Replastered in April......test results from the past 3 months..what are my concerns?

[ajw22]

See the bleach says “Fabric Protection”? It is not pure bleach. It has additives that should not go into a pool.

If you can find 100% liquid chlorine then you should raise your FC to at least 10 ppm.

 

[4x4tx]

Yeah i dont think Im going to be able to find that today as too many things going on (wifes 40th bd)...so to get me by since I am going to have to drain water anyway for the cya should I just throw in a scoop of shock to boost me up? if not what is my best option at this point.

 

[ajw22]

Each 8 oz trichlor tablet will raise your FC by 3.4 and CYA by 2.1. So you need 4 tablets going.

1 gallon of 6% bleach will raise FC by 6.9. 10% liquid chlorine will raise FC 6.2.

 

[ajw22]

I have no idea what shock you have and what it contains

 

[4x4tx]

Thanks I’ve never seen that information posted before.

I may have time to make a quick run to Walmart if that is a better option..if not these are what i have..found one more bottle of bleach Clorox brand as well

 

[ajw22]

The effects of adding chemicals comes from PoolMath

Your shock is cal hypo. 8 oz will raise FC by 2.7 and CH by 1.9.

Liquid chlorine is the best. Using the shock is better than letting the pool sit with low FC.

 

[4x4tx]

Ok back from vacation. Just drained all of my spay and a foot out of my pool.

Took sample before and apparently I put in enough chlorine before I left.

Test results are:
19 FC CC 0
430 CH
90 CYA
TA 80
PH 7.5

I bought a taylor speedstir so feel better about my results.

I am starting to freak out about my pool walls scaling or pitting or whatever this is called..while draining you can clearly see smooth spots or streaks. I took some video on youtube and will post soon...My concern is...is this a bad plaster job or a result of my chemistry?

Videos here:

Thoughts?

 

[ajw22]

Key to your water chemistry is calculating your CSI with PoolMath.

 

[4x4tx]

Ok.....so thats what I am trying to understand how to do...this is what I am getting when I input my numbers....obviously this is going to change after my new pool water is in.....but with where I am at, is this causing plaster damage already? is what I am seeing nothing to worry about? do i need to make a call to plastering company?

Am I reading the results right in that if I make the changes I entered my CSI will be worse?

 

[ajw22]

CSI between 0 and -0.3 is ok. Both those numbers are good.

 

[4x4tx]

Adjusted for temp and plugged in at the bottom plaster, troublefree etc...im guessing my pool water is around 90, since i am not running the pump my jandy is not giving me a reading...but its hot....do you use a floating thermometer?
now getting a .02 current +.01 Goal reading on CSI.

I see its telling me to drain 56% of my water in the comments and Im confused about the the other pic I posted....along with the 56% comment, what does the shock and mustard algae shock comments mean? How do I know when I need to "slam" obviously in this case with my FC so highI know I dont but trying to understand the commentary there.

No comments on the plaster, I see you had yours redone in 17...our pools were about the same age when built (00)?

 

[4x4tx]

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[ajw22]

Adjusted for temp and plugged in at the bottom plaster, troublefree etc...im guessing my pool water is around 90, since i am not running the pump my jandy is not giving me a reading...but its hot....do you use a floating thermometer?

My Aqualink RS system gives me pool water temperature. I happen to have a floating thermometer but have not needed to toss it in the pool.

TFTestkits.net

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tftestkits.net

now getting a .02 current +.01 Goal reading on CSI.

Lower your TA to 60 or 70 and your CSI will become negative. Or you can test your salt and add 1000 ppm to 2000 ppm of salt to lower your CSI.

I see its telling me to drain 56% of my water in the comments and Im confused about the the other pic I posted....along with the 56% comment, what does the shock and mustard algae shock comments mean?

To go from CYA 90 to CYA 40 you would need to drain 56% of your water.

Shock and mustard algae FC levels are given to you for reference in case you need them.

How do I know when I need to "slam" obviously in this case with my FC so highI know I dont but trying to understand the commentary there.

You need the SLAM Process if your water is cloudy due to algae or you fail the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

No comments on the plaster, I see you had yours redone in 17...our pools were about the same age when built (00)?

What is your question about plaster?

Have you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry?

 

[4x4tx]

Answers in your quotes below.
New test results tonight after water drain and running pump all night. Based on pool school results, which of these should I do first and overall in what order.
FC 5.5 CC .05
TA 100
CH 370
CYA 50

My Aqualink RS system gives me pool water temperature. I happen to have a floating thermometer but have not needed to toss it in the pool.

