Replacing TCELL15 with IC40 - plumbing required?

[Burrito Bandito]

I thought I had seen a dummy cell pipe that was compatible with both Hayward and Pentair salt cells ( now I can’t find it). This led me to believe that they used the same unions, and were the same length. I just did a test fit of the Pentair union nut on an old TCELL15…and found out they are not the same…

If I have to replumb, it’s going to be a PITA, because one side of the pipe the salt cell plugs into is nothing but couplings, butted up against each other, all the way to the ground.

I’ve used split nuts before… but I’m not sure if they make one with a thread pitch that is compatible with IC40. I don’t want to mess up the threads of my nice new salt cell, just to make the split nut fit. I saw some posts on here of people using split nut on the IC40, but seems like it was not a perfect fit. I have one split nut on my TCELL, and it works just like a regular union nut. I’ve never had to mess with the screws after assembling the nut onto the pipe. It threads on and off easily when I remove the cell for cleaning.

I’m also concerned about the oring of the original TCELL union mating up with the IC40, not to mention, the IC40 seems to be a slightly different length than a TCELL (1/32” - 1/6th”, maybe).

Anyone have experience converting TCELL to IC, or know exactly which split nut will fit IC?

Thanks,Jason

 

[proavia]

Post a few pics of your plumbing.
Look into a socket saver or plastic pipe fitting reamer.

 

[Burrito Bandito]

Thanks for the tip. I did not know about the socket saver / pipe reamer. I would prefer to go with the split nuts if possible, but if they won’t work, good to know I can bore out one of the unions.

 

[Burrito Bandito]

It seems the plumbing needs to be redone anyway. According to this post, the IC needs to be installed with upflow:

Help please! Intellichlor cell vertical orientation

Sorry, I tried to search but don't seems to be able to find an answer, and pentair lvl1 support wasn't much of a help neither. Due to the limited space between heater and return, i am sure i will need to re-plumb vertically to extend the distance and will have a "n" shape somewhere to get a 12"...

www.troublefreepool.com

There are no warnings or guidance in the manual stating that it needs to be upflow.

If installed with upflow at the outlet of the filter, with the prescribed distance from the elbow, my “n” will be as tall or taller than the filter. To replace the pipe on the TCELL side of the pipe, I’ll have to use a socket saver on the first union after the currently installed cell. Alternately, as a temporary solution, I could put a cell blank in place of the TCELL.

 

[mknauss]

There are no warnings or guidance in the manual stating that it needs to be upflow.

Page 4 of my manual. Picture.
It is so if the flow switch fails, it will not fail closed and let the SWCG operate without water flow.

 

[Burrito Bandito]

Page 4 of my manual. Picture.
It is so if the flow switch fails, it will not fail closed and let the SWCG operate without water flow.

Understood. But the picture is just a “typical” installation. Nowhere is there a warning to install right side up. Seems like a huge liability for Pentair, omitting this safety warning from their manual.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

In the photo, how much free pipe do you have between the fittings in yellow? If it's 1.25" you could cut there and use a coupler or other fitting.

In red, your valve will accept the next larger size coupling or fitting. The valves are made to accommodate two sizes (i.e. 2" and 2.5" or 1.5" and 2"). You could use a reducer bushing to get back to existing plumbing size.

Maybe you can work to the left from there to give yourself enough room to mount on the upper horizontal.

If no room to the left, you could cut the pipe exiting the filter and angle to the right at a 45, following the incoming pipe. That would give you enough room to mount the SWG upward on the 45.

Just a couple of options to consider...

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Here's an example connection options for the valve (Jandy):

 

[Burrito Bandito]

In the photo, how much free pipe do you have between the fittings in yellow? If it's 1.25" you could cut there and use a coupler or other fitting.

In red, your valve will accept the next larger size coupling or fitting. The valves are made to accommodate two sizes (i.e. 2" and 2.5" or 1.5" and 2"). You could use a reducer bushing to get back to existing plumbing size.

Maybe you can work to the left from there to give yourself enough room to mount on the upper horizontal.

If no room to the left, you could cut the pipe exiting the filter and angle to the right at a 45, following the incoming pipe. That would give you enough room to mount the SWG upward on the 45.

Just a couple of options to consider...

View attachment 403812

The yellow circled area is 1 1/32”, so i guess not quite enough to work with.

Good to have options! Not sure if I’m going to try the socket saver or the 2.5” coupling.