Salt level… Taylor kit vs RJ45 display

[MA5177]

My high salt light is flashing, unit says 4400 PPM of salt and my Taylor kit says 3800. Is there a way to calibrate these? It’s still producing chlorine but I may need to dilute

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Before you do anything.... what does your device need? What's the manual say??

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

There is no way to calibrate the salt reading on the RJ-Series. The Taylor test has a +/- 200 ppm correction factor.

A flickering light indicates your salt level is close to the max recommended level. It will continue to produce chlorine until is exceeds the threshold. For now, you're good, but you should consider exchanging water to reduce the salt level.

 

[MA5177]

There is no way to calibrate the salt reading on the RJ-Series. The Taylor test has a +/- 200 ppm correction factor.

A flickering light indicates your salt level is close to the max recommended level. It will continue to produce chlorine until is exceeds the threshold. For now, you're good, but you should consider exchanging water to reduce the salt level.

I guess I will have to do a partial drain, apparently muriatic acid has quite a bit of salt in it and it adds up over time

 

[proavia]

What is your present CH level? Since you have to drain to reduce the salt ppm, might be a great time to reduce the CH as well. Plan for a starting salt ppm of about 2800 ppm- this will provide enough headroom for salt increases due to acid or liquid chlorine additions while still allowing the SWG to produce chlorine.

The SWG will stop producing chlorine once the water temp gets somewhere below 60 degrees - regardless of salt ppm.

 

[jmastron]

What is your present CH level? Since you have to drain to reduce the salt ppm, might be a great time to reduce the CH as well. Plan for a starting salt ppm of about 2800 ppm- this will provide enough headroom for salt increases due to acid or liquid chlorine additions while still allowing the SWG to produce chlorine.

The SWG will stop producing chlorine once the water temp gets somewhere below 60 degrees - regardless of salt ppm.

For many SWCGs (includng most Circupool's I believe) that min temperature is closer to 50-52 degrees. In Phoenix that may mean year-round generation or close to it. Even here where the water drops into the 40s for 2 months, chlorine use at those temps is extremely low (and less important to maintain FC levels, with water too cold to grow algae)

 

[Texas Splash]

FWIW, my K-1766 and RJ readings are typically 300 - 500 ppm apart. I try to stay in that 3,000 - 3,500 range.

 

[MA5177]

What is your present CH level? Since you have to drain to reduce the salt ppm, might be a great time to reduce the CH as well. Plan for a starting salt ppm of about 2800 ppm- this will provide enough headroom for salt increases due to acid or liquid chlorine additions while still allowing the SWG to produce chlorine.

The SWG will stop producing chlorine once the water temp gets somewhere below 60 degrees - regardless of salt ppm.

Last time I checked it it was getting close to 400 but now it’s probably higher, it’s my fault for adding one bag recently because I wanted to run it closer to 3500 but I guess it’s creeping higher.

I will do a partial drain and refill

 

[MA5177]

For many SWCGs (includng most Circupool's I believe) that min temperature is closer to 50-52 degrees. In Phoenix that may mean year-round generation or close to it. Even here where the water drops into the 40s for 2 months, chlorine use at those temps is extremely low (and less important to maintain FC levels, with water too cold to grow algae)

Yeah my RJ45 is way oversized for my 12,500 gal pool. Even in the peak of summer it only runs at 25-30 %, right now 15% and in the winter 5% and or winter mode

 

[MA5177]

FWIW, my K-1766 and RJ readings are typically 300 - 500 ppm apart. I try to stay in that 3,000 - 3,500 range.

I think I’m just going to scrap the Taylor kit and just use what the unit says, mainly because that’s what matters anyways

 

[mknauss]

I think I’m just going to scrap the Taylor kit and just use what the unit says, mainly because that’s what matters anyways

The issue with that is that a SWCG typically shows a false low salinity when it is having some kind of hardware issue. If you only have the SWCG for salinity, you will add salt, which is not what is needed. And then you end up with too high of salinity, and draining water.

In our climate, where you never have overflow or loss of water, unless you have a leak, the salinity should never go down. So as long as you remember that, you may be fine.

 

[MA5177]

The issue with that is that a SWCG typically shows a false low salinity when it is having some kind of hardware issue. If you only have the SWCG for salinity, you will add salt, which is not what is needed. And then you end up with too high of salinity, and draining water.

In our climate, where you never have overflow or loss of water, unless you have a leak, the salinity should never go down. So as long as you remember that, you may be fine.

Exactly mine has an auto fill, so I’m going to drain about 1/3 of the water maybe more after I test my CH.