- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
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- 15000
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- Vinyl
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- CircuPool SJ-40
Replacing water...confuzzled!
- Thread starter Kalico
- Start date
Ok, I might be a little off base in continuing this thread here, since I am not longer confuzzled about replacing water 
(if someone can share the rules about starting a new thread, that would be awesome...one of my posts was moved back to this thread, so I'm still here ;-) ).
But.....since y'all have been involved with me here since the start, I wanted to provide a pictoral update! The change is soooo dramatic - not just from green to blue, but the shades of blue that have come up since the refill. Every day it looks more amazing. Yesterday it was still pretty cloudy in the deep end, but today I can see the drain, clear as a bell. It even reflects the clouds better!
Saturday, while draining. Yuck.
Sunday, while refilling. Still lots of green in the deep end.
Monday. Improving, but the deep end is cloudy.
Tuesday. WOW!
Obviously, this isn't all just the result of a SLAM. If I had not drained first, I'm sure I'd still be somewhere in the shades of lighter green today. But the SLAM is helping even the mostly-fresh water transform its color day by day. You can really see the difference in the deep end where the color is more intense in every case.
Gorgeous color aside, here are this morning's numbers:
FC = 13.5
CYA = 15
That CYA level is 24 hours after about 2.5# of dry CYA. I've added the other 2.5# this morning (I wanted to take it slow and make sure I didn't add too much, considering what I've gone through to get it down!). I'll check it later today and be sure it's on track to get to 30 but not more than that.
Tomorrow, I should have a better idea of how the FC is holding with the CYA in the appropriate range. For now, it seems pretty willing to drop to 7 over the course of the day, but a gallon brings it up to 13-14. So somewhere in there I'll find the sweet spot.
And pretty soon I'll just be hoping for more hot days to bring the temp up!
(if someone can share the rules about starting a new thread, that would be awesome...one of my posts was moved back to this thread, so I'm still here ;-) ).But.....since y'all have been involved with me here since the start, I wanted to provide a pictoral update! The change is soooo dramatic - not just from green to blue, but the shades of blue that have come up since the refill. Every day it looks more amazing. Yesterday it was still pretty cloudy in the deep end, but today I can see the drain, clear as a bell. It even reflects the clouds better!
Saturday, while draining. Yuck.
Sunday, while refilling. Still lots of green in the deep end.
Monday. Improving, but the deep end is cloudy.
Tuesday. WOW!
Obviously, this isn't all just the result of a SLAM. If I had not drained first, I'm sure I'd still be somewhere in the shades of lighter green today. But the SLAM is helping even the mostly-fresh water transform its color day by day. You can really see the difference in the deep end where the color is more intense in every case.
Gorgeous color aside, here are this morning's numbers:
FC = 13.5
CYA = 15
That CYA level is 24 hours after about 2.5# of dry CYA. I've added the other 2.5# this morning (I wanted to take it slow and make sure I didn't add too much, considering what I've gone through to get it down!). I'll check it later today and be sure it's on track to get to 30 but not more than that.
Tomorrow, I should have a better idea of how the FC is holding with the CYA in the appropriate range. For now, it seems pretty willing to drop to 7 over the course of the day, but a gallon brings it up to 13-14. So somewhere in there I'll find the sweet spot.
And pretty soon I'll just be hoping for more hot days to bring the temp up!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Keep everything related to this issue in one thread. Your wonderful result, is perfect. And this thread is where it should be posted.
DeanP66
0
How is San Martin's weather? If it's like most of California, you'll find a CYA of 30 will be too low and you'll be approaching your bare minimum for you FC daily. I would shoot for 40 or even 50. Your target FC is kept a little higher, but it burns off much more slowly so you're not constantly under the gun to stay above your bare minimum.
Keep in mind, the weather hasn't really even got very hot yet this year. Once you start seeing 90's consistently, you will lose FC even faster.
Keep in mind, the weather hasn't really even got very hot yet this year. Once you start seeing 90's consistently, you will lose FC even faster.
Aha....the light is slowly dawning. Thanks @DeanP66. Yes, it's going to get quite hot here in the summer. We do get a reasonable amount of shade on the pool because of all the trees, but you're totally right....we're not even close to "normal" temps yet. I am CYA-shy right now because of how bad things got when it was high. I will edge it up slowly to the regular target.
Right now, it's still below 30, as far as my test kit tells me. The mix isn't cloudy enough to fully obscure the black dot...it's maybe 50-75% obscured with the tube filled. I had my dry CYA in a pillowcase in the skimmer and it dissolved a lot faster than I expected after reading others' experiences. Put it in about 10 this morning and it was all gone by 4 pm, no squishing needed. Do I need to wait 24-48 hours for the CYA to fully register on the test kit? I read that somewhere, but since mine dissolved so quickly I am thinking it must be all mixed in by now.
If <30 is all I'm going to get out of a 5# bag, I'll have to grab some more.
