Replumbing pump, avoiding cavitation

So should I do without the union before the pump? I put it in so I wouldn’t be using the union going into the pump basket all the time but I have a ram bit and could replace the whole run of pipe into that pump union from the Jandy valve to make it straight (or move the union up against the Jandy valve instead). As it is I was planning on just replacing the half of the union closest to the valve so I wouldn’t need to add any additional couplers there.

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I would use 2" plumbing from the valve to the pump with no additional union.

The Jandy valve and the pump union can take 2" slip to the outside.

I would replace the pump union.
 
I would use 2" plumbing from the valve to the pump with no additional union.

The Jandy valve and the pump union can take 2" slip to the outside.

I would replace the pump union.
Was kind of hoping to do the work today instead of waiting for a new pump union. If I ram bit out the inside of the pump union can I just re-use that as the inside of the 2” pipe?
 
Yay for follow up questions

On closing, I like to put some anti-freeze down the suction side pipes. That was one reason I had the union there. There isn’t a problem with opening the Jandy valve once a year to use that to put the antifreeze into my pipes with, correct?
 
Yay for follow up questions

On closing, I like to put some anti-freeze down the suction side pipes. That was one reason I had the union there. There isn’t a problem with opening the Jandy valve once a year to use that to put the antifreeze into my pipes with, correct?

I don't see the union creating a problem and would keep it for your winterization.

Opening up the Jandy valve leads to the problem you have with stripped and cracked screw holes. The less you touch it the better. Unions are made to be opened.

That is my 2C.
 
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I don't see the union creating a problem and would keep it for your winterization.

Opening up the Jandy valve leads to the problem you have with stripped and cracked screw holes. The less you touch it the better. Unions are made to be opened.

That is my 2C.
I’ll go get a 2” union then and put it as close to the Jandy valve as I can.
 
I used the ram bit to remove the 1-1/2” pvc going into the union. It’s pretty rough inside where the water would pass into the strainer basket. Any issues from that?
 
I used the ram bit to remove the 1-1/2” pvc going into the union. It’s pretty rough inside where the water would pass into the strainer basket. Any issues from that?

Can you smooth it with some sandpaper?
 

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Originally that fitting was tapered, it is now straight. I always put a layer of PVC glue on the inside and let it set, then go ahead and glue in a pipe.
I’m using a 2 inch pipe around the outside now. Nothing will go on the inside of that and water will just flow by it.
 
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Lol I’m on my fifth trip to Home Depot now because my PVC glue has completely solidified in the year that I haven’t used any

1st: 1-1/2” pipe, two elbows, four couplings, two unions in case I need one side to go to the existing unions

2nd: 2” pipe for the intake to the pump per suggestion

3rd: forgot 2” couplings, got a pair of those

4th: return 1-1/2” unions, buy a 2” union

5th: new glue (and primer cuz why not)
 
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Step one complete. The exhaust side of the pump is reglued. It only really dropped about a half inch or so, so I just cut apart the existing pipe and added a coupler to extend it a bit.

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