Sanitizing pains. Tried SWG, Liquidator, chlorine tablets and bleach. Tired of fighting. Need help. Thinking Ozonator

Your CYA is 50. We round up. If the dot disappears between 50 and 40 we call it 50.

TA down to 50 is ok. TA of 60-70 is often the sweet spot. Better to stop fighting your TA. Let it drop to its natural equilibrium with your pH.

No pH was listed.

You look fine and are cleared for the SWG install.
 
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Pool math suggest 225 lbs of salt to hit ajw22's suggested target of 3000 ppm. Any final thoughts before I get started?
Add the salt in stages so you don't over shoot. I tend to add half of what I calculate and then retest so I creep up on the value. Nothing worse than miscalculating your pool volume or initial salinity and finding out you overshot! You'll need to add a bit more CYA as well by the good ole FC/CYA Levels. All the other numbers you listed look good.
 
Kit is on order wireform. I get what you're saying but I'm comfortable with the 'creep up' method mguzzy and others suggested so this is a good ballpark for the moment.

ajw22, my pH is 7.8.

mguzzy, I'll be raising the CYA to 70 per the chart. Can this be be done at the same time as salt addition?

And here we go. By the way, the 2" tee required to plumb the SWG flow meter was $40 at Leslie's and $3 at Lowes.
 
Getting there with salt at 2400 and rising. SWG reinstalled and ready to go.

I also reread my OP and realized a made a mistake in my initial posting that the pool guy was suggesting phosphates. This is incorrect. He was suggesting borate. I'm going the SWG direction any but wanted to point that out.
 
Borates are not a bad idea if you have rising pH that you have to address daily or at least several times a week. But best to wait until you really understand your water chemistry before adding another variable.
 
Getting there with salt at 2400 and rising. SWG reinstalled and ready to go.

I also reread my OP and realized a made a mistake in my initial posting that the pool guy was suggesting phosphates. This is incorrect. He was suggesting borate. I'm going the SWG direction any but wanted to point that out.
You may find no need for Borates if you allow the TA to run a little lower. Many of us keep it in the 50 - 60 range rather than your 80 - 90. The higher the TA the faster the pH rises. I agree with Marty, don't introduce a new variable while you are getting things dialed in.
 

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If I'm reading that right that cell is from August of 2005. At 16 years old it is likely ready to be replaced.

Unless.. you didn't say how long it had been turned off. If its been just sitting there for awhile there might be some juice in it. I think I would have a pool store test it. The upside is the replacement cells are readily available and if the controller is still working, it's just 10 min to slap a new one in.
 
Another benefit to a salt water pool is the feel of the water. It just feels...softer? Silkier? Some folks who don't use a SWG still add salt to their water just for the feel of it. I hope you'll notice and enjoy the feel of the water over the previous years water feel.

Maddie :flower:
 
If you require a new cell, see if you can upsize it for little more cost. We always recommend getting a cell at least 2x the size of the pool in gallons. This allows you to use the cell at lower settings and probably extends the life of the cell. My first cell lasted 8+ years and I only just replaced it this year. I never once had to clean it. Each time the cell is cleaned using any type of acid (vinegar, muriatic, whatever) you lose some of the precious metal on the plates which is the magic behind the chemical electric conversion which makes the chlorine. So avoid that as much as possible.

Maddie :flower:
 
mguzzy, I'm guessing it will need a replacement. How do I size a replacement? I have a 15,000 gallon pool. If I'm reading the Hayward info correctly, the T-15 looks like it is designed for 40,000 gallons. If I get a different speced cell, will it have the same form factor and drop into place?
 
mguzzy, I'm guessing it will need a replacement. How do I size a replacement? I have a 15,000 gallon pool. If I'm reading the Hayward info correctly, the T-15 looks like it is designed for 40,000 gallons. If I get a different speced cell, will it have the same form factor and drop into place?
The different Hayward cells are the same form factor. The controller would need to be set to the size of your cell. There was only one controller that I know of that couldn't be set to a different size cell.. what size cell is on there now?
Getting a T-15 for your 15K pool would be perfect. oversizing is never a problem, and potentially just extends the life of the cell.
 

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