Should I take free 20 year old tub?

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Pr3dict

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Jun 19, 2020
14
NJ
My neighbor is moving and the people moving in want them to remove the hot tub beforehand... They offered it to us.

I'm going over tomorrow to take a look at it.. I know it's 6 person and about 20 years old. Should I even consider it at this age?

I know there is one jet that is leaking (pvc is cracked from what I'm told) but that's all I got so far.
 
That depends on what you are willing to put into it. Pipes rarely crack for no reason, or one at a time. But free gives you a good repair budget. Just keep in mind it costs several hundred $ to get one hauled to the dump, so be sure you want to fix it. Don't just think "why not, it's free" because it's not if you decide to get rid of it.
I would say if it is full foam insulation with damaged side panels and non-working equipment it belongs in the dump. You could buy a working used spa for less than it will cost to fix that one, even doing it yourself.
Do you know the brand? Post a few pics including the equipment and I will happily give you my opinion on it.
 
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Don't have any pics but it's a 1998 hot springs sovereign. The pvc issue is like where the pipe meets the female fitting.

The heater and jets work and turn on. I looked at it Today and the water was clear lol. The side panels look worn but not like there are bugs eating it out from the inside.. If I don't grab this one I will probably end up buying a brand new one in a year or so.

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It looks well maintained. I would take it if I were you.
Ask for the disconnect panel and breakers too. It will save you some $ even having the electrician mount a box and cap off the old wires at your neighbors house.
 
I was just reading the manual about the disconnect panel & breakers that are "supplied"... I'll have to hit them up about that. I am already thinking about the subpanel I'll need to put in next to my main box to add more breakers haha. 50 amps is a lot.
 
Yes, 50 amps is alot, but the breaker takes no more space than any other 240v breaker. I am certain a sub-panel will not be necessary, though a service upgrade might.
How many amps is your main breaker? What other major electrical appliances do you have?
Post a pic of your breaker panel.
 

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RDspaguy said:
Yes, 50 amps is alot, but the breaker takes no more space than any other 240v breaker. I am certain a sub-panel will not be necessary, though a service upgrade might.
How many amps is your main breaker? What other major electrical appliances do you have?
Post a pic of your breaker panel.
Click to expand...

I have a 42 space main panel. 200 amp service with unfortunately a full panel. I have 2 HVAC's, an induction range, septic, well, and too many circuits throughout the house. I'll definitely need to put a subpanel in but thats ok because I've been meaning to do that anyway (I'm building a detached garage) I'll move some of those circuits over to what I'm thinking will be a 100 amp sub panel.

But you are right. I'm starting to get worried that a 200 amp service is not enough these days. I have my doubts the power company will give me a service upgrade from there.
 
In my experience, the power company will come out and replace whatever equipment is necessary to get you to use, and therefore pay for, more electricity. Your main cost will be the licensed electrician doing the work. Get some quotes.
 
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Soo I got the hot tub moved onto my patio with the help of a boom forklift. Before I put water in it I figured I should try and fix that leak in the jet manifold thing...

Anyone have any idea what the best method to start fixing this thing is? Should I just pull it off and reseal all the pipes with some pvc cement?

Pipe thing
https://imgur.com/a/B08x3El
 
Where exactly is it leaking? Is that a diverter valve on top? Could it just be an o-ring in the diverter?
Putting pvc cement on a surface is rarely effective. Epoxy is a little better, but not a permanent repair, especially on flex pipe. Fix-a-leak products are similar depending on the location of the leak. You really need to determine the exact location of the leak.
 
so not sure why my pictures are gone butttttttttttttttt I think it is the oring/gasket you are talking about. When I turn the jets on it starts coming out heavily from the top of the black thing I posted earlier. It doesnt leak from the selector knob though it is leaking inside the main compartment and then it just gets everywhere.... I guess thats a common problem for these things. I'll order one up and try to fix it next week. Otherwise, the wiring went well and though I cant level the ground for Crud (I made a platform out of tamped road base, wood frame and filled that with sand and put pavers on top) I ended up having to shim a few places but it looks like it works...

edit: yikes, I'm reading it could possibly be the entire housing which was common for the 1998-2000 year model. If it's cracked I wouldnt even know where to begin fixing it because the hoses would all be too short for a new one if I cut them... I guess I'd have to get some type of intermediate hoses for all of them lol. So much for free hot tub...
 
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It could be cracked. But it may not be. If it is cracked you should be able to see or feel it from inside. Remove the top and pull the valve gate and see what you find.
Some brands have a repair sleeve just for this problem. Post a pic of the top and I will see what I can find.
 
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Pr3dict said:
So much for free hot tub...
Click to expand...
No hot tub is ever free. ;)
Here is a video on removing the valve gate.
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There is no sleeve for that type. If it is cracked you will have to replace it. Just cut the old pipes back as far as possible and couple in new flex pipe. You will need the flexibility of the new pipe and some play on the rest to get them into the fittings. Just take good pics so you get them back in the right spots.
I recommend Kristy's red hot blue glue. Seriously recommend it. As in, don't bother with anything else. And NO primer. Clean old pipe with a wet rag and some emery cloth. Make sure any spray foam is completely cleaned off. Be sure to twist as the pipe goes into the fitting. Use pressure fittings, not drain fittings. DO NOT GET GLUE INSIDE VALVE BODY!!! Be very careful and wipe off all excess glue on the lip of the can before you touch the valve with the dauber. In fact, I put the glue on the pipe first, then in the valve without dipping in the can in between. Get a drop of glue in there and you will regret it! Make sure the valve gate is out when glueing, just in case you do get some glue in there. A pvc cutter will be handy.
It is a tricky job, but not physically hard. Just be careful and take your time. Plan on spending a day on it. It will take a pro much less, but you don't want to rush it as a first-timer.
I can't find it online as a complete assembly, but here is the main body. You will also need the other parts listed below it, and I would at least replace the gate o-rings as well.
www.hottubspasupplies.com

37297 Body Diverter Valve, 6 Port

This part is a replacement 6 port diverter valve body for select Hot Spring hot tubs. The diverter valve is located on the outlet side of the jet pump and allows for the diversion of water to the desi
www.hottubspasupplies.com www.hottubspasupplies.com
 

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