Several Plumbing Questions

[jbird0215]

Hello, after extensive study on this site, I’ve learned that my inherited plumbing setup is not good and am looking to make some changes. Here are my questions along with pics.

1. The SWG is probably in the worst possible spot. I can likely move it post-filter and pre-heater with not much replumbing. Post-heater is ideal obviously but will require a replumb as I don’t have enough straight run. Any suggestions here? If post-heater, how would you replumb?
2. After removing 2 pumps that were feeding from the same suction source and a booster pump, I now have 3 lines. One is a water slide line, one is a booster pump line that I plan to make a return (the one with green duct tape on the end), and one is an extra line to the pool deck. With respect to the water slide (the line with half the union visible on the right in the overhead shot), I need to replumb it to the main line. After moving the SWG, I was planning to reconnect the water slide in that spot and possibly adding a Jandy never lube. There’s really no need to automate this feature as it is rarely used. Thoughts on this approach?
3. I know I need to add some unions, particularly at the filter. Any other places you’d suggest?
4. A heater bypass sounds like a good idea. Any opinions on this and how to plumb with my setup?
5. While I’m overhauling, I was thinking about replacing all the ball valves with Jandy never lubes. If a good idea, how many would I need and where should they be placed?
6. I’m not a fan of the 90 immediately before the pump. I have room to move it so that it is more of a straight shot from the suction. Good idea or am I just being nit-picky?

Are there other variables I should consider? I’ve derived so much value from this site. 3 months ago, I would not have known the difference between a good and bad setup.

Thank you,
Jason

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

If the plan is to replace the ball valves with Jandy valves, then it only makes sense to just replumb the whole pad so that your SWCG is plumbed after the heater..

While you are at it, I'd get rid of those "Home Depot" unions and go with pump unions.. They screw into the pump and look like this...

Amazon.com: 2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch 2MIP x 2" inch PVC Whisperflo & Intelliflo - 2 PACK: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: 2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch 2MIP x 2" inch PVC Whisperflo & Intelliflo - 2 PACK: Garden & Outdoor

www.google.com

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jbird0215]

Jim, sounds like I should do it one time and right so that I can more easily maintain moving forward. I have 1.5” pvc so would these unions work?

Custom Molded 21063-154-000 1.5" MIP x 1.5" PVC Hi-Temp Union Amazon.com: Custom Molded 21063-154-000 1.5" MIP x 1.5" PVC Hi-Temp Union: Garden & Outdoor

J,

If the plan is to replace the ball valves with Jandy valves, then it only makes sense to just replumb the whole pad so that your SWCG is plumbed after the heater..

While you are at it, I'd get rid of those "Home Depot" unions and go with pump unions.. They screw into the pump and look like this...

Amazon.com: 2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch 2MIP x 2" inch PVC Whisperflo & Intelliflo - 2 PACK: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: 2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch 2MIP x 2" inch PVC Whisperflo & Intelliflo - 2 PACK: Garden & Outdoor

www.google.com

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

You can always mount the SWG vertically if you can't find a long enough horizontal run between the heater and the return. You should have 12" of straight run before the SWG flow switch. See page 11 in https://hayward-pool-assets.com/ass...nuals/AquaRite-AQR-Operation-Installation.pdf

Another idea is come out from your heater with a 90 degree up, a vertical pipe getting above the other pipes, then a 90 out horizontal, then you have as long of a vertical run as you need for the SWG, then make a U turn with the pipes and connect to the returns.

For design of a heater bypass read Heater Bypass - Further Reading

A longer straight run into the suction of your pump is a good idea.

With all the pipes coming out of the ground vertically you may need to stagger the diverter valves on them. I would use a coupler and add 4"-6" of straight pipe before you tie them together so you have room to cut things out for future maintenance.

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

Those would work..

Here is another option.. Custom Molded Products | 1.5" CPVC Union Male Adaptor | 21063-150-000

The idea is that the threaded end, that screws into the pump, has an O-Ring, so it won't leak like a lot of the threaded connections I've seen after a couple of years..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jbird0215]

Thanks Allen. All makes sense except the diverter valve comment. Do you have a pic or example of what you are talking about? Would the extension be on the vertical or horizontal run? Also, do I need a Jandy for each suction and return line?

