Sanitizing pains. Tried SWG, Liquidator, chlorine tablets and bleach. Tired of fighting. Need help. Thinking Ozonator

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My testing with new TA chemicals identified that my old chemicals were reading off (low). I had 120, which is slowing dropping over the weeks and now at 100. All of my other levels are within suggested ranges per pool math. My CSI is slightly positive at 0.08. I noted an earlier comment that a slightly negative CSI is helpful in eliminating buildup inside the salt cell. Does this also pertain to mitigating buildup on surfaces in the entire pool? I have a couple of spots of white buildup on my tile and a step that appeared over the past week, seemingly since I introduced the salt. I've used muratic acid to make this go away in the past so I'm assuming its the same buildup that you get in the salt cell. Will a negative CSI correct this?
 
A slightly negative CSI will assist in keeping the SWCG clean, reduce the amount of calcium flakes you get out of the SWCG when polarity changes, and reduce scale build up at the water line. But you will not eliminate scale build up at the water line if your pool has CH levels of greater than 400 ppm or so, lower if your evaporation is high.

Be sure to edit your signature when you have time. Says SWG(removed).
 
mknauss, signature now updated. Thanks. Pool math suggests 350 to 550 CH. I have 400. Can't go much lower and stay within range. How do you stay within range and keep the scaling down? Also, how do you get rid of scaling below the water line (i.e. its on a step about 6 in below the surface.)
 
If you are concerned about scale, then you use CSI and adjust the parameters to maintain that. The parameters may not be in the 'Ideal' ranges. My CH starts at 250 on a fresh fill and triples in just over one year. I manage that by controlling pH and TA so my CSI stays just negative. Do I get some waterline scale? Yes. With the very high evaporation rates here in the desert, there is no way to prevent it. But my SWCG has never had scale on it. In fact, I know when my TA is getting too high when my SWCG starts shedding calcium scale flakes at polarity reversal.
 
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Scaling below the water line implies you had a very scale formation water chemistry in the not too distant past. Keeping your CSI negative will slowly work on that scale. Pumice stone may be used to remove it, or acid if you can do it without damaging the plaster.
 
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Rancho, when you say the 'first change', I completed this test both times and there was no noticable change until the entire sample went to wht I thought was a brick colour (maybe this was brown??), which happened at 3200. The instructions point out the first change is the indicator as well, and if you get to brown you've gone too far. I never did see the 'first' change. Do you just see the milky salmon colour for a second when the drop hits the solution but it goes away when mixed?
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You're probably doing it right then. The color should remain.
 
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Thanks to all. I was hoping to have some updates on the tuning of the SWG but due to a bunch of very heavy rains and winds (tree Crud in pool a lot) over the past week and this week, I've shocked it pretty good. However, SWG sitting at 2800 and continues to run. I've set it to 50% for the time being and plan to leave it there until I can let the Chlorine settle after these storms
 
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