Serious help needed

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kcindc said:
That sucks and is a fear of mine... i lost my phone this weekend and had a hard time finding it, it fell out of my pocket into the flower bed next to the pool. I hope you get your replacement phone soon.

The silt/dead algae areas are just how the debris settles because of the water currents. Once a little bit settles it tends to attract more and the area of accumulation grows.

FYI, crystal clear water on this forum means you can see the screws on the main drain cover and can tell if they are phillips head or straight.
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Ok, thanks for the info. The water seems clean and somewhat clear to me, and yet is still the same shade of green. The green dosen't really seem to lighten up, despite the water being clearer. I do know that clear is subjective, and I can see it improving slowly over time. Of course, the question remains this: as the water clears does that mean the green is fading, or no, the green remains but is getting cleaner??:confused:
 
"Clear" is a term related to whenever your SLAM is complete and it not subjective. That doesn't mean that your water is not getting clearer, it just means that it is not "clear" because you can't tell what type of screws are on you main drain.

It has been mentioned a few times that you may have metals and that metal will cause a color tint, but will not impact the clarity or ability to see the main drain covers. The difference between algae turning the water green and metals causing a green tint is all about clarity. Algae=green cloudy water; metals=green (or some other color) and crystal clear water.
 
richardc said:
Test results at 530AM CST July 19th

FC 18 **
CC1.0


I see an amount of silt/discoloration in the exact area as before in the shallow end. Although the concentration of the material is far less than before it is there. So, the question becomes why there? Is that a low point in the shallow end where material settles? Inquiring minds want to know! :cool:

What say you?

** close to passing the overnight test, but not quite theere yet. Last night, I took 3 tests at the same time, and got 3 slightly different results ranging from 18 to 19.5. Also, I notice that if the solution sits unstirred it slowly turns red after the drops are instilled.


Swampwoman, I'm letting things settle...yes?:)

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Thank you for your support!
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I missed this post from earlier today. Do you have a speed stir? It greatly helps with accuracy and convenience. I didn't buy it initially, but once I got it I realized how it makes testing faster and more accurate. TFTestkits.net

Also, as mentioned by Pool Amatuer, you can use the 25 ml sample for the OCLT. There isn't a reason to use the 25 ml for the rest of the tests as you will use up your reagents faster. Speaking of which now might be a good time to see if you need to reorder reagents before your run out.
 
Get a waterproof phone or case, But the way take the battery out if you can or at least turn off if you can, put in bowl of rice and a dehydrator (if you have one) at u 100 degrees and leave for a day or 2, it might work, it has for me but I now have water resistant to 3 feet and it has been tested many times. I started that bumping the kids into the pool thing and what is good for the goose is good for the gander, boy they learn fast, especially my bad habits.

Good to hear of the progress at least.

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I second that speedstir, I do not know what I would do without it.

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If you do order again I highly recomend the 50 ppm standard solution of CYA pool water, really helped me with intra and extra rater reliablity. Cheap as long as you get shipped with something else.
 
Mike1162 said:
I'd be vacuuming whatever can be seen. If it starts to get stirred up you can stop. Use your best judgment. Get er done!
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Swampwoman suggested letting the deep end clear before vacuuming. I see her point. She believed that letting things settle, and then seeing, would be the way to go. I'd like to give that several more days, and see if I can see the deep end pool bottom. Today's clarity was much improved over the prior day. I can clearly see the concentartions of silt in several different spots. I think I can see similar involvement on the slope to the deep end. Clearly visible is the meeting of the side walls and the bottom in the deep end (curved surface). From everything I know now, its fairly evident that silt/dirt/algae remain in concentrations of various sizes throughout the pool bottom. The only question is the extent in the mid to deep ends. Once that is answered (which will mean I can see down) then I should be home free towards putting an end to this.

I am using less chlorine as the days pass, so I believe that I am slowly winning the battle. But it's a long war.

I am most interested in what my FC reading will be overnight. Thank you for your input and support.

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kcindc said:
I missed this post from earlier today. Do you have a speed stir? It greatly helps with accuracy and convenience. I didn't buy it initially, but once I got it I realized how it makes testing faster and more accurate. TFTestkits.net

Also, as mentioned by Pool Amatuer, you can use the 25 ml sample for the OCLT. There isn't a reason to use the 25 ml for the rest of the tests as you will use up your reagents faster. Speaking of which now might be a good time to see if you need to reorder reagents before your run out.
Click to expand...


I have no idea what a speed stir is.
 

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Good morning, Richard. It sounds like your clarity/depth is improving a good deal now. When you get your new phone, post us a pic to confirm.

At this rate, I'm hoping you'll be in a good position to do a comprehensive vac to waste by the weekend. The stuff will keep resettling until there's nothing left to settle...so you want to keep letting it settle to get it all out at once ;)

Don't worry about the green tint...if its looking clear and sparkly on top layers, then I'm reasonably certain we can remediate it after you pass the slam.

