Sanitizing pains. Tried SWG, Liquidator, chlorine tablets and bleach. Tired of fighting. Need help. Thinking Ozonator

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If and when you have calcium deposits on the cell plates do not use MA stronger than 4:1 ratio. As soon as the fizzing stops rinse well. Keeping your CSI slightly negative will keep the cell clean.

I f you need to shop for a new cell try THESE guys. Have recommended them and used their product several times with perfect results.
 
You need to know the firmware version your controller is using. I believe versions before 1.50 can only use the T-15 cell. Someone please correct me if I am incorrect about the firmware version.
 
Nothing really to add, apart from the fact that I have a salt pool in SW Florida which gets baked for months on end. I've never had a problem with it in the 5 years I've owned it. Once you get the SWG up and running and get on top of the acid, I bet you'll be fine. My pool is truly "troublefree"!
 
Here's where I am so far. Salt at 2800 and adding slowly to get to target of 3000-3100. Directions in the manual suggested operating range is between 2700 and 3400 (with ideal at 3200) so I put it in auto and got a blinking check cell and low salt indicators. Readout noted 1100. Removed cell and there were calcium deposits. Soaked in sln of 4/1 water/muratic acid. Clean, Started it up again and same indications and got a readout of 0 so turned off and went to get more salt in case I needed it. Came home and readout was reading 2800 so tried it in auto again and it started up without giving me any problem indicators. Has been running now for 1/2 hr with no issues.

Diagnostic codes and their operating ranges in the manual.
Average salt level 2800ppm (2700-3400)
Voltage 25.9V (22.0 - 26.0)
Amperage 2.24A (3.1 - 8.0) Outside operating range
Chlorine output setpoint 50%
Instantaneous salt level (-900) Not sure what this means
Cell type T-15 (correct)
AL-0 Don't know what this is
r1.58 Don't know what this is
 
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blairsooley said:
Here's where I am so far. Salt at 2800 and adding slowly to get to target of 3000-3100. Directions in the manual suggested operating range is between 2700 and 3400 (with ideal at 3200) so I put it in auto and got a blinking check cell and low salt indicators. Readout noted 1100. Removed cell and there were calcium deposits. Soaked in sln of 4/1 water/muratic acid. Clean, Started it up again and same indications and got a readout of 0 so turned off and went to get more salt in case I needed it. Came home and readout was reading 2800 so tried it in auto again and it started up without giving me any problem indicators. Has been running now for 1/2 hr with no issues.

Diagnostic codes and their operating ranges in the manual.
Average salt level 2800ppm (2700-3400)
Voltage 25.9V (22.0 - 26.0)
Amperage 2.24A (3.1 - 8.0) Outside operating range
Chlorine output setpoint 50%
Instantaneous salt level (-900) Not sure what this means
Cell type T-15 (correct)
AL-0 Don't know what this is
r1.58 Don't know what this is
Click to expand...
In your pool volume every pound of salt will raise 8ppm salinity.
 
blairsooley said:
Average salt level 2800ppm (2700-3400)
Voltage 25.9V (22.0 - 26.0)
Amperage 2.24A (3.1 - 8.0) Outside operating range
Chlorine output setpoint 50%
Instantaneous salt level (-900) Not sure what this means
Cell type T-15 (correct)
Click to expand...
The average salt level is the just that, an average of the instantaneous readings since the last time the setting was cleared. The instantaneous salt level is the measure of the salinity at that instant. With the set point on 50% it makes Cl half the time and is idle the other half of the time. So it is possible to check the instantaneous salt level and see it at 0 or see the number dancing around as it dials into its reading. .. On the T-15's you want to be on the low end of the range (thanks @ajw22 for that tidbit). Keep in mind It's not uncommon to see a disparity in the Salinity the cell reports and what your test kit measures when the cells are nearing the end of their live..
 
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Good advice here. Make sure you have a proper start and have no algae hiding amd have a successful OCLT.
On a side note whatever you end up replacing coping with SEAL it when they are done. I see alot of stone work and coping chewed away from no sealer and plenty on puck fed pools. The average non swg pool has plenty of salt in it. We seal everything as part of the job package
 

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Based on a bit of research it seems I need a new salt cell. I have a low Amperage. I ran a diag and the instantaneous salt reading is at 1500 (actual is close to 3000) and my average is now reading only 2200 consistently, the low salt and check cell lights have returned. Etc.

Assuming these indicators are correct, I'm looking into purchasing options and there are many, with the prices varying wildly and no obvious distinction between them.

How do you choose between these units when none of them provide spec information? The general consensus seems to be 1.45 pounds/hr, 6A, 13 plates and an expectation of 3-5 years of service between replacements. I assume the difference is in the plate materials as this is a very simple product and they are the only active elements.

Here are a few I came across and their prices. The first one is interesting and seems to be an outlier with its low cost and long warranty.

This one is currently on sale from $479 down to $269 and has a 5yr warranty
saltpoolstore.com

Platinum Edition Compatible Salt Cell for Hayward® T-CELL-15® | 40,000 Gallons | 5-Year Warranty

Hayward Aquarite Salt Water Chlorine Generator Replacement Cell. Hayward Aquarite T-15 40,000 Gallon with Cell Cord. Salt Cell Replacement. 5 YR Warranty Platinum Edition.
saltpoolstore.com saltpoolstore.com

This is a rebuilt one for $380 from the company wireform uses. It has a 1-yr warranty

CG40K **REBUILT by Salt Solutions INC*** – Salt Solutions Inc.

Salt Solutions provides a proven repair option for customers with broken salt chlorinator equipment.
saltsolutionsinc.com saltsolutionsinc.com

This one is $279 and has a 1 yr warranty. They provide a blog comparing their with Hayward, though it provides no true comparison (Hayward T-Cell-15 Salt Cell vs. PoolSupplyWorld Generic T-Cell-15)

Pool Supply World

poolsupplyworld.com poolsupplyworld.com

Amazon has them ranging from $349 for generic up to $749 for the Hayward Goldline, which I currently have
 
Here's another one to throw into the mix with a 2-year warranty. At the risk of sounding like an endorsement, @chlorinatorpro is a forum member and may be able to answer some questions for you. There's some good tech info on the site on well...

Chlorinator, Cell 15, Salt Cell Replacement | Chlorinator Pro

Chlorinator Pro's CP-15 CELL. Replacement Cell for Hayward T-15. For Pools up to 40000 gallons. Includes Free Shipping in USA, 2 year warranty.
www.chlorinatorpro.com www.chlorinatorpro.com
 
Thanks Rancho. I was just reading through the post aj referred to. ChlorinatorPro ($319) and Salt Solutions ($380) are both noted as companies that the members have had good experiences with. Its good to hear that Chlorinatorpro is also a member. I'm sure when there's something wrong with a product, you here about it from this community pretty quickly.
 
Thanks wireform. I checked out that link yesterday. I states T-15 but the picture shows a GLX cell 5. this product is under their "Products we repair' section for $325 (rebuilt??) and there is a different T-15 under the 'Products we sell' section for $380 which is a rebuilt. This is unclear. Do you know what the different is?
 
blairsooley said:
Called salt solutions. The only difference is the core charge. I put in an order. ChlorinatorPro site notes they won't have units until the 25th so that's no bueno.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you are getting the “15” cell and not the “5” cell. The 15 is rated for 40k gal (this is what you want) and the 5 is rated for 20k gal.
 

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