Seeking opinion on how to power AND plumb a possible new IC60 for my pool

ryan-california

Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
Hey there everyone, it's been a long time since I've posted here on TFP. We built our pool 3 summers ago, and it's been great! I'm strongly considering adding a SWG as we add solar heating and a bunch of other stuff here in the next few weeks.

I've got an easy touch panel, without the IC power center in it. I was wondering if it was worth the trouble to buy the parts and wire it all up in the panel, or if it's really just overkill to do that. I *think* I need 4 parts transformer (521441), breaker (521142z), board (521218) and cable (520724) to add the IC power center to the easy touch.

Are there any benefits to putting it inside (other than a cleaner install)?

Also, has anyone done this? Or have pics of a properly wired up IC power center in an easy touch box? Looking at the parts, it's not SUPER obvious how they all attach - I'd rather not do something wrong ;)

Thanks for your input and comments!

-Ryan
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,459
Bedford, TX
Ryan,

There is no advantage adding the power supply inside the ET except during the initial purchase.. Other than that, it is just a cleaner install..

It looks to me like your list is complete, except an RS-485 cable between the main board and the Surge card (power supply card)..

Good luck with your project.

Jim R.
 

ryan-california

Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
Thanks Jim!

I'll have to decide if "cleaner" is worth a couple hundred bucks. It appears I can pickup a normal power center for around $350 or so and the parts to put it into the EasyTouch will run almost $600. I suspect there will be a power center mounted to a post in my backyard :)

-Ryan
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,459
Bedford, TX
Ryan,

Just remember to run the AC going to the power center through the Pump/Filter relay. This is mandatory to ensure that the cell does not get power when the pump is off.. Do not rely on just the flow switch.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

ryan-california

Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
Thanks Jim! When I pull the trigger on that one, I may have a few more questions to ensure that I don't mess it up. The way my panel is wired up, it appears that the VS pump is wired through that first relay and there is nothing on the load side. I was planning to wire the Intellichlor to the load side; which I assume only closes when the VS is called to do work. I was going to wire it 220 as well.

-Ryan
 

ryan-california

Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
Okay - so I'm going to pickup the IC60 and add a rainbow into it to get CYA up via trichlor during the peak summer season (the floater has always bugged me). Now the question is how to plumb it all in....

I've got two lines of thought on this one - cut before the diverter valve to solar and loop out with a horizontal install of IC60, then on the way back down and to the valve put the rainbow in (option 1) or cut after the solar flow comes back into the return lines (after all the valves) and loop UP for a vertical install of IC60 and then back down have a little horizontal jog of some sort to fit the rainbow on the line.

Suggestions, thoughts? am I missing something super easy to make this less of an awkward plumb in?

IMG_1171 copy.jpg
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,459
Bedford, TX
Ryan,

Normally the IC60 is installed as the last item before the water goes back to the pool/spa...

The main thing is.. if installed in the vertical position, it MUST be installed so that water flows up through the cell.. Do NOT install it with the water flowing down..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

ryan-california

Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
Thanks Jim. So if I come up from "Option 2" via 2 90*'s and do a vertical install with flow UP, and then build a little "hip" (90* to horizontal for the rainbow T and then 90* back down) for the rainbow as the flow comes back down into the existing pipe (currently underground) that would be the "preferred" way to make this happen.

I don't need any check valves or anything given the way that I'm planning it, correct?
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,459
Bedford, TX
If I were to install SWCG and a Rainbow, I would do it in parallel and not in series.

But... I can't understand why anyone would install a Rainbow when you have a SWCG... :scratch:

No check valve is needed for a SWCG.. A check valve is needed for a Rainbow, but only if you have a heater...

Jim R.
 

ryan-california

Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
But... I can't understand why anyone would install a Rainbow when you have a SWCG... :scratch:
Jim - what do you do for CYA? I’ve always used trichlor to bump it. I guess with the SWG I could just use granular cya instead. Figured the rainbow would be an easy way to replace the floater, but I guess that isn’t really needed with the SWG.

If I didn’t do the rainbow, any risk of doing the SWG before the valves? Plumbing is simpler, but don’t want to eat up the valve hardware.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,459
Bedford, TX
Ryan,

The SWCG is normally the last piece of "equipment" before the valves that send the water back to the pool or spa or waterfall or wherever...

There is no risk to the valves at all...

When you need to add CYA you just add the dry CYA to a ladies knee-high stocking and hang it in front of a running pool return.. A few hours and it will all be gone.


Thanks,

Jim R.
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
480
Spring Valley, NY
I don't think there's an issue with the valves and SWCG. That's the way it's done when there's a heater, they plumb it after the heater and before the return valves.