Thoughts on the best way to remove this? They didn’t leave me much to work with on the left side. Or should I just cut the black part out and cap the threaded ports?
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
Remove Clear O3 manifold.
- Thread starter TXTyphoon
- Start date
- May 27, 2021
- 1,359
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Why not just cap the check valve or unscrew the check valve out of the Venturi and cap it there?
- May 23, 2015
- 25,766
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Go get a PVC socket saver and you can cut out that manifold as-marked and then use the socket saver to drill out the PVC. Then just replace with an appropriate length of straight pipe.
TxT,
Why do you need to do anything other than shut off the ozone and cap the feed into the black venturi pipe?
What is it that you are trying got accomplish by replacing the whole pipe?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Why do you need to do anything other than shut off the ozone and cap the feed into the black venturi pipe?
What is it that you are trying got accomplish by replacing the whole pipe?
Thanks,
Jim R.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,766
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Texas pool, puck feeder visible in the plumbing, and ozone … I’m going to guess the OP would rather switch to an SWG and ditch all the “low chlorine + ozone” silliness … but that’s just my speculation …
Matt,
If he just wants to add a SWCG in place of the Ozone "thing" that would be easy, as a SWCG has unions...
Jim R.
If he just wants to add a SWCG in place of the Ozone "thing" that would be easy, as a SWCG has unions...
Jim R.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,766
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There may not be enough “meat” on the left side of the plumbing to glue a union to.
Matt,
Looks like enough room to me, but if not, then your Socket saver idea would work for sure.
Jim R.
Looks like enough room to me, but if not, then your Socket saver idea would work for sure.
Jim R.
After cutting it out there will probably be about an inch left to glue a union on, it’s probably enough, I was just looking for some validation. I think I’ll try that and use the socket saver as a backup plan. They run from $30-$60 so for one use not sure it’s worth it unless truly needed.
As far as capping it where the rubber hose comes out, I’m doing that now just on the other end. I’m not sure what this manifold really does other than create quite the vacuum via that r black section. Train for removing it is to reduce what I perceive as a bottle neck in the flow. Needed, I don’t know.
Yes, it’s a Texas pool and a SWCG is under consideration. I’ve got another thread on the issues I’ve got with the pool, primarily super high CYA from years of trichlor tabs and not knowing better. So it’s getting drained soon to fix that. This looks like a great spot for a SWCG.
Brian
Brian,
It looks like if you just cut the black venturi tube out and capped both ends, the water would just flow through the pipe that bypasses venturi now.??
Granted, I have no clue what that brown part of the pipe is. Do you know what it is?
I would not put the union right at the cut pipe on the left. I would add a coupler then a pipe, then the union. In other words, I'd center any cell between the two cuts.
Thanks,
Jim R.
It looks like if you just cut the black venturi tube out and capped both ends, the water would just flow through the pipe that bypasses venturi now.??
Granted, I have no clue what that brown part of the pipe is. Do you know what it is?
I would not put the union right at the cut pipe on the left. I would add a coupler then a pipe, then the union. In other words, I'd center any cell between the two cuts.
Thanks,
Jim R.
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