second water test

[Max.VA]

just started with TFPC. did my first sample test on 6/23:
FC 5.0
CC 5.5
pH 7.8
TA 200
CH 275
CYA 50
Salt 3300
Bor 0

over several days ran pump 24x7 and added:
1-1/2 gal 29% Muriatic Acid
260 oz Borax
24 oz dry stabilizer
directed 3 returns toward the surface to "bubble" a bit
pool is covered when not in use

last night's sample 6/28:
FC 7.0
CC 7.5
pH 7.4
TA 160
CH 250
CYA 50
Salt 3300
Bor 30

I'm surprised the TA didn't decrease much and CYA stayed level. Should I continue trying to push TA down? What is the most effective way to aerate a covered pool to keep pH up? When levels are dialed in, I'd like to back off to running the pump 4 hrs in the morning & 4 hrs in the evening.

 

[ajw22]

I'm surprised the TA didn't decrease much and CYA stayed level. Should I continue trying to push TA down?

The only reason to lower TA in your pool is to prevent scaling in your SWG. If you don't get any scaling in your SWG then no reason to push TA down.

What is the most effective way to aerate a covered pool to keep pH up?

You need to open the cover and be creative with what can aerate with your pool setup.

Aeration - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

When levels are dialed in, I'd like to back off to running the pump 4 hrs in the morning & 4 hrs in the evening.

As long as 8 hours of pump runtime are sufficient to generate the chlorine your pool needs you can do that now.

 

[Texas Splash]

If the pH is fairly stable, I wouldn't rush the TA by aerating. It's not a race. Just wait for the pH to hit 8.0 then lower the pH down to about 7.2. Each time you do that the TA will slowly fall. The only time you really need to aerate and speed-up the process is if your pH shoots up really fast every couple days or so. As for the CYA, how did you add it? Did you use the sock method and squeeze it all out? Something else?

 

[Max.VA]

For big chemical adds, I fill a 44 gallon trash can with pool water and add the chemicals to that. After it is mixed for several minutes, I pump the solution back into the pool. As expected, the stabilizer didn't dissolve right away so I let it sit in the can for several hours, mixing periodically until it was mostly dissolved.

 

[Texas Splash]

I fill a 44 gallon trash can with pool water and add the chemicals to that. After it is mixed for several minutes, I pump the solution back into the pool.

You really don't have to go through all that effort. Most products can be poured (slowly) at the return jets. Some items are broadcast spread in the deep end. Granule stabilizer is the only one we recommend using the sock method as noted below. It's quite reliable. If you have any undissolved products on the bottom of the pool, be sure to stir it up or try to vacuum it into the filter. You don't want some chemicals just sitting the bottom as it could change the gelcoat. You can also find each chemical and how to apply it in the recommend chemicals section.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After soaking for about 20-30 minutes, squeeze the sock often to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.