*Shallow end, being shocked when grabbing railing*

Going in that direction leads to the retention pond and to the highway.
How far away is the highway/construction location? If the source was on the other side of the pond, the pond would lower the resistance between the pool and the source making it more apparent.
 
Do you know how deep the pond is?

Is the pond lined with anything to make it watertight?

Maybe contact the people who own and manage the pond to see if they know anything.

Can you show pictures of the pond from all angles and if there is any electrical equipment nearby?
 
If you can't get a good map with shallow stakes, maybe go deeper with some sort of ground rod.

You can install a temporary rod for testing purposes using a length of copper pipe at about 6 to 8 feet using water.


However, be careful as there might be elevated voltage in the ground.

The water method should be safer than a drill or hammer because if you hit anything, it should not have enough force to break through.

Don't do it if there is any chance that there are power wires in the area.
 
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How far away is the highway/construction location? If the source was on the other side of the pond, the pond would lower the resistance between the pool and the source making it more apparent.
aerial1.png 100-200ft from the pool
Aluminum anchors corrode even without stray current.

Aluminum is a horrible choice for anchor cups.
I know, they suck. I don't know why they even sell aluminum. I know I will need to remove them. Is brass the best bet for the future?
Do you know how deep the pond is?

Is the pond lined with anything to make it watertight?

Maybe contact the people who own and manage the pond to see if they know anything.

Can you show pictures of the pond from all angles and if there is any electrical equipment nearby?
The pond may rise to a maximum level of 6 feet. There's no lining at all, just dirt and grass. It's owned by the State, as is the lot right behind my fence.

I'll try to get some pictures of electric equipment around it.
 
Is brass the best bet for the future?
I think that brass is the best available material.
There's no lining at all, just dirt and grass.
That means that the ground water is going to be high.

Maybe something is charging the water?

Maybe a pumping system that has some sort of electrical fault?

Any voltage or current in the water will radiate through the ground water for quite a long way since the water is a good conductor.
 
Note: This is just speculation.

What if you install ground rods around the perimeter of the entire pool area and connect them with copper wire?

It would essentially create a Faraday cage where any current would hit a ground rod on the way to the pool and it would go around the pool instead of through it.

Maybe someone else can comment on if this would work or if it could create more problems?

It seems like it would create a really good bonding grid that completely surrounds the pool.

It could be connected to the bonding grid or maybe just left unconnected.

You could test from the “cage” to the bonding/grounding system to see if there is any voltage or current.

I would suspect that having that much ground contact would show the highest voltage differences and the most current flow as it should pick up a lot of the current flowing through the property.

Don’t do anything like this without consulting a qualified local professional like an electrical engineer.
 
link for non conductive railing and mounts.
Thank you for that link. I did get the saftron anchor inserts for the railing anchors, and they are 👍

I see the surface mounts, would you use those instead of anchors and bolt them into the concrete?

I think that brass is the best available material.

That means that the ground water is going to be high.

Maybe something is charging the water?

Maybe a pumping system that has some sort of electrical fault?

Any voltage or current in the water will radiate through the ground water for quite a long way since the water is a good conductor.
Right now the water level is lower since it hasn't rained very much and it's been hot. Granted, whatever is going on it's going through my house ground first as @mas985 had mentioned. I'll definitely try to get some mapping done so we have a better idea of which areas are 🔥
 

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I just called the PC to see how things were looking. He said, "A crew has been scheduled to come out and repair the neutral line, but it may not happen until next week."

Does this make sense? Did engineering somehow make a determination that it *might be* a faulty neutral? When they tested everything the other day they were stumped. If the neutral line has an issue, going from my meter to the junction box under my driveway, to the main hub across the street; will replacing the wire correct the issue?
 
A faulty neutral can cause problems, but I don't know how they decided that that was something that was necessary.

Maybe they are just trying things to see if it helps or just to seem like they are trying.

Probably have to wait until the work is done and then recheck for voltage.

I would not be surprised if it does not help.
 
What exactly are they repairing? Either a neutral is connected or not or has a bad connection (higher resistance). Is the 120v voltage lower than it is supposed to be (>10%)? If you had a bad neutral, I would think you would be having other issues. But even that does not explain the voltage in your yard.
 
What exactly are they repairing? Either a neutral is connected or not or has a bad connection (higher resistance). Is the 120v voltage lower than it is supposed to be (>10%)? If you had a bad neutral, I would think you would be having other issues. But even that does not explain the voltage in your yard.
I have no clue and the customer service rep didn't know much else besides what they said in the ticket. The commons are both 120V so there isn't any indication that it's a bad neutral. I'm stumped because I feel like it's a bigger issue than the neutral. My intent this Sunday morning is to do some mapping, so hopefully, that'll help some.

A faulty neutral can cause problems, but I don't know how they decided that that was something that was necessary.
I'm on the fence about it because they'll need to tear up my driveway.
 
I have no clue and the customer service rep didn't know much else besides what they said in the ticket. The commons are both 120V so there isn't any indication that it's a bad neutral. I'm stumped because I feel like it's a bigger issue than the neutral. My intent this Sunday morning is to do some mapping, so hopefully, that'll help some.
I would first do two quick tests to just see if there is a voltage gradient. One measurement on the pool side facing the highway close to the fence. And another on the direct opposite of the pool, closer to the house. This will take only a couple minutes and give you a general direction of where the issue is. After that, you can fill in if needed but I don't think it will be necessary.
 
I would first do two quick tests to just see if there is a voltage gradient. One measurement on the pool side facing the highway close to the fence. And another on the direct opposite of the pool, closer to the house. This will take only a couple minutes and give you a general direction of where the issue is. After that, you can fill in if needed but I don't think it will be necessary.
Using a ground rod, screwdriver, or attached to the pump bonding?
 
I think that, for the test, you will get the best readings if you disconnect the wire going to the ground rod and disconnect the bonding grid from anything that is also grounded, which is easy enough for most equipment except for the light niche.

Once you get the bonding grid and the ground rod separated from the house ground/neutral bus bar, then you will have the highest potential difference between the ground/earth and the neutral.

You will need to check for voltage between the earth at multiple points and the wire that you disconnected from the ground rod.
 

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