Results two years and two court dates later

I started filling the pool 6 hours before the meter came but the results were:

Pool
Unmetered @ 7gpm 2520 gallons
Metered 9140 gallons
Total 11,660 gallons (plus some rain)

Spa
Metered 960 gallons (suspect)

I went back out to look at the spa and the level had dropped 3/4 of an inch since filling. While filling, there was some gurgling but thought it was just air in the pipes. Also heard water trickling in the deck drains on that side. Bottom line, one of the Jandy valves that will be electrically operated and normally closed was allowing water to flow back into the pool and out the overflow which goes into the deck drains. At least, that is what the plumber told me. Said since it was normally closed unless in the spa mode, they don't put check valves on it.

So not sure how many gallons the spa held but the pool numbers should be fairly close.

Pictures of the plumbing and the pool since it was filled. There is more work to be done on the equip when the electrical is done.

66933665522__75D02AAC-1167-43FB-8400-E99AD34EBF3D.jpgIMG_1539.jpg
high iron in my well water
When we first drilled our well, there was no iron. Years later it got heavy (possibly due to the metal pipes it was eating up, now replaced with plastic) And now no longer noticeable but don't know if/how much might be there since it's been years since any testing. Just didn't want the staining problem.
 
Good news is that since the spa is round, it's an easy and relatively accurate calculation to be able to estimate the gallons. Simple math there. Not like trying to estimate a freeform pool.

--Jeff
 
The spa lost about 1-1/2" last night. There is not a check valve because he said the valve would be normally closed unless in the spa mode. He had me close a valve and said it would stop the water from draining back into the pool but it is still getting back into the pool.

All the lines have been under pressure for many weeks/months but everything was not plumbed independently. I will take up with the plumber or whoever comes back out but does anyone here have any ideas of what might be going on? At this point, I have no idea of what/where all the pipes go since nothing is labeled. Plumber did say he would come back out and label everything as to what it was and the direction of water flow.

Black line is the valve he had me take lift the handle and rotate. Don't know if anyone can make out from these pictures what is what? My worst nightmare would be if there were a plumbing problem under all this concrete decking. But since everything was holding pressure, I am hoping that it's something above ground they can resolve.

PS: The one pipe stubbed up is going to the air lines in the spa and yet to be connected.

IMG_1556.jpgIMG_1557.jpg66933915871__8B25DB11-D3FB-450C-93F6-776C66FAB23C.jpg
 
Last edited:
Did you send the PB a picture to make sure you put the valve correct? I thought to close it the handle would face the other way but I'm not positive.
Correct. The valve in the pic is open to water flow all 3 ways.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TampaKathy
At least one issue was found to be water seeping out of the spa led conduit. I noticed the deck staying wet around the equip, blew it off with a blower and found water seeping from the conduit.

There may have (or still) be an issue with valves because I could hear water trickling down in the deck drains where the pool overflow is tied into.
Did you send the PB a picture to make sure you put the valve correct?
I did message the builder but ended up talking with the plumber that did the work.
Correct. The valve in the pic is open to water flow all 3 ways.
Are you saying the valve that has the black line toward it is still in the wrong position? Plumber had me unscrew the handle, lift up half way to get over the stop, and rotate the handle to where it is shown to close off the drain in the spa. I sent him a pic and he said that was correct. Are you saying it is not? I have not listened to the deck drains today to see if I still hear the trickling sound. What I know for sure is that part of the issue will be taken care of when they install the led light into the spa. But I still suspect that's not all the issue and it's coming from the spa drains, etc.

For now, I have capped off the conduit as best I can leaving in the pull string. Wrapped with silicone wrap and tape. It was a slow leak as is so it should be OK for a day or two or three?
IMG_1561.jpg
 
Are you saying the valve that has the black line toward it is still in the wrong position? Plumber had me unscrew the handle, lift up half way to get over the stop, and rotate the handle to where it is shown to close off the drain in the spa.

I do not understand your plumbing to say if valves are in the correct position.

The straight red lines show where the diverter is positioned to stop water flow.

The red arrows show what I think is the suction path to the pump.

Not labeling all pipes and valves is plumber and builder malpractice.


kanel valves.jpg
 
I stopped the LED conduit leak but water was still escaping from the spa. I will set all the valves to stop and see what happens.

Not labeling all pipes and valves is plumber and builder malpractice.
That's sort of funny because when the plumber got here he was talking about how much harder his job was because nothing was labeled and yet, when he leaves, nothing is labeled. I asked him what was what and he says he will come back next week and label. I was thinking he might be good at his job but the lack of labels along with not anchoring anything down makes me wonder. I don't know if most anchor their pumps but the heat pump not being anchored is a no no for me. It has a lot of surface area to get picked up by strong winds. So that will have to be anchored.


So they still have to install lighting and run its cabling???
Yes, I am told by the plumber that the electrician will install those. The screw in fittings are in place ready when they are.
 
I can't see a hard plumbed pump and motor blowing but definitely that heat pump. Windstorm code here. Kinda surprised the electricians didn't do those pulls when would have been all dry work.
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I can't see a hard plumbed pump and motor blowing but definitely that heat pump. Windstorm code here. Kinda surprised the electricians didn't do those pulls when would have been all dry work.
The plumber connected it to the pipes and the electrician will power it up. Maybe the plumber thought anchors fit better with the electrical part:)

I'm not worried about the pumps blowing away but I would still prefer them anchored to minimize any torque on the plumbing pipes.

But as the unofficially designated project manager, a job I assumed because no one else was out here overseeing things, I will make sure it is taken care of.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TampaKathy
I'm getting a bit anxious waiting on the builder to begin start up. The PH level is one concern not knowing what effect the PH being out of wack might have on the new plaster. Then there are some old leaves and debris from trees landing in the pool and concern about potential staining of the plaster from the tannins.

So the water has not been tested, their is no power to the equip and the pool has been sitting since Thursday. I was told they'd get to it by Monday. That will be 4 days since it filled with nothing being done. Should I be concerned about long term plaster health? Is there anything I can do without the pump running in the meantime? If they aren't coming on Monday, I feel like I should take matters in my own hands and at least start getting the ph under control.

Thoughts?
 
Not a major problem with your plaster being under water at least.

I would not add acid without your pump running and circulation in the pool.

What I would do is brush the pool well a few times a day to keep the palster dust from caking to the pool surfaces. Keep the plaster dust in suspension until it can be filtered out.

@onBalance would you suggest anything be done to new plaster under water but no equipment running yet?
 
I don't see why you couldn't put some liquid chlorine in maybe 3ppm worth and use the brush to mix it in or even a submersible pump from a little bit.
I will see what/if anything the builder does tomorrow and go from there. I have a test kit ordered and it is showing now in GA but a Tue delivery. Don't have a submersible pump so that's not an option at the moment.
 
What will the consequences be on new plaster and it's lifespan if the water is not balanced until after a week has passed?

Questions around this topic have been posted elsewhere on this site but at this point, I am still unclear as to whether it will cause any long term issues or not.

None of the equip is powered, the builder keeps pushing it further out and I am getting increasingly frustrated with things not progressing as they should.

Thanks
 
If you don't have a test kit yet, perhaps you could call the local water department and find out what your tap water is that filled your pool. Find out what the pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness is. That will give me a good idea on what is happening to your plaster finish now. But I would guess that the water is okay and not causing damage to the plaster.
Brushing is good. Continue to brush.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.