Right now, it's still below 30, as far as my test kit tells me. The mix isn't cloudy enough to fully obscure the black dot...it's maybe 50-75% obscured with the tube filled. I had my dry CYA in a pillowcase in the skimmer and it dissolved a lot faster than I expected after reading others' experiences. Put it in about 10 this morning and it was all gone by 4 pm, no squishing needed. Do I need to wait 24-48 hours for the CYA to fully register on the test kit? I read that somewhere, but since mine dissolved so quickly I am thinking it must be all mixed in by now.
If <30 is all I'm going to get out of a 5# bag, I'll have to grab some more.
clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
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My personal experience with cya is once I dissolve the socks it will read the following day
Ok!
1) I am a little concerned that FC levels are high but there's still that shadow of algae, so I assume that means I am not "officially" done SLAMing?
2) Since brushing stirs it up, would it help to vacuum before brushing?
3) I have been using just the vinyl brush for now, because I didn't want to disturb the black algae too much (based on earlier advice to SLAM first, then deal with the BA). Should I switch to the steel brush now, and start exposing that black plague to chlorine, or should I wait until the "puffy dust" is completely gone and I can pass an OTCL test (officially totally done with SLAM)?
4) On another front....I've read that pH is expected to be off during SLAM, but what about TA and CH? I got some cra-cra color changes this morning and wasn't sure if it was just me blowing it, or a misunderstanding of the test, or something about the high FC levels right now interfering. I've never properly tested any of my chemicals under anything close to normal conditions, so I'm not sure what to expect. And I don't want to waste test solutions on water that's never going to make sense anyway, if that's the case.
Thanks in advance!
- I've got my CYA to 30 (and I know that could be a little higher, esp for hot weather, but we're in the 70s this week)
- My FC only went from 13.5 yesterday afternoon to 11.5 this morning. That was not an official OTCL test, but it tells me things are more stable than they were at first before the CYA was up to snuff.
- CC is 0.
- The water looks amazing, but I can still see a light shadow of dark gray or green on the bottom of the pool and the steps, which puffs up when I brush.
1) I am a little concerned that FC levels are high but there's still that shadow of algae, so I assume that means I am not "officially" done SLAMing?
2) Since brushing stirs it up, would it help to vacuum before brushing?
3) I have been using just the vinyl brush for now, because I didn't want to disturb the black algae too much (based on earlier advice to SLAM first, then deal with the BA). Should I switch to the steel brush now, and start exposing that black plague to chlorine, or should I wait until the "puffy dust" is completely gone and I can pass an OTCL test (officially totally done with SLAM)?
4) On another front....I've read that pH is expected to be off during SLAM, but what about TA and CH? I got some cra-cra color changes this morning and wasn't sure if it was just me blowing it, or a misunderstanding of the test, or something about the high FC levels right now interfering. I've never properly tested any of my chemicals under anything close to normal conditions, so I'm not sure what to expect. And I don't want to waste test solutions on water that's never going to make sense anyway, if that's the case.
Thanks in advance!
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
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1) You SLAM levels of FC are fine. Leave them there. The more you keep the pool at SLAM level the faster things will go.
2) Sure, you can vacuum then brush
3) No start attacking that black algae now. You can do both at the same time. Use that SLAM water to hit the exposed algae.
4) For now all you care about is FC and CYA. We will deal with other levels after. If you think your CYA is more than 30 then use 40 and your SLAM level is 16. Get you FC to SLAM level and keep it there. Basically step 1
2) Sure, you can vacuum then brush
3) No start attacking that black algae now. You can do both at the same time. Use that SLAM water to hit the exposed algae.
4) For now all you care about is FC and CYA. We will deal with other levels after. If you think your CYA is more than 30 then use 40 and your SLAM level is 16. Get you FC to SLAM level and keep it there. Basically step 1
Ah...thanks @Katodude - I had remembered wrong. 30=12 (not 10). Mine is right at 30. It's been pretty easy to keep FC around 11-13, so I think I'm doing pretty good there. And it sounds like I'm good to start brushing that black crud.
Onward and upward!
Onward and upward!
Hi all, things are going along "swimmingly"! The water is gorgeous and the black algae is at least 50% better. It was THICK so it's taking a lot of time and muscle power, but I have a few spots where I can see the actual pool color underneath it! The rest is mostly gray-green now, but there are a few spots that are stubbornly black and need more attention.
Based on what I'm reading here, I see that I don't have to stay at SLAM levels of FC during the entire black algae removal process. But I am curious if I can I expect an OCLT (<< fixed! lol) test to give accurate results about the "end of the SLAM" for the rest of the water? Or will it continue to be using up extra chlorine even at night while I work through the BA?
I am ultimately trying to determine if I have to keep running my filter 24/7 at this point, or if I can let it have a break....and start using the bottom feeder again (we just got a new one, and it says not to use it during shock treatment....).
Based on what I'm reading here, I see that I don't have to stay at SLAM levels of FC during the entire black algae removal process. But I am curious if I can I expect an OCLT (<< fixed! lol) test to give accurate results about the "end of the SLAM" for the rest of the water? Or will it continue to be using up extra chlorine even at night while I work through the BA?
