I am in the middle of replacing the seal in my Hayward Power Flo 1.5 HP pump, with a kit purchased from INYO Pools. While seating the new ceramic half of the seal, I noticed that it did not bottom out on the flat surface at the base of the recess. It lacks about 1/8". I tried tapping on it and it didn't go down any farther. Is it possible that it seals on the sides of the rubber "cup" holding the ceramic disk? Or should it actually seat on the flat area in the bottom of the recess? If it needs to "bottom out," what is the best way to proceed? Thanks!
Replacing Seal in a Hayward SP1580 Pwer Flo PUMP
- Thread starter ghall6292
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,889
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,835
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I've had this same problem a couple of times. Even after thoroughly cleaning the seal plate recess there was about 1/8" of additional travel. I pressed the ceramic part of the seal plate into the seal plate recess using a clean rag and wooden dowel till the ceramic was flush with the seal plate. Then reassembled the spring portion of the seal. It always worked for me this way. Not sure why some have a small additional travel behind the ceramic and maybe the spring pushes it back in operation but this always worked.
Chris
Chris
Make sure that the old rubber part is removed.
Use some dish soap to make it easier to push the seal in all the way.
Use some dish soap to make it easier to push the seal in all the way.
Note that you don't want to use any permanent lubricant. You want something that washes away with water. They sell seal lube for this exact situation, but dish soap works ok.
Thanks, all. The old rubber part was completely removed and I cleaned the entire seal plate recess before installing the new seal. Dish soap sounds like it may be my salvation. I'm headed down to the basement now to attempt to finish the process.
By the way, the seal kit did come with some lube, which was definitely silicone. I did not use it, but just tried plain tap water instead. Since the kit came with a couple of new o-rings as well, I'll give the kit seller the benefit of the doubt, and assume the included lube was meant for the o-rings. But why package it in the bag containing the seal, and not the one containing the O-rings? Hmmm.
By the way, the seal kit did come with some lube, which was definitely silicone. I did not use it, but just tried plain tap water instead. Since the kit came with a couple of new o-rings as well, I'll give the kit seller the benefit of the doubt, and assume the included lube was meant for the o-rings. But why package it in the bag containing the seal, and not the one containing the O-rings? Hmmm.
The regular seals are junk. They fall apart fast. You should use a PS-3869, which is rated as Ozone/Salt service duty.
The PS-1906 is an even better seal, but it's expensive.
When considering the time and cost of replacing a seal, the cost of the seal is almost negligible if it can save you one replacement.
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Thanks to everyone for your help. I was able to locate the US Seal PS-3869 locally (at a plumbing supply store) and it will be here today. By the way, I did go ahead and try to seat the regular seal with soap and water. Easy Peasy! No lube required. Once I have the 3869 in hand, I'll knock out the standard seal and replace. Once again, TFP to the rescue!
Cool. Thanks for the update.
See if the supply place has seal installation lube for a good price and get some if they do. It's the best thing to use. If not, dish soap is fine.
See if the supply place has seal installation lube for a good price and get some if they do. It's the best thing to use. If not, dish soap is fine.