Replacing stabilized granular shock with a no-chlorine shock ?

[Swimcam]

After 24 years of using stabilized granular shock, I started having problems with maintaining proper amount of chlorine in pool. Chlorine gone within 2 days. Last season tried , liquid chlorine and Calcium Hypochlorite. I hated using both. Liquid was too cumbersome and calcium Hypochlorite left white dust on the bottom of the pool and also brought up the calcium hardness level. Last summer the CYA went to 149 at one point then I drained 10” of water out of pool and that is when I switched over to liquid chlorine and then calcium Hypochlorite . This season just opened the pool and drained 10” of water( about 1/3 ) out of pool and replaced it. The weather here in 50s and 60s. Pool had green algae when opened, Used Natural Chemistry “Algae Break 90”, and 5 # of stabilized granular chlorine —cleared pool within 24 hours. Also no nitrates in the water test done last year.
Question is ...to avoid getting the CYA to high and the calcium hardness to high , pool store recommending use of a No-chlorine shock and installing a chlorinator( those 3” chlorine pucks have stabilizer in them too). I currently use a floater in the pool for chlorine pucks. Before calling the store back does anyone have advice using this type of sanitation for a pool? I also was thinking maybe going to a salt water system here in the mid-Atlantic region may be another choice. Or, just go back to using the stabilized granular shock and end up draining water each summer again. I don’t want to use liquid chlorine or calcium Hypochlorite weekly.
My current readings as of Monday 4/27 : FC-4, CC-1.4, PH-7.4, Alk-96, CYA-56, phosphates-375, TDS-550, water crystal clear.
Thanks for any advice!

 

[tim5055]

First, welcome to TFP

I'm going to say that nothing you are recommending matches anything we teach. If those numbers are to be believed (I don't), your CYA is already way too high. The pucks are doing nothing more than add to the CYA.

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. Plus, the results of their "testing" is used to convince you that you need to buy things. Why do you think that testing is free?

The solution is to install a salt water chlorine generator. The pool store solution is just going to drive your CYA up and the thickness of your wallet down as you purchase MPS shock.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Silver_2000]

my advice - stop using powders and pucks that have CYA in them and use chlorine ... As long as you keep using stabilized anything your CYA will be so high you will have trouble getting free chlorine up enough to help with anything ...
A salt system will help a TON in managing your out of control CYA since you will have a source of chlorine with no CYA