If you want, you may wish to now order the metal sequestrant I believe will work best to clear it and help lift stains. You will need Metal Magic by Proteam...its available at Http://www.poolgeek.com

Don't use it until you've passed the slam, done the vac etc. High FC will break it down and interfere with its effectiveness. You need to be wholly out of the woods on algae before using it.

You will need at least the startup dose, and possibly extra if you have staining. Here's a link to a PDF on how to use it to do a stain test.

Again, I repeat...I'm telling you now so you have time to order it, get familiar, etc., but don't use it til we're all certain you're finished the slam and the pool is behaving ;)

This test is for liner stains only, not the startup dose: Start up dose in a 30k gallon pool will be 3 quarts.
http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf
 
Swampwoman said:
Good morning, Richard. It sounds like your clarity/depth is improving a good deal now. When you get your new phone, post us a pic to confirm.

At this rate, I'm hoping you'll be in a good position to do a comprehensive vac to waste by the weekend. The stuff will keep resettling until there's nothing left to settle...so you want to keep letting it settle to get it all out at once ;)


Don't worry about the green tint...if its looking clear and sparkly on top layers, then I'm reasonably certain we can remediate it after you pass the slam.

If you want, you may wish to now order the metal sequestrant I believe will work best to clear it and help lift stains. You will need Metal Magic by Proteam...its available at Http://www.poolgeek.com

Don't use it until you've passed the slam, done the vac etc. High FC will break it down and interfere with its effectiveness. You need to be wholly out of the woods on algae before using it.

You will need at least the startup dose, and possibly extra if you have staining. Here's a link to a PDF on how to use it to do a stain test.

Again, I repeat...I'm telling you now so you have time to order it, get familiar, etc., but don't use it til we're all certain you're finished the slam and the pool is behaving ;)

This test is for liner stains only, not the startup dose: Start up dose in a 30k gallon pool will be 3 quarts.
http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf
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Good morning, good to hear from you. Yes, the water is clearer, but we are not there yet. First, more pouring rain here, bad thunderstorms. The power went off, and back on a few times during the night. My pump lost prime, so I have turned it off until it stops raining and I can safely handle the electrical box etc. My FC test this morning at 800 am showed that I lost 2.5 ppm of chlorine overnight so I am still fighting contaminants. We know this because, at a minimum, I can easily see areas of debris sediment on the shallow end floor. More of it in the main culprit area, and sporadic small spots throughout. It's obvious that stuff has settled, and re-settled, so you are right...it will do this until it is gone. The big question is the amount of involvement in the mid to deep ends, and that answer will have to wait until the water clears a bit more. I very briefly did a quick walk around the pool to see what I could scope in the deeper ends without getting on my stomach, and cupping my eyes (this helps with water reflection). I could make out, I think, some areas of debris, but confirmation will have to wait for clearer water, and/or getting on my stomach and peering down looking into the deepest water (BTW, the shallow end is readily visible, and the debris jumps out at you).

So, I think this entire process will rest on visibility in the deep and mid level areas, and thorough vacuuming to remove the contaminants on the floor. But what about the walls? At what point does that get attacked, and remedied?

Are you convinced that I do have some metal contamination? I will order the chemicals you recommended, but not touch them until you suggest:D

Thanks for all of your expert help...its much, much appreciated !:kim:

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Test at 800AM CST July 20th

FC 15

adding, but power off, due to storms, so no pump for a short while
 
Test results are inaccurate if your pump is not running. We suggest that the water be moving for 30 minutes before conducting any tests.

Also, it is suggested that you do not add chems unless the pump is running. If you do add chems when the pump is running, you need to brush and stir the water... since you are waiting for your sediment to settle, you don't want to brush.

Hopefully the rain will ease up and the power restored so you can turn on your pump and continue your SLAM.
 
also polarized glasses/sunglasses may help looking into water, or a DIY water viewer, like a 4" round PVC tube with plastic wrap or a piece of glass banded to the end you stick into pool. Look down through that to kill the reflection.

Also I forgot to mention before, if you ever do order the 50ppm CYA standard solution order an extra mixing bottle and view tube so you have a side by side comparison of a positive test and your test for CYA .
 
The pump is back on, the storm has passed. The skimmer baskets were overflowing with leaves from the storm. I also backwashed, and the water was very dirty. I think the DE helps. I will re-test in about 30 minutes

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Any suggestions on speeding up re-priming the pump. It's always an adventure for me to do that. My pump is uphill from the pool. It takes a long time to get it going. I watched a youtube, and they suggested releasing air from the filter. However, I have only my pressure valve and no separate pressure relief part. Typically, I have to fill and refill water in the pump a few times before it gets going. My pool guy suggested a check valve?
 

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