replacing control center/timer

[td3201]

Hello,

I'd like to potentially replace my T20004R1 (60 amp control center/timer) with something that has Wi-Fi capabilities. The current config has the following circuits:

• (dual 15a) - pump
• (15a) - heater
• (20a) - lights and outlets

I have found these but they obviously won't work as a drop in replacement for my load:

Amazon.com

a.co

Amazon.com

a.co

There are ways I can just bolt this on but hoping that a product exists that has it all in one box like what I have but has wifi and digital timer capabilities. Any ideas?

 

[BoHpool]

Here is an example of industrial grade wifi controlled relays. Definitely not drop in but much more flexible and better wifi connection than the Chinese knockoffs. WIFI Relay.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The IntelliConnect will work with your devices in conjunction with your existing load center. It's a good value if you don't plan on controlling valve actuators. It also provides RS-485 communication for IntelliFlo VS pumps if you plan to upgrade.

IntelliConnect® Pool Control System

The IntelliConnect® pool control and monitoring system from Pentair lets owners monitor and control their pool's functions conveniently and easily. Learn more.

www.pentair.com

 

[Bill1974]

Not off the shelf, but I made my own. I used an enclosure, weather proof covers, contactors, and controlled them with WiFi enabled light switches. The contactors take all the load the WiFi swithces just control the contactors. All is fed from a outdoor rate load panel. GFCI is on the breakers in the load panel. I have replaced the WiFi switches with Leviton one, the WEMO ones did not work that well, they would loose the WiFi to much, even though there is an outdoor access point 75 feet away in clean sight.

 

[BoHpool]

Not off the shelf, but I made my own. I used an enclosure, weather proof covers, contactors, and controlled them with WiFi enabled light switches. The contactors take all the load the WiFi swithces just control the contactors. All is fed from a outdoor rate load panel. GFCI is on the breakers in the load panel. I have replaced the WiFi switches with Leviton one, the WEMO ones did not work that well, they would loose the WiFi to much, even though there is an outdoor access point 75 feet away in clean sight.

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Nice. I like to see innovative solutions. I use Feit Electric WIFI controlled outlets, they are a little sensitive to weak WIFI signal the good thing is a have a scheduling feature. I just went and looked at the Leviton website and you have fixed one of my problems. Leviton WIFI outlet that has sunrise sunset control, perfect for our pool lights.

 

[Bill1974]

I recall when I started looking into creating this and was considering, zigbee, zwave, wifi and something else. Most Wifi (switches and receptacles) store the programing local in the deivce and don't rely on something in the cloud to tell them when to turn on an off.

I like using switches so it's easy to turn on manually or remotely. Setting programs and being able to adjust easy was important to me. I use this to control the chlorine dosing via a stenner pump. Need to adjust the chlorine level is just changing the run time.

You could also use Google home, Alexa, Apple home , etc to create schedules. want to turn on or off the pool light, pump, etc just yell at the nearest Nest display, Alexa or cell phone. Just name the devices so Alexa or google or siri don't get confused.

The contactors are cheap and can easily take the inrush and handle the starting and stopping the pool pumb much better than wifi switches or receptacles.

The hardest part was cutting the opening in the cover of the fiberglass enclosure.

 

[BoHpool]

Could I get your part numbers?

I was a synchronized clock manufacturer so I used many of the products you are referring to.

I wish I had kept my master clock parts, it was easy to program and had 8 relays with enough events to handle any pool.

I had a 40-ton press with dies so making the holes was not too bad if I could get the box on the press.

 

[td3201]

@Bill1974 - very smart solution.

1. What model of enclosure and contactors are you using?
2. This all looks like 120, do you have a separate breaker panel outside that I'm not seeing?

 

[Bill1974]

I think I used these contactors
Packard - DP301202 C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil Amazon.com

If you have a 250v pump, just make sure to use a contactor that is rated for 250 volts and enough amps on the load side and the coil side is 125 volts (I'm not sure if there are any 250 volt rated wifi switches). All my equipment is 125volts. Using stranded wire and having different colored wires helps make wiring easier.

Enclosure was picked up at Home Depot in think. It's an outdoor rated electrical enclosure. They are in the electrical aisles.

I do have a separate outdoor breaker sub panel. All the wires between were run in flexible water tight PVC conduit.

 

[td3201]

Thank you so much for the replies and information. My old pump was wired as 230. My new pump is a Pentair SuperFlo Single Speed. As you all likely know, it can be switched from 230/115. Here's the fork in my road. From what I understand, I have two options:

1. Wire it all as 230
2. Wire it all as 115

I have read a lot on the topic of 230/115. I can see where having the extra wattage can help with RPM on a variable speed pump but don't have that. Thinking the 115 route would simplify the equipment side of things. 115 wifi switches are common.

Thoughts?

​

 

[td3201]

Actually, hold the horses. Just found this:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Does exactly what I need. I can switch a 240v wirelessly with this.

 

[jgofnj]

Actually, hold the horses. Just found this:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Does exactly what I need. I can switch a 240v wirelessly with this.

Unless I am missing something from a previous post, wondering if this meets your needs but a lot cheaper.

Amazon.com

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Actually, hold the horses. Just found this:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Does exactly what I need. I can switch a 240v wirelessly with this.

After you purchase the hub, you're into it for over $325 and you won't be able to control all three devices. Might as well buy the Pentair and IntelliConnect which will control multiple devices. I also like the system Bill put together.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Unless I am missing something from a previous post, wondering if this meets your needs but a lot cheaper.

Amazon.com

This device is rated for a 1 hp motor at 120 volts or a 2 hp motor at 240 volts.

 

[Bill1974]

$53 for the box from Amazon isn't that bad.

I made mine to control the pool pump, Stenner pump and pool light, plus I have a spare outlet too.

Cost: (based on memory): ~$255
Enclosure - $50
Contactors - 3 x $12 + $36
Wifi Switches - 3 x $30 = $90
Outlets - 3 x $3 = $9
Weather Proof covers - $70
Wire - already had it.

Time to make: 3-4 hours

If anything fails everything is easy to replace and readily available and inexpensive.

It's going on 4 years old and all I have done it switched Wifi switches since the original ones (Wemo) would loose the wifi and not get scheduling updates all the time. The Leviton (Wifi) ones have worked fine w/o issue for the past 2 years. I was going to Lutron Caseta, as i have a bunch of these in the house and they have been flawless for almost 10 years, but I don't think they would have the range I needed (~80 - 100 ft depending on where the hub would be).