RJ45+ and PH down dry acid OMG!

Mavven

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2021
60
NY
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
This is my first year going salt, my second year owning a new AGP. I have my RJ45+ dialed in perfect, she's been running like a champ. Run my 2HP 2 speed pump on low from 9am to 7pm @25% output. Holding a consistent 7-7.5ppm FC. Was doing 7am-7pm but days are getting shorter here in upstate NY and I was getting over 8ppm FC which I felt was overkill.

The ONLY thing I've had to do to maintain the pool is add PH down every week to two weeks. Unknown to me, I've been using dry acid!

Fast forward to last night. My wife decides she wants to go night swimming, which we never do. I had just run the dolphin, so I decided to run the pump and SWG while she was in. Don't ask me why, I just did. To my surprise I noticed a red light flashing on the unit. It was the "high salt" warning. This was the first time, it was showing 5,800ppm salt. So I grabbed my taylor kit and got exactly 19 drops to brick red. So that's 3,800ppm on the money. I shut the unit off, came inside to read the manual and try to trouble shoot the situation.

Upon reading the manual, I came across a section titled "not recommended" 🤦‍♂️ it said don't ever use dry acid to lower PH, as it will damage the salt cell. I keep track of everything. So far this season I've used about 6 pounds of dry acid. I love keeping my PH at exactly 7 4 so once I see it creep up to 7.6-7.8 I add PH down.

Few questions... Does anyone think I have done damage to the cell?

I have a child who is Ventilator/oxygen dependent. From what I read, I need to buy Muratic acid. Problem is, I have about 35 oxygen tanks in my garage and I have propane for our standby generator, that line runs in our basement. So the only two places I can store it. Is it dangerous to store in both conditions?

Btw... just went outside to check on the SWG and mysteriously all is fine. It's reading 3,800 ppm salt and generating fine without and warning lights.

Any help would be appreciated, as my PH is 7.8 and this is when I usually drop it to 7.4. I really feel the unit has been on auto pilot. All other numbers are fine TA is 80-90ppm CYA is 60 and like stated above FC is 7-7.5ppm.
 
Could've been just a weird anomaly with the high reading. Now that it's back to normal I would just watch it. As for the MA, is there anywhere outside you can store it? You don't want it in the garage or around any equipment. Major corrosion.
 
Could've been just a weird anomaly with the high reading. Now that it's back to normal I would just watch it. As for the MA, is there anywhere outside you can store it? You don't want it in the garage or around any equipment. Major corrosion.
I'm confused, corrosion to the acid or to equipment? Also, do you think I've done damage to the cell by using 12 pounds of dry acid?

As usual, thanks for the response.
 
corrosion to the acid or to equipment?
Equipment/metal. Muriatic Acid is extremely corrosive. Believe me, I know. I learned the hard way in a shed. I keep my MA outside away from anything & everything metal.

As for damage to the cell, I wouldn't think so just yet. If the cell is still performing well you should be fine. That odd salt reading and shut-down could've been just an odd occurrence.
 
I'm confused, corrosion to the acid or to equipment?
Muriatic acid is hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water.

The hydrogen chloride gas can escape from the solution and the vented cap released the gas, which is super corrosive.
Also, do you think I've done damage to the cell by using 12 pounds of dry acid?
Probably not.

It may shorten the cell life some, but it's probably not going to ruin it in a short period of time.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Only place I can think to store it, would be at the bottom of my basement steps outside. Only concern is I have neighbors with young kids. I worry if they ever got their hands on it.

Also, I'm trying to locate MA at home depot. It seems they have a liquid that's not 100% MA. Is this something I should buy online? Any suggestions?
 
Get a Home Depot or Lowes five gallon bucket with lid. Put the muriatic acid jug in that bucket, and push on the lid. Store it out of the way, away from metal.

Somes states restrict the sale and/or transport of full strength MA. Normally you can still get half strength, 14.5%.
 
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I'm trying to locate MA at home depot. It seems they have a liquid that's not 100% MA. Is this something I should buy online? Any suggestions?
You can check both the pool and paint sections. You should be looking for MA that is 20 Baume 31.5% strength if possible.
 

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That should work. Since it mentions low fumes I'm assuming it's the lower strength of about 14.5%. I can't see an ingredients label on that image.
Would you mind scrolling down to read the product description? If I'm correct, I can use the pool math calculator as if its full strength MA correct?
 
Would you mind scrolling down to read the product description? If I'm correct, I can use the pool math calculator as if its full strength MA correct?
Oops. How did I miss that? :hammer:

  • Clean, clarify and etch like full strength 20° Baume, 31.45% muriatic acid*

That will work just fine!
 
“Cleans, clarifies, and etches like full strength muriatic acid”.

It says “like” full strength, but they specifically avoid providing the actual strength.

You can get a good idea by checking the TA before and after to see if it has the expected result.
 
Okay, so I picked up the acid magic, as posted from the link above. My PH was 7.6 I like it at 7.3 (lol I know odd number) so I typed in the numbers in the pool math and it came up with 24 ounces of liquid.

So here's where I'm confused. I've read some posts from members here, stating, they don't like to use MA to clean there salt cell plates. As they feel it shortens the length of the plates. But if I'm adding MA to lower my PH every week or so, isn't that going to affect the plates in a negative manner? This has me nuts. I loved using the dry acid, super simple and spot on with lowering my PH to 7.3 everytime.

Am I missing something here? I understand the dry acid causes sulfur (if I'm not mistaken) buildup, which I guess isn't good for the cell plates. But if MA isn't great for cleaning the plates, what makes it so great for lowering PH and not wearing out the plates prematurely?

Totally baffled 🙄🤔
 
 
If you add it near a deep return jet, by the time it mixes into the water and passes through the filter it won't be anywhere near a concentration to cause concern.
Okay, that makes legitimate sense. Thank you for that. So would the same be true, when I was unknowingly adding dry acid to lower the PH?

I would add it at the return jet with a measuring cup. I would add it slowly so the granules would instantly dissolve.
 

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