppm CYA to your 18k pool. So, just 6 tabs will take you to 80. If those tabs have "blue" in the name they are also probably adding copper as you show you have 0.1 CU.

You are fairly new to TFP, how much Pool School have you read? If you haven't seen them, start with these:


ABCs of Water Chemistry


Recommended Pool Chemicals


How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Thanks for the advice- yes I have read the above when I first discovered TFP. Probably a month or two ago. But I didn’t understand it all. Now I’m beginning to get it. Probably a good time to re-read those articles!

I have to figure out how much liquid chlorine to buy at a time. And what is the shelf life.

It is near the end of the swimming season here on Long Island NY. I will definitely be using TFP methodology next season.

The other thing the tabs along with a auto chlorinator is a easy method to keep a FC level. What about tabs without stabiles in them?
 
The other thing the tabs along with a auto chlorinator is a easy method to keep a FC level. What about tabs without stabiles in them?
There are really not tabs without stabilizer. There are some Cal Hypo tabs out tehre, but they require a special grinder/feeder as they kind of turn into mush when wet rather than the ones you have that stay solid and slowly erode.

In it's natural state, chlorine is a gas. Many large commercial pools actually use gas injection systems to chlorinate their pools.

Now, to change chlorine into something we can use at home it needs to be bound to something to turn it into a solid. The "somethings" that are commonly used are -

  • stabilizer (also known as CYA, this is trichlor and DiChlor)
  • calcium (CalHypo)
  • lithium (hard to find and very expensive)
  • water

All of these add a little salt to your water, but they add something else. Cal-Hypo adds calcium, Tri-Chlor and Di-Chlor (tabs and most granules) add stabilizer, Lithium hypochlorite adds lithium and liquid chlorine adds - water.

All of these things can be bad for your pool (except the water) in large quantities. The stabilizer helps shield the chlorine from UV degradation, but at higher levels it also impairs the ability of chlorine to do it's work. The higher the stabilizer level you have the higher the amount of chlorine you need. Too much calcium and you start to get scaling on the walls and floors of your pool.

Now, the last option is a salt water chlorine generator (SWCG or SWG). Contrary to what folks "think", a "salt" pool does not get sanatized byt the salt. There is an electronic device, the SWCG that thru an electrical/chemical process turns the salt into chlorine right in your pool plumbing. As the chlorine is consumed (it happens in your pool now) the chlorine is converted into salt and the process continues.

Liquid or a SWCG are the ways we tend to suggest folks should keep their pools "trouble free"
 
  • Like
Reactions: beeswax and gnhand

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thank for all the info. That’s another item I am thinking about SWG. Maybe next year.

When I start to buy liquid chlorine how long does it last. This will help me to know how much to buy at a time.
 
This will help me to know how much to buy at a time.
45 days worth would be acceptable, 30 would be better. At 60 days, there can be some significant loss if stored in the heat.

Fresher is always stronger and a better value but it is not an earthshaking deterioration
 
Thank you.

The closest pool supply store to me is an hour round trip.

Is Clorox from the grocery store a good and reliable source of liquid chlorine.

Any suggestions as for how many gallons for my first purchase?
 
The closest pool supply store to me is an hour round trip.
Yea, you don't necessarily need chlorine form a pool supply store. Understand that when we say chlorine and bleach, it's the same thing only different percentages.

At the grocery store you will find "bleach". Stay away from low splash or scents and they have stuff added we don't want in the pool. "Bleach" will come in concentrations of 5.25%. 6% and they may say "concentrated" at 8.25%.

In other places you will find 10% and 12%. This may be a pool store that tehy generally call "liquid shock" or even in big box stores like Lowes or Home Depot. Another place to look for chlorine is janitorial supply companies and places that sell supplies to people doing pressure washing as they use if to clean sidewalks and such.
 
Yea, you don't necessarily need chlorine form a pool supply store. Understand that when we say chlorine and bleach, it's the same thing only different percentages.

At the grocery store you will find "bleach". Stay away from low splash or scents and they have stuff added we don't want in the pool. "Bleach" will come in concentrations of 5.25%. 6% and they may say "concentrated" at 8.25%.

In other places you will find 10% and 12%. This may be a pool store that tehy generally call "liquid shock" or even in big box stores like Lowes or Home Depot. Another place to look for chlorine is janitorial supply companies and places that sell supplies to people doing pressure washing as they use if to clean sidewalks and such.
Great to know. I just bought 3 gallons of 10 at $7 per gallon from local hardware store. Does that seem high or reasonable .

This morning I did add 3 lbs of calcium hypochlorite. I see a lot of white stuff on pool floor. Probably dead algae. I’ll take a chlorine reading soon and see what it is. I was trying to get to 28ppm for slam shock (70 cya).

Tonight I’ll do a overnight test
 
Ok - so I just tested again and found that the after I added three lbs of calcium hypochlorite for a slam (cya 80 = 28 ppm fc)

I I vacuumed the pool all white stuff on bottom (presuming algae). Too Hayward de 3650 apart and gave the grids a total cleanings.

Then added 2 gallons of 10 % liquid chlorine hypochlorite. After approximately 30 min
FC =. 26
Cc. .5

Do I need to test again longer than 39 minutes do the oclt test??

After I added these 2 gallons of liquid chlorine I am noticing some more white on bottom? How can I be sure it’s algae & not de coming out of filter?

And when I vacuum the algae (white stuff) can I just vacuum to filter not to waste which take out a lot of water . I use well water and try to add as little as possible ( has lots of iron in it)?

Sorry for all the questions but I’m trying to learn all this new stuff from TFP which has been great help!!!!
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.