Salt chlorinator help

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Saltydawg15

Member
Mar 10, 2021
7
Florida
Please school me on how chlorinators work regarding leveling the chlorine level, do some calibrate the chlorine level vs others just making chlorine at whatever amount they are set to? I’m asking because my pool is reading a high chlorine level and I haven’t gotten it down even though I set the chlorinator to the lowest level.

Thanks
 
As mentioned above a swg just produces at the rate you have it set to with % & run time they do not monitor fc levels & adjust.
Along with telling us what swg you have & your pool volume, what % do you have it set to & how long is it running?
Also can you please post your results that make you feel your fc is high?
Fc
Cc
Cya
 
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How are you testing your pool? Are you taking it to a store for them to test it or are you testing yourself with a reliable kit like a TF-100, TF-Pro, or Taylor K-2006C?
 
Howdy Salty and welcome aboard! As others have mentioned a little more information would help. A great place to put is in your "signature". It's that info at the bottom you see on our posts. Here's how to do it.

SWG works by passing a current into the cell that is usually titanium plated with a catalyst. This converts salt in your pool to chlorine and sodium (salt is sodium chloride). So your pool is still a chlorine pool. Instead of having to lug jugs of chlorine or tablets you make it right there in your pool. If you've started the swg at it's lowest level and your FC isn't dropping how much time are you running it? Normally, we recommend an swg that is sized for 2x the size of your pool and you can usually start up at 50% running for 6-10 hrs per day. That said these numbers vary a LOT. If your swg doesn't fall into TFP recommendations it will certainly still work but you may have some issues later on. We can talk about that later. You will also want to download Pool Math. It's a great tool to help you with initial settings and make adjustments. You can set up your pool and swg equipment model info then figure out settings very easily. I found it to be amazingly accurate! We can talk you through using it when you're ready if needed. You are going to need a recommended test kit asap to use our methods. We don't sell anything and you can get one at several places. A lot of us used tfteskits but there are many other places.Test Kits Compared

I hope this answers your initial questions and please let us know if you have any additional.

Chris
 
Saltydawg15 said:
Thank you, my pool is 15,800 gallons and I have a purechlor rated for 40,000 gallons, per the pool store the chlorine level is 6.5, I have recently purchased a TF100 kit but I must be doing something because I get 14.5 ppm.
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Trust your test over the pool store. With that said - 14.5 is not necessarily “high” or a worry. Pools are safe to swim up to SLAM level.
 
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***EDIT*** Whoops, I had the wrong pool volume entered into Pool Math. Corrected numbers are below. Methodology is the same.

Salty,

I believe your swg is rated at 1.65 #/day. If you run at 50% for 6 8 hrs per day you will be adding about 2.3 2.1 ppm FC/day. This time of year I was able to run at 2 ppm or so in South Florida. This should be a good starting point for you. I would start at these settings. If your FC doesn't stabilize cut runtime an hour per day then wait 2 days and adjust again. Word of caution: your FC will not be constant. Make adjustments such that you are cycling between target and a couple ppm higher. You don't want to have the cycles bottom out at minimum. Let the range run high until you get the hang of it and don't over-adjust, It'll drive you nuts. If you ever get close to minimum accidentally just add liquid chlorine and start the process again. This usually only takes a few days or week max to get stable. Also, trust your test kit. It's way more accurate than most pool stores. I know that's not intuitive but we see this all the time. The recommended test kits are chosen because they are the most proven reliable for pool owners just like you and waaaaay better than poorly maintained equipment and poorly trained pool store people. There are some stores that are great but the problem is you don't know which kind you have 'till it's too late. While you're getting the hang of this get a Taylor K-1766 test kit for salt. The readout on chlorinators is notoriously inaccurate. How old is your pool, and salt system? What kind of pool do you have (in ground plaster, above ground, in ground liner, fiberglass)? You've probably read this on other threads here but I'll say it just in case. Avoid pool stores at least until you understand how TFP works. You can get acid at big box stores much cheaper and it's the same chemical. Just look for muriatic acid 31.45%. Liquid chlorine is getting real expensive these days and often WM is the best price. Soon you won't need much but may be a good idea to keep a gallon on hand 'till you get the swg lined out. Can you please post a set of your test results from the TF 100? Experts here will make recommendations to help you make any needed changes and we really need a complete set to make sure you get the right advice.

I hope this is helpful. Pretty soon you'll be on easy peasy street the TFP way.

Chris
 
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