Serious help needed

Last night's test 18



- - - Updated - - -

The check valve will prevent water from siphoning out of the pump. It has a flap inside that closes when water flows in the reverse direction. Since your equipment is up hill from the pool, you would be more prone to have water siphon back into the pool when the pump is off. Check valves for pools are designed to be chlorine resistant, where a regular check valve may not, and fail over time.

What was your FC last night?

Must the check valve be installed before the pump? Can it be installed between the pump and the filter?
 
July 31st photos
a2b8b70ddc092d5d39b383f870b9e4a8.jpg
f7faaa341088d830f2be23506a760922.jpg
e36dad29420510dc3f5e8c72326ecc58.jpg
 
Wow, looks great! I would start doing some cleanup around the pool. I like to take a diluted bleach solution to spray, brush and scrub around the rim of the pool and the decking. This way it you won't be introducing nasties into the pool after you finish your SLAM. I use a pressure washer on my deck, but be careful with the pressure near the coping/pool liner as you don't want high pressure to cut into them and damage them.
 
If FC stayed at 18 overnight (tested at least 20 mins after last addition of bleach, pump ran 6+ hrs) then assuming correct testing and such, yes you passed OCLT. That being said, your recent daily FC loss is still higher than we'd like, but today could start a new trend of less FC loss/day. Either way, your pool is trending correctly and you should continue the SLAM until the water is clear (based on recent photos, it still has a slight white/haze/cloud to it in my opinion.
 
If FC stayed at 18 overnight (tested at least 20 mins after last addition of bleach, pump ran 6+ hrs) then assuming correct testing and such, yes you passed OCLT. That being said, your recent daily FC loss is still higher than we'd like, but today could start a new trend of less FC loss/day. Either way, your pool is trending correctly and you should continue the SLAM until the water is clear (based on recent photos, it still has a slight white/haze/cloud to it in my opinion.

I think the haze cloud you saw is a reflection from the sun. In the last picture it looks like a haze but that's a reflection. If you look at the other pictures in that series you can see a trail of reflection from the far to near side of the pool. Please correct me if its something else that I am missing.
 
Also, how does it look when looking at the deep end drain, can you see the head of the main drain cover clearly?

Yes, when the pump is off as the waves from the return jet obscure vision. When the pump is off you can see everything; i.e. wrinkles in the liner, drain cover, configuration of the walls and floor etc. It's tough to see when the pump is going, and there are substantial waves.
 
That would work, as long as it isn't the pump fittings that are causing the leak back to the pool. The check valve placed between the filter and the pump, will still stop the water from the filter from going back to the pool, but any leak at the pump will still drain to pool. We are really trying to keep the water in the pump.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
That would work, as long as it isn't the pump fittings that are causing the leak back to the pool. The check valve placed between the filter and the pump, will still stop the water from the filter from going back to the pool, but any leak at the pump will still drain to pool. We are really trying to keep the water in the pump.

It would seem to me that the amount/volume of water in the pump itself cannot be that much relative to the volume that would be in the filter?. How much water are we talking about that would be draining back into the pool? FRom the pump? From the filter?

- - - Updated - - -

That would work, as long as it isn't the pump fittings that are causing the leak back to the pool. The check valve placed between the filter and the pump, will still stop the water from the filter from going back to the pool, but any leak at the pump will still drain to pool. We are really trying to keep the water in the pump.

What do you mean by "pump fittings that are causing the leak back to the pool"? Are you referring to water or air leaks ? I am very confused.
 
Suction side air leaks are when air is sucked into the plumbing, usually at a joint between two pipes. Water may drain back down into the pool when the pump is off, since the plumbing is not air tight. Much like when you suck up a little liquid into a straw and put your finger over the top. The liquid stays in the straw due to the vacuum the suction created. Let a little air in by moving your finger and you break the suction, and the water drops out of the straw. 99% of air leaks will be in the above ground portion of the plumbing, between the skimmers and the pump.

The best solution may be for your pool guy to investigate and figure out why the pump is not keeping prime, since he can be there to look at it and test all the pipes for air leaks.

Did the pump have difficulty priming before the old filter broke?
 
Suction side air leaks are when air is sucked into the plumbing, usually at a joint between two pipes. Water may drain back down into the pool when the pump is off, since the plumbing is not air tight. Much like when you suck up a little liquid into a straw and put your finger over the top. The liquid stays in the straw due to the vacuum the suction created. Let a little air in by moving your finger and you break the suction, and the water drops out of the straw. 99% of air leaks will be in the above ground portion of the plumbing, between the skimmers and the pump.

The best solution may be for your pool guy to investigate and figure out why the pump is not keeping prime, since he can be there to look at it and test all the pipes for air leaks.

Did the pump have difficulty priming before the old filter broke?

Yes the pump was a chore to prime. It may be worse since the new filter was put in, but I can't say that for sure. Prior to the filter replacement, and early on in this process, my pool guy said that a check valve should solve the problem. He mentioned nothing about air leaks. Fast forward. He invesigated water leaks around my skimmers and found a crack in one skimmer. He sealed that up.

How does one search for an above ground air leak at connections, with water as they do with flat tires?

- - - Updated - - -

test at 615 PM CST July 31st

FC 15.5

added

- - - Updated - - -

Vacuuming issue. I vacuum, and then several hours later dirt has returned to the target area. Is that normal post swamp clearing?
 
Lookin good. Just a bit more clearing to go...when water is "TFP" clear you will be able to see drain screws with filter running.

Vacuuming issue. I vacuum, and then several hours later dirt has returned to the target area. Is that normal post swamp clearing?
I'd say reasonably normal for swamp til ALL silt is filtered or vac'd out.
 
There are a couple of methods for testing pipes for air leaks. With the pump running, drizzle water over the pipe connections and watch to see if any of it is sucked into the joint. Smearing shaving cream over the joints can also show an air leak if the shaving creme is sucked into the joint.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.