Replace 3-Prong Pool Motor Outlet

[lplatz]

The outlet (3-Prong) for my pool motor at the bottom on my control panel shorted out and fried the black wire attached to my motherboard. I'm running a AQ-TROL-RJ system. The replacement appears easy, however, I can't find the part number to order a new outlet. Any leads on this part would be much appreciated.

 

[ajw22]

What model pump did you have plugged into that socket?

Check the solder pads to the burnt spade lugs - Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

If you cannot find the replacement outlet you can probably wire up an external outlet placed in an electrical box directly under the Aquatrol.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

or Google search for "panel mount ac receptacle" and compare the dimensions.
How about this one?

 

[lplatz]

What model pump did you have plugged into that socket?

Check the solder pads to the burnt spade lugs - Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

If you cannot find the replacement outlet you can probably wire up an external outlet placed in an electrical box directly under the Aquatrol.

 

[lplatz]

or Google search for "panel mount ac receptacle" and compare the dimensions.
How about this one?

Thanks for the link C0d3Sp4c3. The challenge in finding these items if pursuing cold w/o a product number is what is the general item description. I appreciate your help/lead. This is a great start.

 

[ajw22]

That pump is too powerful at 1.5HP and pulling 15 amps for the Aquatrol circuit. Maximum load on a 15A circuit should be 12A. You will continue to burn out wires and components using that pump on that outlet..

 

[lplatz]

That pump is too powerful at 1.5HP and pulling 15 amps for the Aquatrol circuit. Maximum load on a 15A circuit should be 12A. You will continue to burn out wires and components using that pump on that outlet..

That's good to know (as I repair and move forward). The is a relatively new motor having just replaced it w/in the last two years. I inherited this pool when we purchased our home and the motor previously installed was also a 1.5HP. Can you point me in the right direction w/in the TFP forums on finding a replacement motor, properly sized, that will fit my system?

 

[ajw22]

Give us some clues as to what model pump that motor is connected to.

You probably want a 3/4HP or 1HP motor and will need to downsize the impeller for the reduced motor HP.

 

[lplatz]

I can't seem to catch a break. I just finished repairing my panel mount outlet plug to my pool pump motor. Plugged my control panel in and now all lights are illuminated solid, not blinking. The display is showing only 1/2 the screen. Any ideas or leads?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Reseat the display bd and make sure the contact pins are sitting properly in place.

 

[ajw22]

I just finished repairing my panel mount outlet plug to my pool pump motor.

Where did you find the outlet? Care to share details?

 

[lplatz]

Where did you find the outlet? Care to share details?

Amazon of course . Search: "15A 125V AC Panel Mount Outlet Industrial Plug Female Connectors Adapter With 14AWG Connection line,3 Pins US Power Socket Plug Panel". I had to purchase a 2 pack, but I received it next day, so I don't mind having a backup. It was a perfect fit. To complete the install, I had to purchase some 16-14 AWG female spade connectors (.250) to crimp on the ends for black and white wires and a ring terminal connector for the ground wire.

 

[lplatz]

Reseat the display bd and make sure the contact pins are sitting properly in place.

I completed the reseat. I then replaced the female spade connectors for the gray, violet, white & blue lines coming into the board next to the black & white outlet wires. They had incurred some heat damage, so I decided while I had it torn apart, I'd install new connectors. After finishing that, I tested system again. This time, it cycled through the "no flow" light. After that light went off, I was expecting my Generating light to come on. I usually hear a click w/in 5 to 10 seconds and the Generating light comes on... it did not. I tested the Thermistor for continuity and it passed. I'm beginning to think it's either my display board or motherboard. Hoping someone has some fresh ideas.

 

[ajw22]

Check the solder points on the K1 and K2 relays.

The K1 and K2 relays are the click you hear and control the power to the cell. If the K1 or K2 relay is not working then the cell will not get power to generate.

 

[lplatz]

Check the solder points on the K1 and K2 relays.

The K1 and K2 relays are the click you hear and control the power to the cell. If the K1 or K2 relay is not working then the cell will not get power to generate.

I ran a continuity test across all solder contact on the bottom of the board. Although I don't know the internal relays, my initial thought is both K1 and K2 are good.

 

[ajw22]

Could be a bad thermistor.

From Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

If the thermistor is good, the voltage reading on the display matches the measured voltage from the thermistor lead farthest from the Red terminal on the board as shown. Make sure the Blk test lead is on the Negative side (not Ground) which is the black terminal or to the R15 (.015 Ω) link as shown in the pic.

The thermistor on the SWG is a Negative Temp Coefficient (NTC) thermistor, so resistance will decrease as temp increases. The rating for the thermistor is 2 ohms at room temp (low 70’s F), which is about the reading you should get on a multimeter, give or take a little depending on temp. If it’s wayyy off, it’s bad. If it’s close, proceed.

The next test is, while holding the two leads of the multimeter on the legs of the thermistor, apply a heat source (hair dryer, heat gun, etc.) for a few moments. The resistance reading should begin to drop as the heat source is applied. If not, it’s bad.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

This time, it cycled through the "no flow" light. After that light went off, I was expecting my Generating light to come on. I usually hear a click w/in 5 to 10 seconds and the Generating light comes on... it did not. I tested the Thermistor for continuity and it passed. I'm beginning to think it's either my display board or motherboard. Hoping someone has some fresh ideas.

Is your pump running? Can you post the diagnostic readings?
Can't remember if the 'No Flow' blinks on a RJ during the initial start-up. But the 'Click' sound you are referring to will happen exactly 10 seconds after the 'Generating' LED has turned on.
Let's hope that this is not another AL-5 issue!

 

[Darin]

Here is an amazon link.

Amazon.com

You should be able to find these at about any hardware store.

 

[lplatz]

Is your pump running? Can you post the diagnostic readings?
Can't remember if the 'No Flow' blinks on a RJ during the initial start-up. But the 'Click' sound you are referring to will happen exactly 10 seconds after the 'Generating' LED has turned on.
Let's hope that this is not another AL-5 issue!

Unfortunately, no diagnostic readings are available via the display. Are there other diagnostic readings I can get via a multi-meter? It is my experience with my panel that as soon as the "no flow" goes out, the "generation" light comes on and the familiar click occurs after 10 seconds. That's my confirmation that the T-Cell is generating. What is the "AL-5 issue"?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Unfortunately, no diagnostic readings are available via the display. Are there other diagnostic readings I can get via a multi-meter? It is my experience with my panel that as soon as the "no flow" goes out, the "generation" light comes on and the familiar click occurs after 10 seconds. That's my confirmation that the T-Cell is generating. What is the "AL-5 issue"?

Product ID getting stuck in AL-5 instead of the correct AL-7 in the diagnostics. Tell tale sign that EEPROM data is corrupted presumably caused by voltage spike or lightning. But you need to get the display bd going to confirm. Maybe you have a bad disp bd.