Replumbing pad with new VSP and sand filter

bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
I am looking for help and ideas on how to do this plumbing. The previous owners had a handyman or someone do it and have always wanted to redo it but pump finally died and going to redo it.

Adding pentair 011028 VSFP and pentair tr100. This filter is about 8” bigger than existing so may turn it some so multiport valve is towards heater more.

New pump with 2 unions
Heater has unions
Filter has unions on mpv
Booster pump to be removed.
Have 3 returns but 2 pipes, assume 1 pipe runs 2 and the one tied to booster runs one. Will tee these together after swg if that is correct?

Backwash hose goes underground with all my gutters

Any advice? Anything i should do i am not thinking of? Kind of a cramped space so any additional layout advice?

Unsure how to get swg from heater over new pump to returns without going all the way around the heater like it is now....

I would appreciate any and all advice!

 

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jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
1,352
Morris Cnty NJ
Not much you can do without digging underground to change where the stubs come up. I would have went with a cartridge filter easier to plumb in and out for tight spaces. What's coming I to the PVC is that poly pipe underground? Hard to see in pics. Loose the booster and it will open up a little. The pump is at a horrible angle what were they thinking?
 

bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
I am open to moving the stubs and yes they are black poly.

The pump is what is throwing me off.. since it is in the Dang middle it makes everything a pain in the Rear. THinking of extending the pad 18" on bottom of pump/filter in pic..

I am scrambling now because pump is down. May just buy replacement motor for $150 to get me til next season.

Currently when I backwash sand goes right back into pool from booster jet pump. I am unsure if that is plumbing issue or failed multiport.
 

cfherrman

TFP Guide
May 10, 2017
2,385
Hays, Kansas
Take your time, use bleach and a brush, or buy a sump pump and throw it in the pool to move water around.

You have 3 suction lines correct?

If you turn around the 3 way valve that goes to the pump so the exit is towards the right instead of left, 90 or street El straight down, the street El straight with the world probably headed up in the pic and then install your new pump where the booster is now. Put the filter where the heater is and the heater where the filter is, then the return looks like it's by the suction 3 ways?

That might be a start, it's kinda hard to see the whole setup
 

Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
1,108
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
Are you handy DIY type. You dont have unions on the mpv, maybe one and its far away from the valve. I see different size pipes. If i were you i would do it all over again. Its just PVC/measuring/cutting/gluing. It will give you the opportunity to make it look great. I could draw some line to help you, but take a picture a little further away, not too much so we can see the big picture of the pad.
 

bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
I would appreciate that. I do plan on doing the work. I have done quite a few pvc projects so I am familiar with the doing but not the designing. I will get some more pictures and post tonight.
 
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jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
1,352
Morris Cnty NJ
Remember its tricky to connect poly. You need double clamps opposing eachother when locking on the barb. Hard to find glue x barb fittings may have to order online or use threaded to threaded x glue to go back to PVC. Unless you open that up and start with proper stub ups it will never be that clean neat pd you are after. The multisport ikely isn't closing all the way if you have sand blowing in
 

bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
got some more pictures. I am going to widen the pad on the left side about 1'. width currently is 5' and 4'3" to stubs

ignore the mess, had massive storm that blew fences down.
 

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bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
That's not a bad idea about switching heater. I hadn't thought of that since gas line does come in more to left anyways.

I am not familiar with the poly to pvc connects but have a plumber friend and he said it has to be barb. I will have to do more research on that connection.
What do you mean by clean up and proper stub? I will dig some of it up but would rather the connection be above ground than under
 

cfherrman

TFP Guide
May 10, 2017
2,385
Hays, Kansas
Just dig out your poly lines, there should be enough there that you can straighten them out and refill the dirt with straightened stubs.

Put the put where the booster is, filter where the heater is, heater where the filter is.

Should look simple and clean
 

Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
1,108
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
Have 3 returns but 2 pipes, assume 1 pipe runs 2 and the one tied to booster runs one. Will tee these together after swg if that is correct?
It seam you have 3 suction side pipes that could be(skimmer,2 main drains)I drew them up as 1.2.3(name them accordingly to what they are. You only have 1 return pipe which is the one connected to the SWG. The booster pipe can be converted to a return pipe, just add a 3 way valve, it will help with water movement.

There are several "if's" in the drawing and are related to size of the equipment, if you already bought the filter then you can adjust accordingly, if not then try to buy one that fits.

IMG_3199.JPG
 
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bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
This is awesome, thank you so much, I like that clean simple layout. I made a quick little picture with labels on it for understanding of piping. I was thinking of using a Tee or a wye to tie the returns all together.

Also do the MPV have union connections ?
 

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wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
492
Spring Valley, NY
It seam you have 3 suction side pipes that could be(skimmer,2 main drains)I drew them up as 1.2.3(name them accordingly to what they are. You only have 1 return pipe which is the one connected to the SWG. The booster pipe can be converted to a return pipe, just add a 3 way valve, it will help with water movement.

There are several "if's" in the drawing and are related to size of the equipment, if you already bought the filter then you can adjust accordingly, if not then try to buy one that fits.

View attachment 119388
It may make sense to put a bypass at the heater in case one day work needs to be performed so you can just cut the heater out of the loop easily.
 
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Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
1,108
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
You need a 3 way valve for the 2 skimmers or 2 single valves and a T, so you can regulate flow depending on predominant winds. You only have 1 return(in your drawing you say 2 but i only see one barb hose) the other one is booster and you can convert it to a return. You can tie those 2 with a T or a 3 way valve. Yes, the best thing is to have unions on all equipment on every input/output.
+1 on the bypass.
 
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bhubb

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2016
75
KS
Thanks for the input, I will look up on the bypass and yes I have 2 return pipes. the booster pump was run to what is a jet now. These will be wye's. I don't see a purpose on putting a valve on the return.. unless I would come across needing it? (pipe after the SWTn runs 2 and the booster runs 1 other return)