You can always mount the SWG vertically if you can't find a long enough horizontal run between the heater and the return. You should have 12" of straight run before the SWG flow switch. See page 11 in https://hayward-pool-assets.com/ass...nuals/AquaRite-AQR-Operation-Installation.pdf

Another idea is come out from your heater with a 90 degree up, a vertical pipe getting above the other pipes, then a 90 out horizontal, then you have as long of a vertical run as you need for the SWG, then make a U turn with the pipes and connect to the returns.

For design of a heater bypass read Heater Bypass - Further Reading

A longer straight run into the suction of your pump is a good idea.

With all the pipes coming out of the ground vertically you may need to stagger the diverter valves on them. I would use a coupler and add 4"-6" of straight pipe before you tie them together so you have room to cut things out for future maintenance.

 

[ajw22]

Give me some head on pics of the vertical pipes coming out of the ground showing the ball valves. All the pics you posted looked down on the pipes.

 

[jbird0215]

Here you go

Give me some head on pics of the vertical pipes coming out of the ground showing the ball valves. All the pics you posted looked down on the pipes.

 

[ajw22]

Your pipes have more length out of the ground then I thought. You can cut them right below the ball valve and put some diverter valves on that stub then a short length from the diverter into a T fitting.

The diverter valves may be too wide to easily sit in a row. So you may want to stagger them like shown below. Use a coupler to lengthen the pipe a bit to raise a diverter higher so they are not side by side.

 

[jbird0215]

Makes perfect sense, thank you! I’ll probably just bite the bullet and get it all done so I can better maintain it.

Your pipes have more length out of the ground then I thought. You can cut them right below the ball valve and put some diverter valves on that stub then a short length from the diverter into a T fitting.

The diverter valves may be too wide to easily sit in a row. So you may want to stagger them like shown below. Use a coupler to lengthen the pipe a bit to raise a diverter higher so they are not side by side.

View attachment 171728

View attachment 171729

 

[jbird0215]

First estimate in at $1,600 for basically a complete rebuild of the pad plumbing with all new stuff. I estimate the parts alone at a $700 - $800 cost. I plan on getting a couple more estimates as I have some time before swim season kicks into gear. I could try to tackle it myself but seems a little daunting for a first pool plumbing project.

 

[jbird0215]

@Jimrahbe @ajw22

Would you recommend upgrading to new valves to the return lines, replacing the existing ball valves with couplers, or just leaving them alone? One pool company came out today and he says he rarely sees valves on the returns.

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

I agree with the pool company... there is no major reason to have valves on the return lines.. The main benefit is that if the line went bad, you could shut it off.. Of course if the line went bad it would just as easy to cut and cap the line off.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

I am used to seeing valves on return lines in places where you need to blow out and winterize the lines. Being able to blow out and air lock each return individually makes winterizing easy if you ever need to close the pool.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Allen,

Well that makes a lot of sense... Good catch.. I live where pools don't get closed...

So, Jbird, do you close or not???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[jbird0215]

I only winterized the water slide this year and don’t plan to close the pool in future years. I’m going to have them add a union to the water slide so I can easily blow that line myself every year. I’m in the Nashville area and we just don’t get that cold for long periods. But I have freeze protection on, a tarp, and a light source if it’s ever needed. If I do decide to close, I may just invest in one of those modified Hayward pump covers that I learned about on this site. Thanks to you both.

 

[jbird0215]

@Jimrahbe @ajw22

One more for you - one company said they would install a check valve pre-pump but not as part of the heater bypass. This doesn't make any sense to me as I don't have issues with prime with my pump only being 12-18 inches above the water line. Thoughts?

 

[Jimrahbe]

J,

In a well working system, there is no need for a check valve in front of the pump.. If you have no priming issues, then why add a check valve?

Jim R.

 

[jbird0215]

Agreed. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix.

J,

In a well working system, there is no need for a check valve in front of the pump.. If you have no priming issues, then why add a check valve?

Jim R.

 

[jbird0215]

Ok so I had the pad replumbed. I have noticed some air bubbles in the returns since the replumb. I will have the company come back out and take a look as there is a small leak at the pump union that leads to the filter that they will need to address. But I don’t think this is the culprit because it is on the pressure side. There’s also a small leak from the filter drain cap that probably isn’t the culprit either. It happens at all returns but the deep end returns, which are farthest from the equipment, seem to be worse. I’m including a video of one of the deep returns so you can see. SWG is off. I’ve read on here that some air is likely the norm but it still bugs me. I don’t have any basis of comparison so don’t know if this is considered a bad leak. Appreciate any feedback.