Shock or not to shock
- Thread starter Taye828
- Start date
Hello, I am heading home. I just filled the pool yesterday with water and no one has been in it.
To expand on what Emini said, we'll need a full set of test results from your test kit (you have a test kit, right?)
Please post your test results in the following format:
FC (Free Chlorine)
CC (Combined Chloramines)
pH
TA (Total Alkalinity)
CH (Calcium Hardness)
CYA (Cyanuric Acid)
Is the pool clear? Green? Clear with a little algae? A picture or two of what it currently looks like will help as well.
Edit - Ok, you just filled it yesterday. Got it! If you get some chlorine in there ASAP, you likely won't need to SLAM, but you can't wait! Leaving it full of water with no protection will result in an algae outbreak in short order.
With a freshly filled pool, you want to use PoolMath (link at the top of the page) to get at least 2ppm of chlorine in there immediately, then purchase "stabilizer" or "conditioner" (granular - the liquid is extremely expensive) to bring your CYA up to 30, at which point you'll boost your chlorine to 6ppm, and never let it drop below 4ppm. PoolMath can help with how much of what to add. You'll also want to read through the following articles:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Please post your test results in the following format:
FC (Free Chlorine)
CC (Combined Chloramines)
pH
TA (Total Alkalinity)
CH (Calcium Hardness)
CYA (Cyanuric Acid)
Is the pool clear? Green? Clear with a little algae? A picture or two of what it currently looks like will help as well.
Edit - Ok, you just filled it yesterday. Got it! If you get some chlorine in there ASAP, you likely won't need to SLAM, but you can't wait! Leaving it full of water with no protection will result in an algae outbreak in short order.
With a freshly filled pool, you want to use PoolMath (link at the top of the page) to get at least 2ppm of chlorine in there immediately, then purchase "stabilizer" or "conditioner" (granular - the liquid is extremely expensive) to bring your CYA up to 30, at which point you'll boost your chlorine to 6ppm, and never let it drop below 4ppm. PoolMath can help with how much of what to add. You'll also want to read through the following articles:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Do you have some plain, unscented bleach (can't be EZPour or Splashless either) lying around? If not, grab a couple of jugs on the way home to get that chlorine level up quick. When you get some time today, please also add your pool details to your signature.
Please ask all the questions you want in this thread - we're here to help! If you are confused or need clarification just let us know.
Please ask all the questions you want in this thread - we're here to help! If you are confused or need clarification just let us know.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,923
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If that Easy Set pool is less than 3,000 gallons, you can follow the TFP Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools page for some VERY simple chemistry guidance that should make pool care easy for you this season. Hope that helps.
Will do. I just bought a jug of bleach. I read on here on the fly that splashless isn’t the same, so thank you TFP! I bought ph + and ph - bleach and test strips
You can return the test strips - they are very inaccurate and have ranges of values that don't make them useful for our needs.
pH- is just muriatic acid. When the jug says pH-, it usually means you paid more for it than you should have. No problem, it may come in handy for now, but the next time you need pH-, we can tell you how to get it from a hardware store and save money!
pH+ - you likely won't need this. You can raise pH for free by splashing around or turning one of your water returns upwards to roil the surface of the water for free.
pH- is just muriatic acid. When the jug says pH-, it usually means you paid more for it than you should have. No problem, it may come in handy for now, but the next time you need pH-, we can tell you how to get it from a hardware store and save money!
pH+ - you likely won't need this. You can raise pH for free by splashing around or turning one of your water returns upwards to roil the surface of the water for free.
Before we go too far down the road of buying a lot of "stuff" for your pool, please understand that we consider your type of pool a "Seasonal/Temporary Pools". As your pool only has about 1,000 gallons of water if something goes wrong you can easily dump the water and start over. Plus, the test kit for a regular pool would cost more then you pool did.
So, we recommend maintaining them differently than a permanent pool. Check out our guide -
Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools
So, we recommend maintaining them differently than a permanent pool. Check out our guide -
Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Return the pH + and the pH -, and the test strips.
Get the oto clorine tester $10 and a 4 lb jug of stablizer (cya)
Use pool math to add in 30 ppm worth of stablizer, fill in 30 as your cya and add in the bleach. With this pool do not care about ch or ta. Test your pH and use muratic acid to keep it in the 7's. Test clorine every day and build it up with bleach. Easy peezy. If it turns green dump the water and start over.
Get the oto clorine tester $10 and a 4 lb jug of stablizer (cya)
Use pool math to add in 30 ppm worth of stablizer, fill in 30 as your cya and add in the bleach. With this pool do not care about ch or ta. Test your pH and use muratic acid to keep it in the 7's. Test clorine every day and build it up with bleach. Easy peezy. If it turns green dump the water and start over.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,923
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Protects chlorine from the sun and helps to serve as a buffer for the pool materials and swimmers so the bleach isn't so harsh. Walmart has HTH brand stabilizer in a 4lb jug for about $17, but you can shop around in any pool section. Look for the major ingredient on the label - Cyanuric Acid. When you get it, post and we'll explain how to add to the water.
As for bleach, any regular (plain/non-scented) bleach will work.
Is there a calculator on how much bleach to add? When can I add? When can I swim after adding the bleach?
I just found the app. I will try to figure it out. I will have to go out tomo morning and get the stabilizer and chlorine test strips. Is it safe to add bleach now and swim in about 2 hours? How do I know how much bleach to add without test strips? Should I wait till tomo to open the pool?
Ok I can’t give you guys any info unless I test. I bought the Clorox brand test strips. Should I keep them and test the water. I need to add bleach but don’t know how much. Sorry, I’m very new here.
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