Replace AquaPure 1400 w/ same vs. replumb for RJ-60

[Salt_Water_Sam]

Hello, I have a 27k gallon IG gunite pool. The previous owner converted the pool from chlorine to SWCG. They put a Jandy AquaPure 1400 on rated for 40k max. This summer (in Alabama) the control box has been giving me various error codes (123, 194-125) and struggled keeping up with chlorine demand. I have replaced the sensor and power cord but it did not help. I checked the serial number and it started with F14 which I think indicates the year. I think it is time for a new cell which leads me to my question.

It would definitely be simpler to merely purchase a replacement 1400 cell and screw it in. Based on the posts I have read though I wonder if this cell is the proper size for my pool or do I need to go up? I don’t want to purchase the replacement cell and deal with the same problems next summer.

I am looking at the Circupool RJ-60 or 60+. Would this be a good option? Also it looks like the cell is 12.25 “ and the flow switch is 4”. I have about 20 total inches from end to end of unions on my AP 1400. See pic. Could I realistically fit the RJ in this space? Or should I (and is it even possible) to utilize the vertical adapter kit but install it horizontally? Which would be a better option? Any other plumbing ideas welcome.

If only they made an AquaPure 2800......

Thanks so much for your help.

I don’t use the tab feeder pictured. My guess is it was used prior to switching to SWCG.

 

[kimkats]

I would go up to the 60. I am not sure about the questions. Hopefully someone will jump in to help.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Sam,

I too would go with a larger salt system. The Circupool RJ-60 or 60+ has gotten some good reviews here. If I did not have automation, that is the cell that I would personally buy. I would NOT use their SJ series as it makes you keep the salt level too high for my liking.

If this were my pool, I would to get rid of the tab dispenser and plumb in the new cell in a horizontal position. I would keep the cell at least a foot off the ground.

I am also surprised that Jandy does not have a bigger cell.. It only makes sense..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[PoolGate]

Looks like you have lots of room there to replumb. The 1400 is probably fine for your pool and easy to replace with a new cell but now would be the time to upgrade.

 

[Salt_Water_Sam]

Well a picture is worth a thousand words. It took me looking at my own equipment via a picture I uploaded into a forum to realize the amount of space I truly had to replumb if I wanted to go that route. Thank you everyone. Since this post I have subsequently upgraded my single speed pump to a Jandy VS FLOPRO and really liking how I can control the speed through the iQPUMP01 controller. All this to say, it started to get me thinking that maybe I would like to explore full automation one day down the road so I think I may just purchase a replacement cell for my Aquapure 1400 for now rather than replumb. I do like that idea about removing the tab dispenser all together.

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Looks like you have lots of room there to replumb. The 1400 is probably fine for your pool and easy to replace with a new cell but now would be the time to upgrade.

Not to hijack my own post but I see in your signature you have the FusionSoft 1400. How do you like it?

 

[KDpoolguy]

I did plenty of research on the Circupool products and with my size pool (12k), I’d advise the largest RJ model that you can afford and avoid the sizing they use. If you have automation, on TFP it’s advised to stick to the manufacturer’s version, but if not, Circupool is really well liked in my area. As you’ve found, you’ve got plenty of room to maneuver.
A larger unit (Jandy or otherwise), and thus Running the unit at lower capacity will save lifespan of the unit. I never pulled trigger, but it’s a strong possibility I’ll add an SWCG if only to get more family use of the pool—I’m still a OG Chlorine pool believer if I’m honest—and if I do it’ll be a Circupool unit. I’ve got similar issue with output from heater leaving me no room to add the unit horizontal, without head loss for multiple added 90s—wish I had your wrap around space

No need for the tab dispenser and really it’s not difficult to get Schedule 40 PVC pipe, unions and glue cement and rebuild that area with a new swcg on a Sunday. It’s fun! I’ve replaced all my exposed pipes and now i need to paint them, any suggestions on color?