I am ultimately trying to determine if I have to keep running my filter 24/7 at this point, or if I can let it have a break....and start using the bottom feeder again (we just got a new one, and it says not to use it during shock treatment....).
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your water should pass the OCLT even with black algae.
Then follow the Black Algae protocol Black Algae - Trouble Free Pool
What is a bottom feeder?
Then follow the Black Algae protocol Black Algae - Trouble Free Pool
What is a bottom feeder?
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
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Do you have a wire brush for the BA? It will make it easier.
Also I like to hit it with a high dose of LC right after I brush. Either by dumping the LC down the side where the BA is, or get a pump sprayer and use it to spray the BA directly. But I feel like I have already said this.
Also I like to hit it with a high dose of LC right after I brush. Either by dumping the LC down the side where the BA is, or get a pump sprayer and use it to spray the BA directly. But I feel like I have already said this.
Haha, sorry I meant to correct "bottom feeder" before hitting send. I am referring to my pool cleaner, which is the type that crawls along the bottom of the pool and sucks up crud into a bag (Polaris). We used to have the kind that drives around on the top of the water with a float behind it and uses hoses to swish the floor. I don't know all the proper names of them, just the silly names we made up as kids.
Thanks @mknauss - I will do the OCLT tonight and see how it goes!
And yes, @Katodude - I am working on that BA with a wire brush and focusing the chlorine in that area. You did mention the pump sprayer, but I don't have one yet. I am a little timid about messing with chlorine other than pouring it into the pool.
Thanks @mknauss - I will do the OCLT tonight and see how it goes!
And yes, @Katodude - I am working on that BA with a wire brush and focusing the chlorine in that area. You did mention the pump sprayer, but I don't have one yet. I am a little timid about messing with chlorine other than pouring it into the pool.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Up to you, but the SLAM level FC is not an issue with pool equipment.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,617
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I get it, but you will get more comfortable in time. Wear old clothes, and dont drink it.
The key to BA is remove outer protective layer and expose it to higher level of FC. If you have some on one wall, just pour some down that wall after you brush.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
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- Vinyl
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- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Yep, I’ve got several sets of scrubs that have white specks from the knees down because I used to test the water and add chlorine as soon as I got home from the hospital in the mornings. Now I’ve learned to change clothes first.
Well, folks, IT IS DONE!!! 
We passed the OCLT test this morning with a 0.5 loss. I actually think it would have passed a few days ago, but I was working so hard on keeping the FC elevated while scrubbing the BA that I didn't really think about it.
The filter never got above 16 PSI, but the new Polaris picked up a TON of sandy crud and bits of BA off the bottom - almost filled the net in the first 5 hours of operation. Apparently, all that junk has not been getting sucked into the filter when I brush (which makes me wonder about the health of the bottom drain...).
Now I am ready to tackle the next projects:
Should I start a new thread, or just keep this one going?
We passed the OCLT test this morning with a 0.5 loss. I actually think it would have passed a few days ago, but I was working so hard on keeping the FC elevated while scrubbing the BA that I didn't really think about it.
The filter never got above 16 PSI, but the new Polaris picked up a TON of sandy crud and bits of BA off the bottom - almost filled the net in the first 5 hours of operation. Apparently, all that junk has not been getting sucked into the filter when I brush (which makes me wonder about the health of the bottom drain...).
Now I am ready to tackle the next projects:
- Continue to work on the BA until it's all gone or my arms fall off. Whichever comes first.
- TRY to find the pebbletec under the calcium layer that is coating the entire pool.
- Learn to balance the chemicals the TFP way.
Should I start a new thread, or just keep this one going?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,475
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
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- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Keep this one going.
BA is just keeping an elevated FC level for the duration. Have you read the BA article?
Calcium scale reduction is keeping the CSI in the -0.6 to -0.3 range. See Poolmath for that.
You should be able to do those simultaneously.
BA is just keeping an elevated FC level for the duration. Have you read the BA article?
Calcium scale reduction is keeping the CSI in the -0.6 to -0.3 range. See Poolmath for that.
You should be able to do those simultaneously.
Yes, I've read the article. Right now I have FC at around 9 (CYA 30 - to save $ on LC for now) and plan on keeping it about there while I continue to work on the BA.
CSI is currently calculated at -0.6 according to PoolMath, but I haven't been monitoring pH or TA since I started the SLAM so I guess I need to gather that data for a more accurate calculation.
I thought I read that you also need to keep pH low to get rid of calcium scale? Or is low pH just what keeps CSI low? I suppose those are both the same question in a way, but I get the impression I have more control over pH and by keeping it low, my CSI will also stay on the low end. Is that right?
CSI is currently calculated at -0.6 according to PoolMath, but I haven't been monitoring pH or TA since I started the SLAM so I guess I need to gather that data for a more accurate calculation.
I thought I read that you also need to keep pH low to get rid of calcium scale? Or is low pH just what keeps CSI low? I suppose those are both the same question in a way, but I get the impression I have more control over pH and by keeping it low, my CSI will also stay on the low end. Is that right?