Serious help needed
- Thread starter richardc
- Start date
Psi up to 26 back washed, after psi returned to 21
- - - Updated - - -
So you are saying that the water in the lines after the pump, and in the filter may be draining backwards when the pump is off ? If I am understanding you, then you would want a check valve on the suction side in each of my three suction pipes (shallow, deepend, and main drain). or between the filter and the pump? PLus a check valve on the return line? Essentially then you would be "trapping" the water in the filter and exposed pipes making it impossible for the water to flow back into the pool?? But water in the lines up to the check valve would flow back to the pool, correct?
- - - Updated - - -
So you are saying that the water in the lines after the pump, and in the filter may be draining backwards when the pump is off ? If I am understanding you, then you would want a check valve on the suction side in each of my three suction pipes (shallow, deepend, and main drain). or between the filter and the pump? PLus a check valve on the return line? Essentially then you would be "trapping" the water in the filter and exposed pipes making it impossible for the water to flow back into the pool?? But water in the lines up to the check valve would flow back to the pool, correct?
Might be easier to figure out where the leak is. If the system is completely sealed you really shouldn't lose prime.
I don't lose it when its running. Only if I shut it off, or in the few instances when a backwash was way over due and flow was lost. But 99% of the time its when the pump is turned off, and an attempt is made to re-start it. Make sense?
- - - Updated - - -
So that will prevent water returning from the pump and filter back down the lines? What I am asking is this: when the pump is turned off are you indicating that water in the filter, and pump will run back down the suction lines? So by keeping the water in the pump and filter that will help prime?
Can you explain the dynamics of how the system works? Thank you
The idea is to keep the water in the pump from running back down the lines...yes? Do you think there would be enough room to place it between the DS and the pump? Are there different sizes available? Must it be for a pool or will any check valve work that goes in pvc?
Leaks in the system will allow air in to the system when the pump is turned off and will cause you to loose prime once the pump turns off.
Leaks before the pump show up as air bubbles in the pump basket. When the pump is off, leaks before the pump will continue to let air into the system and cause you to loose prime.
Are there any tiny leaks after the pump? This would show up as tiny water drips or moisture areas. When the pump is off, leaks after the pump no longer drip water, but will allow air back into the system, causing you to loose prime.
When the pump is first turned off, do you hear any hissing sounds? This might be a clue as to the location of your leak.
I had several leaks in my system over the years, once the leaks were fixed I no longer lost prime when my pump was turned off.
Check valves are not guaranteed to fix this issue.
I suggest that you first look for leaks in the system. Check valves are handy and I have them, but they are not guaranteed to fix your issue.
Leaks before the pump show up as air bubbles in the pump basket. When the pump is off, leaks before the pump will continue to let air into the system and cause you to loose prime.
Are there any tiny leaks after the pump? This would show up as tiny water drips or moisture areas. When the pump is off, leaks after the pump no longer drip water, but will allow air back into the system, causing you to loose prime.
When the pump is first turned off, do you hear any hissing sounds? This might be a clue as to the location of your leak.
I had several leaks in my system over the years, once the leaks were fixed I no longer lost prime when my pump was turned off.
Check valves are not guaranteed to fix this issue.
I suggest that you first look for leaks in the system. Check valves are handy and I have them, but they are not guaranteed to fix your issue.
BattleOfYakima
TFP Guide
Walls - brush them with soft brush (usually same one you use on floor) - you can do this standing above/behind them up and down, or have the brush sideways and walk around the pool "wall walking" it. This method works better with a brush with a down-force fin, like the whale tail brush design for example. Be careful not to puncture or tear a hole in the liner with any sharp edges of your brush's metal or plastic body structure.
Food for thought, no replies needed: Inspect your brush. Does it have soft or hard widest points? As you brush, what will be the first thing to hit as you push "forward" the bristles or the body? and go from above the water line almost to the bottom (some brushes can go all the way down, others have sharp/old/edges/front that might damage liner). The bottom of the wall 90 degree corner is a great collection point for debris, but unless you have a corner friendly brush, it isn't worth trying to get the bottom from directly above, but instead simply using the current to force a rush of water to kick it up. This can be done on the way down the wall, or from brushing the floor sending water into the corner (again, being careful not to impact liner with any sharp brush hard plastic or metal parts).
