Running new electrical.. where to put panel? What kind?

[david_]

Background:

• My existing line from my house load center to the pool pad was galvanized steel and has corroded. It needs to be replaced.
• My existing lights conduit is brass and still good.
• Today, I have no automation, but am open it to depending on cost.

My current plan:

• Abandon the corroded line from the house (200A) to the pad
• Add a subpanel in the garage (60A) to feed the pool and well pump.
• Run multiple circuits from 60A panel to equipment in conduit
  • 20A GFCI 240v to Intermatic timer and pump (hot/hot)
  • 20A GFCI 240v to heater/blower (hot/hot)
  • 20A 240v to well pump (hot/hot)
  • 20A GFCI 120v to lights (hot/neutral/ground)
• Add VSP Pump and SWG in future.

Questions:

1. Would it be better to run larger feeder wire all the way to the pad, and put subpanel at pad?
   1. If so, what kind of panel? One with automation?
2. How do you transition from brass to PVC so I can extend my pool light circuit?

Yellow is my existing light lines. Red are existing panels. Purple would be "new build".

 

[1poolman1]

Background:

• My existing line from my house load center to the pool pad was galvanized steel and has corroded. It needs to be replaced.
• My existing lights conduit is brass and still good.
• Today, I have no automation, but am open it to depending on cost.

My current plan:

• Abandon the corroded line from the house (200A) to the pad
• Add a subpanel in the garage (60A) to feed the pool and well pump.
• Run multiple circuits from 60A panel to equipment in conduit
  • 20A GFCI 240v to Intermatic timer and pump (hot/hot)
  • 20A GFCI 240v to heater/blower (hot/hot)
  • 20A 240v to well pump (hot/hot)
  • 20A GFCI 120v to lights (hot/neutral/ground)
• Add VSP Pump and SWG in future.

Questions:

1. Would it be better to run larger feeder wire all the way to the pad, and put subpanel at pad?
   1. If so, what kind of panel? One with automation?
2. How do you transition from brass to PVC so I can extend my pool light circuit?

Yellow is my existing light lines. Red are existing panels. Purple would be "new build".

View attachment 478314

Always best to bring as large a circuit as you can to the equipment pad. Pentair, Hayward, and Jandy automation systems are all available with sub-panel power/load centers, usually 125A panels. If you don't get automation now, an Intermatic T30401R also has a 125A subpanel built in along with two time clocks.
If your existing light is using red-brass conduit, that likely is also the bond and a new bond wire should be run from the light niche to the new j-box then attached to the existing pool bond wire as well. A brass pipe adapter can be sweat/soldered/brazed onto the conduit and then PVC conduit run from that point.

 

[david_]

If your existing light is using red-brass conduit, that likely is also the bond and a new bond wire should be run from the light niche to the new j-box then attached to the existing pool bond wire as well. A brass pipe adapter can be sweat/soldered/brazed onto the conduit and then PVC conduit run from that point.

Thanks! I'll check out those boxes.

Regarding bonding.. to make sure I'm following: the metal light niche housing needs to be connected to the bonding system. They probably didn't bond it via a separate wire, but instead used the metal conduit from the light to the pad, which was then bonded via #8 wire to the larger grid.

So I either need to.. extend the metal pipe all the way back to the pad ($$$), or clamp some #8 on the brass and run it to the bonding wire already at the pad ($), or convert to LED?

 

[ajw22]

Converting lights to LED does not remove the requirement to have a water bond which your existing light niche provides.

 

[david_]

Milestone completed today.. I ended up moving the pool load center from the house to the equipment pad. After a week or so, it's pretty much done.

I ran 2-2-2-4 MHF on 60A breaker from the back corner of the shop out to the equipment pad feeding the old load center I already had. I also replaced my spa light J-box with a proper pool light junction box.

Pump/Heater/Blower (switched) are on one 20A GFCI breaker.
Pool lights (switched) on other GFCI breaker.
GFCI outlet protecting next circuit, with switched pad light up top.




Next up -

1. Replace pool pad w/ poured concrete.
2. Swap in Calimar 3HP VSP Pump to replace my old one.
3. Build ~6ft fence to enclose pad.
4. Resurface pool/coping/tile and run new conduit from pool light to Intermatic box at pad.