Serious help needed

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My pump is 6 inches to a foot higher than my pool. If your pool water was normal and you lost prime when the pump stopped running, then you have a leak somewhere that is allowing air to get into the system.

I've fixed my many leaks and I no longer loose prime when my pump is off. The leaks before the pump are called air leaks as they bring air into the plumbing when the pump is running, leaks after the pump are called pressure leaks and push water out of the plumbing when the pump is running. Either leak will bring air into the system when the pump is not running.

A few places to look is anywhere you see moisture or air bubbles or hissing sounds when the equipment is turned off. My leaks have been: leak where my pressure gauge attached to my filter, big filter gasket, filter gasket where it connects to my multiport value, my multiport valve spider gasket and handle gaskets, my multiport sight glass, jandy check valve before my pump, plumbing lines cut and not repaired correctly while installing speakers.

My equipment, plumbing and pool were all original (1982) when I purchased my house. I now have all new equipment above ground and new plumbing above ground.
 
I see Kcindc, has a check valve before pump so I guess it is ok but maybe this problem is contributing to the slowness of your slam. I will let the expert give more opinions. But anyway you are still doing the right thing and it may not have any influence.

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I do not have a check valve right before pump. Do you?
 
No, a suction or pressure leak is not a factor in this SLAM. It is something that can be addressed later so that he doesn't loose prime. Loosing prime and taking a long time to reprime can cause the pump to overheat and shorten the life of the pump. I had to replace my pump once because my pool lost prime when too much debris filled up my skimmers when I was out of town.
 

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Any suggestions on speeding up re-priming the pump. It's always an adventure for me to do that. My pump is uphill from the pool. It takes a long time to get it going. I watched a youtube, and they suggested releasing air from the filter. However, I have only my pressure valve and no separate pressure relief part. Typically, I have to fill and refill water in the pump a few times before it gets going. My pool guy suggested a check valve?
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It helps if you close the skimmer and drain valves, fill with water, then seconds after turning the pump back on opening the valves.
 
pabeader said:
Note: Until you are visibly clear, there is no real reason to do an OCLT. At least not as far as the SLAM is concerned. As a way to see how that battle is going, it's fine.
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I see, but there is possibly an interesting dilemna. If, in fact, my water is tinted green due to copper (that's a big if, I certainly don't know)then there will be difficulty in seeing down, at least in the deep end. To what extent, I don't know. Here is what I am talking about. The shallow end is visible to the floor, yet the water is green. As the water deepens there is greater difficulty seeing down. Right now, I can make out the slope (straining) leading to the deep end. As the water deepens, visibility is limited. Is this due to algae, tint or both? I would hope that my FC tests would help answer that question. If my overnight FC test passes, then I may start to have an answer to that question. So that is why I was carefully trying to look at an overnight test.

As far as the green goes, my observation is that it never gets better. By that I mean, although the water looks clearer, the green has remained and appears to be stable. In other words I don't see a lessening of the green, as much as I see an improving of clarity.

Please remember, I am a novice and only know what I can see, and read from this board, and limited other sources. In the past, I have never had an algae or metals issue(never had one) that wasn't easily controlled. My understanding is that Swampwoman suggested that my SLAM needs to be resolved before I can attempt to remedy the green via a metals chemical. Hence, the overnight tests. Please don't hesitate to correct me if I have it wrong.:)

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Swampwoman said:
It helps if you close the skimmer and drain valves, fill with water, then seconds after turning the pump back on opening the valves.
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Good morning. Since the shallow is quite visible would there be harm in re-vacuuming the visible debris in that area only?:kim:
 
I get what you mean about the tinted green. I remember reading earlier in this thread where it was described that the green won't impede the clarity. It's kind of like looking through colored gin. You will be able to very clearly see the main drain. It might be green tinted, but it will be vary easily seen.
 

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