Signs and Symptoms My Salt Cell is Dying

jason.jammer

Silver Supporter
Apr 6, 2020
48
New Jersey
Pool Size
18550
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
Hello-

I'm having to re-calibrate my panel a few times a day because my amps go to 0 and my instant salinity goes to -0.

After my third re-cal today be salt read 2800 and my instant read -3200. Is this right? Seems very off.

I check the flow switch and I found a hard white build up on the metal fin, almost like dried Elmer's glue. I couldn't pick it off with my nail so I left it in tact.

It was suggested my salt cell could be dying?

This is my third year with the Hayward T-9 cell that is wired to an Aqua Rite Goldline. The cell is clean and was stored indoors over the winter.

I hope someone can shed some light.

Thanks,

Jason
 
The board is easy to replace or it is repairable if you have some basic soldering and electronic skills.

 
Thanks for the video. I watched an INYO video on the board replacement and that's more my speed. Since my system is going into it's 3rd year, next task is to figure out f any of this is covered by Hayward.
 
Those are not the symptoms of a dying cell.

With a dying cell the instant salinity gets a lot lower then the actual salinity. Amps going to 0 is a board problem.
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
Box- 3A17284
Cell- 3E17283

Salt is at 3070 according to my meter. This is the meter I'm using- Amazon.com: Pen Type Salinity & Temp TDS Salt Checker Tester Meter ATC NaCl, 100 PPT / 9999 ppm / 10% / 0.95-1.08 SG Pond Pool Saltwater Aquarium Seawater Drinking Water Quality: Industrial & Scientific

Initial Reading Before the Tests
3300
88
31.3
0.00
52P
-0
AL-0
1.59
T-9

Auto to Off
3300
88
31.3
0.00
52P
-0
AL-0
1.59
T-9

Back to Auto
3300
88
26.0
4.83
52P
-3200
AL-0
1.59
T-9

Off for 1 Minute
3300
88
26.3
5.16
54P
-3400
AL-0
1.59
T-9
 
Those numbers look good.

It's working correctly.

54P means 54 percent of 180 minutes of actual generation.

So, 97 minutes on and 83 minutes off.

During the Off part of the cycle, the amperage and instant salinity will be 0.

The generating light stays on the whole time even when not actually generating.

After 180 minutes, a new cycle will begin.
 
Last edited:
Those numbers look good.

It's working correctly.

54P means 54 percent of 180 minutes of actual generation.

So, 97 minutes on and 83 minutes off.

During the Off part of the cycle, the amperage and instant salinity will be 0.

The generating light stays on the whole time even when not actually generating.

After 180 minutes, a new cycle will begin.
Thank you for the reply. I didn't know about this. I figured since generating was on, it should be generating. This is seriously really good news. It's been two weeks of trying to get a sound answer.
 
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