Replace old pump with IntelliFlo3

apono

Gold Supporter
Nov 1, 2023
23
Boca Raton FL
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Hi,
My current pump started working very loud (~75dBA from 3ft) and I think I need to replace (and upgrade) it to something less noisy and more efficient. Could you please help me with questions:
- where is the optimal place to buy it (I'm in SE Florida)?
- will I need to do some plumbing (I have some old pentair pump)?
- is the "IntelliFlo3 VSF 3HP with Touchscreen - 011077" optimal choice? I have mechanical timer and plan to connect SWG to the new IntelliFlo3.
- what would you suggest based on the photos of my current pipelines?
Thank you!
 

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You want IntelliFlo3 VSF 3HP with Relay Board & Touchscreen - 011078.

Then connect your RJ SWG through the IO Board relay and you will not need the mechanical timer. The pump control panel will keep the pump run time and SWG runtime in synch.

The Intelliflo3 dimensions are slightly different then your Superflo pump. And your Superflo pump is sitting on blocks. You will need to make some PVC adjustments to connect the Intelloflo3 pump.
 
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You want IntelliFlo3 VSF 3HP with Relay Board & Touchscreen - 011078.

Then connect your RJ SWG through the IO Board relay and you will not need the mechanical timer. The pump control panel will keep the pump run time and SWG runtime in synch.

The Intelliflo3 dimensions are slightly different then your Superflo pump. And your Superflo pump is sitting on blocks. You will need to make some PVC adjustments to connect the Intelloflo3 pump.
Thank you!
I installed SWG by myself, plumbing is not a problem. So the relay board is where external devices connected (like SWG) to pump? Not directly to pump?
Can you suggest where to buy it?
 
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That is a good price. The 078 is available online and in stock at Poolcleaningparts.com for $1950 + tax, free shipping, in case anyone else is looking.
 
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Ended up buying the pump with installation and 3 years warranty for everything for $2,550 (tax included). Please take a look at photos, I see few problems.
1. 1 connection is leaking - they said they will fix it.
2. They narrowed the suction pipe too much. While they were installing I asked if it's okay to narrow the pipe that much and the answer was - "we are doing this for living, no worries". Now I'm not sure, from the manual: "Suction line diameter should be the same or larger than the return line diameter".
3. Air under the lid. With previous pump it was always just water, now there is always some air. I think it is a result of narrowed suction pipe (#2).
4. They used plier to tight the connectors but it's "hand tight only".

Am I right about # 2 and #3?
 

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I understand your disappointment with the inlet pipe size but I think your system will perform fine. Most of the time the pump will run 1400 to 1600 rpm to generate CL. You will probably boost it for awhile to skim, but you will still be able to get reasonable flow. Your spa jets should be OK too. If you had a waterfall or another feature that required near capacity flow from the pump, then you may need to change the inlet.

The pump basket lid is likely to have some good sized air pockets. If you have lots of small to medium bubbles and need to purge your filter constantly, then you have an inlet air leak. My experience is they are often the diverter valve shaft seals. I have had success troubleshooting inlet leaks at valve shafts by packing Magic Lube (red label) around the shaft. If you have priming difficulties its really important to find and fix the leak.
 
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I got an IF3 installed recently and ordered the relay board online. It was easy to install and add my booster pump. SWG is next and will be easier.
Anyways, I have air in the top of my pump also, compared to my old Jandy that didn't. But the Pentair is a lot bigger. No air in the lines though or filter pressure relesse. So I don't believe it's an issue.
 
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Thank you all for replies!
I understand your disappointment with the inlet pipe size but I think your system will perform fine. Most of the time the pump will run 1400 to 1600 rpm to generate CL. You will probably boost it for awhile to skim, but you will still be able to get reasonable flow. Your spa jets should be OK too. If you had a waterfall or another feature that required near capacity flow from the pump, then you may need to change the inlet.

The pump basket lid is likely to have some good sized air pockets. If you have lots of small to medium bubbles and need to purge your filter constantly, then you have an inlet air leak. My experience is they are often the diverter valve shaft seals. I have had success troubleshooting inlet leaks at valve shafts by packing Magic Lube (red label) around the shaft. If you have priming difficulties its really important to find and fix the leak.
I don't think I have leaks in my inlets since I don't need to purge my filter constantly. Probably the air is fine for this size inlet pipes.
I got an IF3 installed recently and ordered the relay board online. It was easy to install and add my booster pump. SWG is next and will be easier.
Anyways, I have air in the top of my pump also, compared to my old Jandy that didn't. But the Pentair is a lot bigger. No air in the lines though or filter pressure relesse. So I don't believe it's an issue.
Yes, I added relay board and connected SWG to it by myself - it's amazing, it's like an automation without external automation. I can control in which program I need to run SWG (at night I don't because it's running at 20% of speed).

Anyway I think the next improvement should be to redo inlets to prolong the pump life and reduce energy consumption.
 
Yeah I'm loving my IF3, I have it running 24/7 at 30 GPM and it only takes around 80 watts. Which for a whole day is less than 1 hour on my old pump. VSP are crazy.

I want to replace my waterfall pump now with VSP just for the energy savings, but we rarely use it.
 
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