TFTestkits.net

<meta name=google-site-verification content=AyvM6cSnKb2OYzhrqFW-2RXf8opLhr1cWK8ZCwnUVN4 />

tftestkits.net

Turned on my pump and it says 92 degrees for the pool water. Updated pool math.



Lower your TA to 60 or 70 and your CSI will become negative. Or you can test your salt and add 1000 ppm to 2000 ppm of salt to lower your CSI.

So dont use baking soda? Use acid to lower PH and then turn up pool jets to aerate correct? First I have heard of adding salt to a pool...if this is a good option I am not opposed to it.


To go from CYA 90 to CYA 40 you would need to drain 56% of your water.

Restested tonight and my CYA was 50. Maybe I didnt go enough yesterday on my test. Today I went until I could see no hint of dark circle.

Shock and mustard algae FC levels are given to you for reference in case you need them.



You need the SLAM Process if your water is cloudy due to algae or you fail the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test



What is your question about plaster?

My question about plaster was do you or anyone see anything that would suggest my plaster is being damaged or that I got a bad plaster job? or are these discolorations normal? They dont seem normal and have gotten worse IMHO.

Have you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry?

Yes and rereading over and over to sink in. Thank you for the help so far.

 

[ajw22]

So dont use baking soda? Use acid to lower PH and then turn up pool jets to aerate correct? First I have heard of adding salt to a pool...if this is a good option I am not opposed to it.

Let pH rise to 8 through aeration then lower to 7.2. Repeat until you get to desired TA. Read

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Baking soda raises TA.

What is the pH and TA of your fill water?

Some folks add salt to pool because they like the feel. Get the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test if you want to do that.

Your plaster looks fine to me in the videos. Just have normal weathering.

 

[4x4tx]

Let pH rise to 8 through aeration then lower to 7.2. Repeat until you get to desired TA. Read

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Baking soda raises TA.

What is the pH and TA of your fill water?

Some folks add salt to pool because they like the feel. Get the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test if you want to do that.

Your plaster looks fine to me in the videos. Just have normal weathering.

Ok got it on the TA.....

PH is 7.4 on the fill water..I need to test the TA. Had not heard that about the salt.

Really for a 3-4 month plaster it should have that many streaks and discolorations? I thought where the plaster feels smooth vs the normal texture meant it was mottling or scaling..I really thought there might be some slight color streaks but not obvious dark spots and water drip looking areas beneath the jets and pool lights.

 

[ajw22]

Scaling is not going to happen in 3 months unless the pH was way high the entire time. The smoothness or lack of is the way the plaster was applied. Mottling is fairly normal in plaster jobs. Water drip marks your builder should be able to get out with an acid wash.

 

[4x4tx]

Scaling is not going to happen in 3 months unless the pH was way high the entire time. The smoothness or lack of is the way the plaster was applied. Mottling is fairly normal in plaster jobs. Water drip marks your builder should be able to get out with an acid wash.

Well thats what I wanted to know, I dont want the plaster company to say its because of my chemicals..although they have been off here or there nothing that I have done would have caused plaster issues.

My concern is the smooth areas are definitely increasing, at first the entire pool was rough feeling and looked good...now there seems to be some areas that are changing texture and along with the discoloration. For example at the 9 second mark of that second video i posted, that irregular shape on the floor of my pool just showed in in the last month....what caused that and what is it? The are various areas that have that same issues.

In the last video at the 32nd mark, you can see the smooth areas exposed under the skimmer, those were not there either...maybe I am not using the right term but my fear was it was pitting or mottling.......before the pool was replastered I had bad pitting so it scares me to see something similar already after spending a fortune to remodel this pool.

As for chemicals tonight, I added the 61oz of liquid bleach to bump my FC back up. Tonights test was the first test I had a positive CC level at +.5 so assuming this will correct that. I adjusted returns to blow up like i had originally when my PH was always high so hopefully my TA goes down quickly. I will test fill water tomorrow.

i went to Walmart tonight and bought 6 gal of liquid chlorine for 3.64 EA...I also went to the home bleach section but did not feel confident that any of what I saw was pool safe.

 

[ajw22]

CC of 0.5 is nothing to worry about. That shows normal sanitation going on.

I will look at your vids more when i have time.

 

[4x4tx]

CC of 0.5 is nothing to worry about. That shows normal sanitation going on.

I will look at your vids more when i have time.

Thanks...when you have time stop at those marks i mentioned or pause it every so often.

Tonights test results ..not much change

FC 5.5 even after adding 61 oz of liquid bleach
CC .5
TA 90
CH 340
CYA 50
PH 7.8

i will keep up with the aeration until I get to 8.0 before dropping in some acid hopefully tomorrow.

I am going to add another 60 oz of liquid chlorine tonight as well.

TA of the fill water was 110...does that sound high for city water?