Rheem heater won’t ignite, etc

[Poolmor]

Hi, having trouble with my system this year. When we opened our pool in May, we noticed that the plumbing pipes to our heater were deformed. No one seems to know why. The heater was shut down for the winter by a good pool company. It worked just fine when we started it up. The pipes are the first question; should we worry about this?

Then later, we realized that the multiport valve area seems to be leaking. It’s very slow drip, and though I told our pool company about it we weren’t in a rush to have it checked because the pool worked just fine.

But yesterday, our heater refused to ignite. It says “ignition failure” and “no pilot sensed”. The heater was bought and installed in late 2018. I need my heater to work; hate cold water. Any ideas? These my all be separate issues, but I’m perplexed because other than having to replace my super pump, we’ve had no trouble with our system.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi, having trouble with my system this year. When we opened our pool in May, we noticed that the plumbing pipes to our heater were deformed. No one seems to know why. The heater was shut down for the winter by a good pool company. It worked just fine when we started it up. The pipes are the first question; should we worry about this?

Then later, we realized that the multiport valve area seems to be leaking. It’s very slow drip, and though I told our pool company about it we weren’t in a rush to have it checked because the pool worked just fine.

But yesterday, our heater refused to ignite. It says “ignition failure” and “no pilot sensed”. The heater was bought and installed in late 2018. I need my heater to work; hate cold water. Any ideas? These my all be separate issues, but I’m perplexed because other than having to replace my super pump, we’ve had no trouble with our system.

The deformed plumbing will have to be replaced. While not seen much with newer heaters, that is usually caused by not cooling a heater before shutting off the pump.
Pictures of the inside of the heater may help. Ignition failure can be caused by the flame-sensing "fork" that is above the pilot flame being dirty. After that check the gas supply line. Is the shut-off cock open? Is the main gas valve in the heater in the "ON" position? If this is propane, is the tank empty?

 

[Poolmor]

Thank you! Where can I find this “fork”? The gas lines were all checked and they are open. It’s attached to a gas line, so no propane. I haven’t posted in a while so I had to go outside and get all of my info so everyone can see my equipment models.

 

[Poolmor]

And how should you clean it? Just a damp rag?

 

[1poolman1]

And how should you clean it? Just a damp rag?

It is above the pilot flame. Follow the small aluminum tubing from the main gas valve to find it. May have to remove the burner tray to get to it. The picture is upside down but you see it. Needs to be cleaned with a mildly abrasive scrubbing pad but not sandpaper.

 

[RLP]

Do you have proper flow in gallons per minute through the heater?

Really is should be CPVC pipe after the heater, PVC is not rated for high temp.

 

[ajw22]

Really is should be CPVC pipe after the heater, PVC is not rated for high temp.

PVC is fine. Heater output is never higher then 115-120F which is well within Schedule 40 PVC specs.

 

[Poolmor]

Do you have proper flow in gallons per minute through the heater?

Really is should be CPVC pipe after the heater, PVC is not rated for high temp.

How can I calculate the flow? I do have the deformed pipes which may be limiting flow, and the slow drip from the multiport valve.

 

[ajw22]

The deformed pipes are caused by the heater running with no water flow through it.

Is the heater wired so the heater is powered off when the pump is powered off?

You should replace the deformed pipes before running the heater.

There may be other internal damage causing the heater not to light. That heater should be checked by a NATE certified heater tech.