Scammed by pool contractor, trying to pick back up the pieces

[ajw22]

Regarding the anode, I was just pointing out that the anode in its current location would not protect anything but the heater when the heater was bypassed. To protect light niches and ladders, etc, all the time, it would need to be on the other side of the bypass. If the heater is bypassed, does its core need to be protected from standing water? Perhaps another reason to empty the heater of water while its bypassed for any length of time?

I think you are worrying unnecessarily about this heater bypass thing.

The heater bypass is used for short periods of time when pool water quality is suspect or the heater has some problems. The anode is long term protection. It being out of the loop for a while will not matter.

I have never had an anode in my pools and they seem to last fine. If the OP wants and anode I am not going to argue. It may help and can't hurt.

Regarding check valves - we see folks here with problems because they don't have CV's installed in some places and we see folks who have problems because they have a CV and it failed. Lots of pools seem to be out there with few or any CVs and they seem to run OK.

You gave the OP the best advice of leave enough straight runs in the PVC to be able to cut pieces out and make changes. PVC is cheap. Don't try and make it an art piece and tie everything in tight with minimal runs. You need to be able to cut out things like CVs or add them once you learn how your pool system works best.

 

[Dirk]

I think you are worrying unnecessarily about this heater bypass thing.

Here's others' notes on the subject:

Heater Bypass Data
Is there any advantage to a heater bypass?
Should I put in a heater bypass?