Salt coming from returns

[JoyfulNoise]

With the SWG off there is no cloudiness. I haven’t set it to 0 yet but when I changed the percentage from 80% to 20% the only thing that changed was the cycle time.

As it should. % output simply adjusts the duty cycle.

I agree with Marty, these are hydrogen bubbles. The SWG produces hydrogen gas and your flow rate is so high that it’s creating a cloud of gas. You can choose to do a lower % output and then run the pump longer. Or, the more costly approach, install a variable speed pump.

 

[FrankM]

If that’s the case, why hasn’t this happened the previous two seasons I’ve been using this SWG? The pump hasn’t changed.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Matt,

Marty and I did not think it was salt, but were thinking that if the salt level is very high that it might cause the cell to produce a lot more FC and therefore more gas bubbles...

We were just looking at what logically might be happening.. I agree with the OP... something has changed and the most logical thing is the salt..

Jim R.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Run the diagnostic mode to see how many hours on the cell. Then it will tell you if the thermistor has gone bad. A bad thermistor will cause the salt reading to be off. A K-1766 test kit should be used to confirm true salt levels. I would suggest not running the SWG until proper chemistry can be established.

If the salinity is in normal ranges, then the FC output is essentially flat over the operating ranges.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

IntelliChlor Diagnostic Procedure

Pressing and holding the “More” button launches the System Status Mode. When the lights finish scrolling, the percent lights indicate hours of usage in 1,000s. For example, if the 40% light lights, that indicates 4,000 hours.
Version 3.1 on adds the ability to determine system temperature. Pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:

Lights……………………Temperature
No LEDs……………………Below 30F
40%...........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%...........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%.............66 to 75F
80%.............................76 to 85F
80 and 100%..................86 to 95F
100%.............................96 to 99F
100% blinking…………….over 99F
All LEDs blinking…………..Sensor bad

 

[FrankM]

2000 hours on the cell and 80% for the temp. 76°-85°, SWG off for now

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Ok. I would not run the cell until you can get a proper salinity test done. You can also pull the cell and visually inspect it for anything strange.

 

[FrankM]

Ok, I won’t, the only test I have is the sticks, waiting on that now.

 

[FrankM]

Test strip said 3300 but I know it’s not very accurate but it’s all I have “for now”

 

[JamesW]

This happens sometimes, although I don't know why. It's not just hydrogen bubbles, because hydrogen bubbles are not that dramatic.

It's not salt, because high salt would show on the cell.

It has to be something reacting to the chlorine gas or hydrogen gas or directly with the plates.

Can you list all chemicals that you have added?

Did you add algaecide?

If yes, what are the ingredients from the label.

This typically will go away on its own.

 

[robertsparker]

I have a different model swg, salt over 3k would seem to be where it should be for my model. I was curious if you did any maintenance on the cell? I try and clean mine twice a year to clean off the clorine scale that builds on the cell while it runs. I have unions on the bootom of my pvc, i disconnect turn upsidw down fill the pipes with water and add a little acid and let it sit for 20 - 30 mins. Your manual should have a cell maintenance section. Though the cloud seems higher than what i’ve seen, wondering if its just a reaction of finally having the correct salt level and cleaning action on the water, working as it should but the water is reacting to the clorine generation.. Make sure your cell electrical contacts are clean / well connected. (Make sure its off for this). Before spending any money on other things i’d recommend the taylor liquid drop test kit. Its a good thing to have with a swg. (My ecomate does not have any electronics for salt level checking. ) When i opened pool last week 25k gallons my salt level was 2400 ppm had to add 120 lbs of salt to bring it to 3000. For me anywhere between 3k-4k is a good salt number. If you removed your cell at winter time, also make sure its was reinstalled the correct direction. Thats my 2 cents! Good luck with the pool!

 

[JamesW]

I can find many posts where this happens, but I don't think that any have a clear answer.

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[FrankM]

This happens sometimes, although I don't know why. It's not just hydrogen bubbles, because hydrogen bubbles are not that dramatic.

It's not salt, because high salt would show on the cell.

It has to be something reacting to the chlorine gas or hydrogen gas or directly with the plates.

Can you list all chemicals that you have added?

Did you add algaecide?

If yes, what are the ingredients from the label.

This typically will go away on its own.

Thanks for the response JamesW, I had stabilizer in socks in the skimmers, could this be the culprit? I took them out this morning, going to let the pump run all day until I get home. Hopefully that will clear this issue.

 

[JamesW]

I don't think that it's from stabilizer.

Has any algaecide been added?

 

[FrankM]

No, no algaecide added.

 

[JamesW]

I don't know what causes the cloud. Hopefully, it will resolve of its own accord. Just maintain good chemistry. Do an OCLT to see if you need to SLAM.

When the pool was closed, was antifreeze added to the plumbing?

If yes, how much?

What other chemicals have been added?

 

[FrankM]

No antifreeze added either, right before I turned on SWG I had FC 0 and TC 0, I may need to do a test for metals, when I pulled the cover off this year the debris had a brown or copper color to it.

 

[JamesW]

Ok, hopefully it will clear up once you get the water back to perfect clarity and chemistry.