- - - Updated - - -
The stain could be organic staining from plant/insect matter decaying on it. If so, these often come out during slam brushing. Hope for that, otherwise remind us after slam ends.
Food for thought, no replies needed: Inspect your brush. Does it have soft or hard widest points? As you brush, what will be the first thing to hit as you push "forward" the bristles or the body? and go from above the water line almost to the bottom (some brushes can go all the way down, others have sharp/old/edges/front that might damage liner). The bottom of the wall 90 degree corner is a great collection point for debris, but unless you have a corner friendly brush, it isn't worth trying to get the bottom from directly above, but instead simply using the current to force a rush of water to kick it up. This can be done on the way down the wall, or from brushing the floor sending water into the corner (again, being careful not to impact liner with any sharp brush hard plastic or metal parts).
- - - Updated - - -
The stain could be organic staining from plant/insect matter decaying on it. If so, these often come out during slam brushing. Hope for that, otherwise remind us after slam ends.
Yes, given the length the pool sat, your stains are likely a mix of organic and metal. So keep FC up to help clear organic...FC and sunlight will fade organic stains over time. After the slam is thoroughly complete, the Metal Magic treatment will help the metal stains.
It would be a good idea this week to look up your well iron level from well report on purchase of the home. That will help us going forward give better strategy intel!
It would be a good idea this week to look up your well iron level from well report on purchase of the home. That will help us going forward give better strategy intel!
Good info....I'll start checking. I am aware of a water discharge leak on my waste discharge line. I don't know if that would have an effect. Any tips on how to locate leaks other than hissing sounds or bubbling
Are there any tiny leaks after the pump? This would show up as tiny water drips or moisture areas. When the pump is off, leaks after the pump no longer drip water, but will allow air back into the system, causing you to loose prime.
- - - Updated - - -
I dont have a well iron report.
- - - Updated - - -
ok, thank you
- - - Updated - - -
Historically, the pump was always difficult to prime. My first pool guy years ago believed that my pump was too weak for my set up. I believe my old pump was 1/4 or 1/2 hp. He changed it out to my current pump which is 1 1/2 hp. That works better but still is an issue. However, priming was never an issue that required a solution...it was just difficult but manageable. So far, it is the same. I would like to solve it though.
Are there any tiny leaks after the pump? This would show up as tiny water drips or moisture areas. When the pump is off, leaks after the pump no longer drip water, but will allow air back into the system, causing you to loose prime.
- - - Updated - - -
I dont have a well iron report.
- - - Updated - - -
ok, thank you
- - - Updated - - -
Historically, the pump was always difficult to prime. My first pool guy years ago believed that my pump was too weak for my set up. I believe my old pump was 1/4 or 1/2 hp. He changed it out to my current pump which is 1 1/2 hp. That works better but still is an issue. However, priming was never an issue that required a solution...it was just difficult but manageable. So far, it is the same. I would like to solve it though.
Test at 630am cst July 31st
FC 18*
CC 0-.5*
Pool clear*
I think I have passed the overnight test?
However, needs more vacuuming as debris has resettled.
Comments?
FC 18*
CC 0-.5*
Pool clear*
I think I have passed the overnight test?
However, needs more vacuuming as debris has resettled.
Comments?
The check valve will prevent water from siphoning out of the pump. It has a flap inside that closes when water flows in the reverse direction. Since your equipment is up hill from the pool, you would be more prone to have water siphon back into the pool when the pump is off. Check valves for pools are designed to be chlorine resistant, where a regular check valve may not, and fail over time.
What was your FC last night?
What was your FC last night?
do you still have that leak from discharge port after new filter and multiportvalve installed?
The leak is in the discharge line that the waste and rinse operations uses. It is the waste line that discharges the water to exit the system. It runs mostly underground for about 15 feet where it expels in my lawn