Red Green salt light

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Bottlecapr

Bottlecapr

Member
May 2, 2020
24
Indianapoiis, Indiana
New to pool And Intellichlor IC40. Acid washed cell before I did anything. (1 part acid 5 parts water) Installed and when running it would red-green-re-green etc....salt. All 5 lights on 100 % on. That’s all.
I checked salt using test strips twice in a 3 day period and both showed 5.8 which is 3750 ppm. After reading here and YouTubeing ?. I cut green wire and spiced red and black coming from unit together( not sensor switch. ). Now just red salt light and still all 5 percentages light on. I’ve ran the life process and 1 light tells me 20% life and 80% left. Ive ordered a replacement flow sensor from PoolGuy Supply and it will be delivered this Monday. Do you think this will correct my issues. I thought cutting and splicing would bypass sensor and let me know if it was in fact bad, but not so good yet?
I’m my worse enemy because I like to tinker and hands on figure things out. Not this time. I’m searching for some advice.
 
B,

The basic concept is to understand how the unit works and why you would cut any wire. :poke:

When the unit is first powered up, the red/green railroad crossing like flashing lights are normal for up to about 5 minutes while the unit tries to calibrate the salt level. If they do not stop flashing something is wrong and it is not because the salt level is too high or too low..

How long did they flash?

If you have a red no flow light, the salt test will never work.

Cutting the green wire removes the thermistor inside the flow switch assembly from the circuit, which makes the cell "think" the water temp is 77 degrees.

By splicing the red and black wires coming from the cell itself you have made the cell "think" the flow switch is closed. With the red and black wires spliced together the flow light on the cell should be green.. If it is still red, then the cell has to be bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
B,

The basic concept is to understand how the unit works and why you would cut any wire. :poke:

When the unit is first powered up, the red/green railroad crossing like flashing lights are normal for up to about 5 minutes while the unit tries to calibrate the salt level. If they do not stop flashing something is wrong and it is not because the salt level is too high or too low..

How long did they flash?

If you have a red no flow light, the salt test will never work.

Cutting the green wire removes the thermistor inside the flow switch assembly from the circuit, which makes the cell "think" the water temp is 77 degrees.

By splicing the red and black wires coming from the cell itself you have made the cell "think" the flow switch is closed. With the red and black wires spliced together the flow light on the cell should be green.. If it is still red, then the cell has to be bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
ok. No other lights have ever came on. When I start it red Green railroad light for about 5 min along with all 5 percentage lights on solid. After that.... red salt light and all 5 percentage lights on solid.
 
I have none. If you have all the wiring back in place and those are the only lights showing, your cell is dead.
 
B,

How old is the cell???

If you have the flow switch shorted, and the green flow light is not on, the cell has to be bad.. It could just be a bad led, but there is nothing you can do about it.

Jim R.
 

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Correct. The % lights will flash if in the 2-10% range and go solid when you are in the 20-100% range.
 
B,

I just bought a new one for one of my rent house pools... I bought it from.. where else, Amazon.. I did not know the option existed, but they have a pay over time at zero interest. Divides the payment over five or six months..

That cell was about 7 years old and had a flashing cell light. The usage display was 100% so used up.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
B,

I just bought a new one for one of my rent house pools... I bought it from.. where else, Amazon.. I did not know the option existed, but they have a pay over time at zero interest. Divides the payment over five or six months..

That cell was about 7 years old and had a flashing cell light. The usage display was 100% so used up.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Yes Jim, but your cell was used up 100%. This one just shows 20% usage. I will look at date tomorrow when I Flip it over. Maybe it’s older than I think. when I bought this house last fall all correct lights were on and green. Removed it for the winter and hasn’t worked since.
 
B,

Before I bought a new cell I would clip the green wire between the flow switch and the cell. This will disconnect the thermistor inside the Flow switch assembly, forcing the cell to think the water temp is 77 degrees. If this fixes your salt problem, then you need a new flow switch..

Thank,

Jim R.
 
I recieved my new flow sensor and installed it today just for shi#$ and giggles. Same lights not working etc..so now Ihave a spare flow sensor for parts? I also checked the date of manufacturing on bottom while I was messing with it. It was new in 01/2016 so 3 years is not bad I guess. I know the previous owner didn’t take proper care of it. Anyway, I ordered new cell today. Supposed to be delivered Thursday. Thanks for all your help guys!! I appreciate everything.
 
I suspect the previous owner did not control pH and thus acid washed the cell many times. It should have lasted a lot longer than that.

Keep your CSI between -0.3 and 0 and you should never have to acid wash the cell.
 
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