Restoration project

The wall and floor are done.

I'm now trying to get the old paint off. My cement guy used his angle grinder with a diamond cup and removed a 12" x12" section in 10 secs, I tried renting the same grinder with a $175 diamond cup and was only able to melt and smudge the paint. Needless to say, I was a little disappointed.

I may try a 4500 psi pressure washer this weekend. My 2200 psi pressure washer gets 60-70% of it off.

My next problem is getting it painted with the current temperatures. Here in Quebec the average day is 60 farenheit and the evenings fall to 40 F or below.
I was thinking of covering the entire pool with a tarp and installing a heater the day before, then remove the tarp and paint during a nice day, then tarp and heat.
Does this make sense?

I've also got a few fissure cracks that I'm going to fix with epoxy injection, followed up with a v-groove and cement.

I need to paint it in order to put water in it for the winter.
 
brownsburg said:
the liner was our original idea, but I don't see why I wouldn't paint it.

Beacuse paint doesen't have the lifespan of a liner. The waterline seems to be the critical area in epoxy painted pools. Epoxy have a tendensy to chalk when it's exposed to UV. A tiled waterline will not only help you with that problem but would also give the pool a better appearance.

I covered my pool with a tarp and heated it up before/after I poured the walls and it worked perfectly fine.
If I were you, I would build up a simple frame made of wood so I would get the extra roof height and let the tarp stays on during the whole process. That way don't you have to worry about debris blowing down on the wet paint.
 
A liner would also allow a "slip plain" if the wall decides to crack again, whereas paint will not. Paint will also give you about 2 years of use before you will have to redo it again (from my experience).
 

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A slip plain allows for movement between a rigid (in this case the pool shell) and the surface (here, the liner). Slip sheets are used on concrete floors, for example, before setting tile. This allow the substrate to move under the slip sheet and not transfer the crack in the slab through the tile. Rigid on rigid does not get along well!

If you have a crack again in the pool shell, it will "telegraph" through the paint and you will have a leak. The liner would not be subjected to the same issues and would hold water.
 
Thanks for this simicrintz.

I was under the impression of the opposite. I thought that if this wall decides to start to crack again, I would be better off seeing it and fixing it with epoxy injection before it gets too bad. If it starts to crack behind the liner, even if I can feel it, I would have to remove the liner to fix it. This would scrap the liner.

When the pool was originally installed, there was at least three feet thick by the depth of the pool of sand around three sides of the pool. The fourth side(the one that cracked) only got 8 inches of sand and the rest is extremely hard soil. I plan on refilling all sides with healthy amounts of appropriate sand and a french drain in 12 inches of gravel at the four foot deep point. I've also removed the mature tree that was three feet from the crack, along with all it's roots.

All that to say, cross my fingers, I hope that this repair is good for a long time.
 
If you need to add a new main drain, return lines, skimmer etc.,
I would make sure to install the type that will work with a vinyl liner.
In the future, if you decide to add a liner, you will just need to install
the aluminum coping.

-Brad-
 
Thanks Brad,

but the skimmer is already in. If I had to, i'd close the main drain.

I really don't think the liner would be a good option though. If this developes any cracks, I want to be finding them and fixing them right away.
 
I still dont know what the capped pipe was for, it was just sitting in there. It had holes up the side of it, maybe it was to check for water levels after they filled the pool with dirt.

There was no skimmer. I've added one, you can see it in my last attached photo.
 
Don't kid yourself on any "paint" type finishes. You'll be lucky to get 3 years out of them (I've never seen one go two years, in my area). If you can get the pool plastered, that would be the best bet. You should see about ten years out of a plaster finish, and can get upgraded finishes that will last longer. I would sure take a look and see if you can afford to go that route before you decide on "paint".

Hi Bruce,

so we've decided that we're not that crazy about the idea of paint if we're going to have to redo it every two - three years. While in the hugh pool store my wife wonders over to the inground pools that they have on display and admires the marblite finish that two of the pools have. The sales guy says that it last up to 20 years and is guaranteed for 10 years. (to be taken with many grains of salt)

So the guy gives us/her a quote our pool shape/size of $10800 installed.

This includes sandblasting / $2000
12" of really nice tiles around the perimeter/scumline $2500 installed
Marblite finish $6300

I found this rather cheap compared to having to pay $1000 per paint job every few years.

1) Is it a good option for my unconventional pool? I have a few fisher cracks on top of that crazy repair that I did on that far wall.
Will this stuff fall off with time? I know that all cement crack but what's the result on the finish?

2) I'm going to get a price for plaster as well. Would this be a better option for my old pool?


I'm doing this to reduce maintenance/painting. So if it's going to be a problem I'd rather not waste the money.

This truly is one of the best forums.
Thanks
 
Update.

Nobody except for the big pool place wants to do my exposed aggregate here in Quebec. One other place that does it, only does it for there own installations and doesn't recommend it for mine.(even though he wouldn't do it anyhow) They all say to paint.

So I've come down to one company who has been doing exclusively cement pools for the last 28 years. The guy is so charismatic that it's scary. I just wanted to give him all my money :lol:
But I've held off for the weekend.

I've basically asked him to quote on the same parts of the job as I've ask the other two companies. He came back to me with a general price and said that he's going to do all the pretty stuff that I asked for plus fix all the other things that need to be done that I was going to do myself. I'm the pool builder he tells me, let me do my job. You can watch: ). He's right. There is a lot of little things that I was going to do that could require being redone in a year or two if not done correctly. You wouldn't believe the conversation we had in his office, laughing the whole time.

Here is my only qualm. He's telling me that I have to go saltwater and that he's doing all of his pools this way.(he only does cement)
Although every other company that I've spoken with has told me to go chlorine for a cement pool as the salt eats the cement.

Any thoughts?


BTW,
He can start in three weeks and has assured me that they would be there every possible day.


I could post the work decription if anyone would like to see it.
 

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