Regional differences


Gold Supporter
Sep 15, 2018
Seminole, FL
I've noticed that living in west central Florida I don't have some of the same concerns that may be common in other TFP members' areas, and have things we need to deal with that others may not. The main difference is long hot days and RAIN, and lots of it, which leads to draining and dilution of some chemicals.
1) CYA: I have to add periodically throughout the summer, due to long hot days and draining.
2) Cal-hypo vs liquid chlorine: when I have to add chlorine for some reason (we have an SWCG, so this isn't often) cal-hypo is fine. Like my CYA, my calcium levels drop over time, and I actually need the calcium boost that the cal-hypo provides.
Folks with in dry areas with high calcium levels in fill water will need to watch to ensure that CH levels don't get too high, and don't worry about loss of CYA.
What does TFP look like for you, where you live?


LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
My issues are completely different. Desert climate, hard fill water with very high calcium and high TA. Extreme evaporation rate. If I didn’t have an auto fill, my pool would lose up to 15 inches of water in a month. Within a year all the water would evaporate (over 100 in. per yr.) That means that my already high calcium level will double in less than a year. To help combat that I have my auto fill on a water softener.

Using a SWG for chlorine means constantly rising pH, so a lot of MA to control that. At the beginning of the season I use the ”acid and aeration“ method to lower my TA. I also have added 50 ppm of borate, both to help stabilize the pH.

The net result of high CH, high TA, and rising pH is I have to constantly monitor the CSI. If/when the CH gets too high (I’ve had it in the 1500 range) it’s time to drain, refill and start over. If you don’t watch CSI you end up with calcium scale all over the pool surface, or worse, damage to the plaster surface and tile grout. Pool chemistry here can often be like walking a tightrope.


Well-known member
Apr 21, 2020
Apex, NC
It's pretty darn easy here in NC. For the first time ever, I didn't need to add any water to the pool during the season. I don't get enough rain where water needs to be removed but enough to keep it full. I only recall two pH adjustments the whole summer. Generally, CYA and TA stays steady.


Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Nov 12, 2017
Central California
Pool Size
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Almost identical to chiefwej, above, but without the TA issue. Instead, I deal with ocean air cooling off the whole area at night. That makes for a nice climate, and less need for AC, but the pool loses at least 10° every night. I chose to use a solar heater rather than covering the pool. The temp swings can make for a windy afternoon, which sometimes can be less than ideal when trying to enjoy the pool late in the day, but other times make a hot day more tolerable while in the shade.


Bronze Supporter
This year I've had an ongoing issue with pH rising, but I control it with dry acid. I know, I know, sulfites, but MA scares the pants off me. I think the underlying cause has to do with my TA.

Usually, though, it's maintaining the upper level of FC for my CYA, getting the pH and TA locked in at the beginning of the year, and testing every third day. Once I get it balanced, I just add 2 c 6% chlorine (all I've been able to find this year) and run the pump 4 hrs. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

I usually have to SLAM once or twice a season -- this year was different because I was out of commission for most of it, and had to depend on others to do upkeep on the pool (DH and son), neither of whom are as invested in the pool as I am! I had THREE SLAMS this year! THREE!!! I probably wouldn't have had but one if I could have continued my maintenance routine myself!! </rant over>

So that's how TFP works in Bremen, GA!
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