 

[PoolGate]

Well a picture is worth a thousand words. It took me looking at my own equipment via a picture I uploaded into a forum to realize the amount of space I truly had to replumb if I wanted to go that route. Thank you everyone. Since this post I have subsequently upgraded my single speed pump to a Jandy VS FLOPRO and really liking how I can control the speed through the iQPUMP01 controller. All this to say, it started to get me thinking that maybe I would like to explore full automation one day down the road so I think I may just purchase a replacement cell for my Aquapure 1400 for now rather than replumb. I do like that idea about removing the tab dispenser all together.

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Not to hijack my own post but I see in your signature you have the FusionSoft 1400. How do you like it?

I think it pays to get a tier one brand. Mine is "rated" for 40k gallons and my pool is @~30k. I run it right around 50% and even at that it frequently overproduces. Usually my chlorine is up around 7-8 but if I don't watch it it has climbed to 15. It rocks the house on Chlorine production! I do believe it is the exact same internals as the Aquapure 1400 (they are both made by Zodiac). I have never used the mineral cartridge and just leave the blockout plate on that section. Perhaps that fact that the vessel itself is so much larger than the typical inline SWCGs. I highly recommend the Jandy one for now go easy and just replace what you have but if you ever re-plumb consider the FusionSoft!

Also - I noticed you do not have a one-way (check) valve coming out of your heater to the SWCG. You should. From looking at your plumbing, you have more than enough room to re-plumb and add the one-way valve. Chlorine can be very corrosive to heater cores so this prevents any chlorine from backing up into the heater. Just a thought.

 

[Salt_Water_Sam]

Thanks. I may just have to swing by the supply store and pick up some schedule 40 PVC for a nice quiet Sunday at some point. I need to paint mine as well. Mine are all still white. I am thinking I may try to find something that blends the pipes with that heater in the background or maybe a dull brown to blend in with the ground. It actually might not be a bad idea to just spray a couple of different spots on a scrap PVC to get an idea what the different colors will look like on the pipe. I may hold off till the spring when I ultimately decide on what to do with the SWCG and whether I want to replumb.

 

[Salt_Water_Sam]

Thanks PoolGate. I like that the FusionSoft would play well with any future automation plans I have. I'm most likely going to go with the easy route this time and just get a replacement for the AP 1400. Regarding your comment on the check value missing. Is that only a big deal if I use the tablet feeder? I have not been using it all with one reason being the absence of the check value. The previous owner converted the pool from traditional chlorine to SWCG and I am guessing (hoping) that the area where the cell is now used to house the check value. I probably need to just pull the feeder out of there for good (and then paint the pvc of course) but curious if I should have a check valve installed even with the feeder gone. I need to add the heater to my signature. Heck, looking at the picture again now I can see how a truclear cell could be could replumb horizontally and maybe add the valve before that.

 

[mknauss]

There is no need for a check valve between a heater and a SWCG.

The SWCG is to be the last item in the equipment loop before the water returns to the pool.

 

[Salt_Water_Sam]

There is no need for a check valve between a heater and a SWCG.

The SWCG is to be the last item in the equipment loop before the water returns to the pool.

Thanks! Sounds like I can just remove the tablet feeder and not worry about adding a check value then. My plan is to sanatize with bleach (BBB) anyway during the cold season so no reason for the feeder stay on there.

 

[KDpoolguy]

I need to paint mine as well. Mine are all still white. I am thinking I may try to find something that blends the pipes with that heater in the background or maybe a dull brown to blend in with the ground. It actually might not be a bad idea to just spray a couple of different spots on a scrap PVC to get an idea what the different colors will look like on the pipe.

Good idea on color. It’ll help the lifespan on the PVC from UV degradation, and just good landscaping manners. I’m leaning toward the stucco color of the adjoining wall. I got some mixed in a rattle can and just painting it really does look clean and neat compared to the static white and weeping purple primer stains.

 

[mknauss]

Painting PVC is in the pool building code for many municipalities in the west.

Clark county, NV requires it.

 

[KDpoolguy]

City of Irvine:
“Paint all exposed Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) and PVC with a water base synthetic Lucite paint unless piping is labeled UV resistant.”

 

[PoolGate]

Not to get too off track here but is the Charlotte PVC pipe UV resistant? Painting the PVC wasn't even mentioned to me by the plumber is it something I should do?